| Author | Message | ||
     Blublak |
As I understand it, the 1125's come with the same Ethyl-Glycol that the V-Rod uses. While that's great for street use, I'm planning on doing some track days and already this is a problem (one I've not had to worry about before), How does one drain and flush the system? There's no information in the owners manual and so far the Service folks at my dealer (with the 'draft' service manual) can't help. Is there anyone that can chime in .. Annony? Hello? And give me a little help so that come middle of next month, I can pass tech and not end up sitting in the pits watching everyone else ride while I sit with Ethyl in my bike instead of Polly? Thanks in advance to any that have the answer.. | ||
| Interex2050 |
From what I remember the pump is the lowest point in the system... It is off to the side between the base of the cylinders, I think the right side. There should be a drain plug toward the bottom. Make sure you have a place to drain the fluid and make channels out of foil if need be, then unscrew it. The fluid will begin to "dribble". Then undo the cap on the radiator and the fluid will start really coming out. After it has all drained out tilt the bike side to side a little to get the rest out. Drain the reservoir by taking off the tube at the bottom. Now that the system is "empty", just reinstall the drain plug if need be replace the gasket/washer/o-ring at the plug. Reconnect the tube to the bottom of the reservoir. Fill with fluid of choice via the radiator cap, also make sure to fill the reservoir to the full mark. Start the bike and let it warm up a bit (not too much), you want the thermostat to open. Then open the cap very slowly, and top off if needed. After a full warm up/cool down cycle check the reservoir and top if off if need be. That should be it. | ||
| Interex2050 |
About the drain plug location... It should be at the lowest point in the cooling system... It could also be at the base of one (or both) of the radiators. | ||
| Smoke |
underneath the waterpump housing on the right side is the oil pressure switch. i ended up pulling the hose off of the right hand radiator to drain it. replaced hose, added water, ran bike for circulation, repeated proicedure and then added more water with water wetter. never found a drain plug. i also disconnected the overflow bottle and dumped it out. tim | ||
| Brad1445 |
I have heard the older you get it may become more difficult to drain the radiators. In fact you may make several trips during the night for this very purpose. | ||
| Slypiranna |
...when I signed up here I was asked for my vin# but was too far away to go out and read it then so I left that field blank. Did any of you posting here put your new and beloved 1125's in? Read }}Warranty void. Just a thought. I am trying to maintain patience for the entire service manuals.....but to really flush the system for the brave at heart, disconnect the coolant intake from the pump and flood with a water hose and flush the system from a cold start until nothing but clear is at the other end...that is after draining all you can in an environmentally safe container...this should only take a couple of minutes at most as there is a small bleed in every thermostat...and it will not get even close up to temp with the constant cold influx. Cap and refill adding your favorite wetting agent, then clean up the wet mess you just made around you and most likely, on you  | ||
| Interex2050 |
Now I am curious as to the exact procedure for draining... There must be a drain plug somewhere... right? | ||
| Xb9 |
I've seen some where you drain the coolant by taking the lower bolt out of the water pump housing. Nothing yet in the service manual drafts that are available - I was looking for it. | ||
| Interex2050 |
That would be clever... Kill two birds with one stone. | ||
| Red_raven |
Lowest bolt on the water is the drain, confirmed last night. Replaced the stock coolant (ethylene glycol) with Engine Ice (poly glycol) and so far it seems the engine is running at lower operating temp than usual. Flushed entire system with distilled water 3 times before putting in Engine Ice. Watch the torque on the aluminum bolt at the drain. Applied glycol resistant RTV sealant (like Locktite 574) at the drain bolt before putting it back for good. Topped off radiators with coolant, filled overflow tank up to cold fill line, started bike until the fans ran for a bit, let it cool, checked the level again, topped it off and let it cool for the night. Checked level again this morning and topped it off again in both radiator fill and overflow bottle. Takes a few cycles to get the coolant flowing evenly in both radiators, I guess. The coolant shoots straight for the water pump initially, so always be on the ready with a wide drain pan. The whole drain procedure is very similar to the Aprilia's Mille/Tuono Rotax... | ||
| Xb9 |
98 in-lbs (11 Nm) on the water pump - coolant drain bolt. | ||
| Ccryder |
No holes to drill but, a very specific bleeding process is required: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/465095.html |
