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Baggermike
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 11:24 am: | 
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Hi Bratman about a half inch but I have not adjusted the suspension at all, I figured like the motor it need to be broken in plus it is cold here so I been riding under 45 degrees so the oil would be thicker and another reason not to adjust the suspension, I do like the suspension feels but in Boston Mass we have bad roads and have read Buell sets the bike up for 160 pound riders and that leads me to think I will need springs, I also am getting a suspension book and hopefully go to racing school and learn to ride better and safer on and off the roads and also will learn about suspensions adjustments and how it effects handling, also the track is in New Hampshire which is not a nice smooth track because of are winters, I had asked a guy who races up there when I had the ulysses and asked about a bike racing with six inches of travel and what his opinion on using that amount of travel on the track and was told that would probably be good because the track is not smooth, at the time I was thinking of turning the ulysses into a track bike and then the 1125R came out and I drag raced the ulysses and did two runs and went home because it was not a rush that I thought it would be. I did come to a point after my ulysses oil pump broke and as I waited for it to be fixed which took two month, and yes they lost my business, I wanted a bike that had much more power, the new 08 ulysses is so much better and I figured my son would want the ulysses I have and I would get the new one and then make it perform and added up the cost and was way to much money to do what I wanted so my brain said custom ulysses and my wallet said 1125R and my wallet always wins, and I am glad it did this bike is awesome and has even more potential locked up inside so this bike is a keeper and I will slowly build it better as I get extra money. I found online machine shop and piping and trying to figure out why you uses a t instead of an elbo for the top of your bars? I am trying to think of a way to have adjustable bars or maybe make a couple and change them out, I do find the stock bars good which surprised me and find the bike comfortable on long rides this surprised me to, an excellent bike. Mike |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 03:31 pm: |
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Thanks Bratman how much did they charge for the work and parts? I wanted to email them but they have not any email address. Mike |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 01:58 am: |
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Bratman can you tell me were you got the elbows from I just spent an hour looking and can not find them. Hope you can help. Mike |
Bratmanrider
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 08:45 pm: |
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Baggermike,
The reason for the T at the top is so I can have the end cap with the slot for matching up the handle bar end. I have a button head screw on the end of the T. Look at my pictures for the risers and you'll see what I mean. I picked up the elbows from a machine shop. I will find out some info for you on that. |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 09:13 pm: |
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Thanks Bratman there is an online machine shop and I can download soft wear to build things but would think elbows should be easy to find and can not, so I would appreciate your help, and I can weld and find the tubing with different id's. I see you used solid bar do you like the way it feels or should I say less vibrations in the bars? if I can get elbows I am all set and ready to design a couple of different bars to see which I like best and like the fact you can always go back to stock. Mike |
Bratmanrider
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 08:36 pm: |
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Baggermike,
You wrote:
Thanks Bratman there is an online machine shop and I can download soft wear to build things but would think elbows should be easy to find and can not, so I would appreciate your help, and I can weld and find the tubing with different id's. I see you used solid bar do you like the way it feels or should I say less vibrations in the bars? if I can get elbows I am all set and ready to design a couple of different bars to see which I like best and like the fact you can always go back to stock. Mike
Reply: I have a couple of elbows and T's.
I used solid bar for strength in all the joints and the insert into the top triple clamp. Notice the raised key way for inserting into the top triple clamp and the button head bolts to hold them in place.
Refer to this link:http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/gallery/4241070_Eb tkv#248151940 |
Bratmanrider
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 09:05 pm: |
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Baggermike,
I have welded on the tips for the muffler.
That thing was a pig off the bike! It weighed in at almost 25lbs. Here is a few pictures of the finished product.
http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/gallery/4370619_4V QVx#256610400 |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 09:53 pm: |
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Thanks Bratman I studied you bars and did notice that it had a grove and you used solid bar for it, I can get stainless steal tubing in the right thickness I need so I can install Dark Horse bar ends with a throttle lock they are coming out with and I know know what I need and been in contact with a machine shop to do my design so thanks for the help it got me going in the right direction. the one thing you might want to think about using bar stock if you go down it might break your top clamp, read something about that from some were. Mike |
Bratmanrider
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 11:36 am: |
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Baggermike,
What do you mean about bar stock? I'm not following you on that one. Do you mean not to use it for fear of breaking the top clamp? If so ,isn't the stock handle bar capable of doing the same thing in the stock position? I'm needing some more info from you. Thanks. |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 20, 2008 - 02:48 pm: |
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Bratman I sent Zack a privet message, also I read on a handlebar website that thick tubing will break the top mount if you go down, I found a place to get all my stainless steel tubing in any thickness so if the bar will bend it will not break the top clamp but if the bar is to thick or solid and you go down it will break the top clamp, I will have to see if I can find that info again, they said there bars would bend and prevent this from happening, I can get a 5' length tubing for 75 dollars and going to have some elbows made for me, I just could not find them any were so I gave up and I am having 8 made to my specs and then I will have to take it to be tig welded. Mike |
Bratmanrider
| | Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:58 am: |
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Baggermike,
I see what you mean now. I hope the stock handlebar that I'm using in my risers will break off instead of the top clamp. Since this is what Buell is using I'm sure that's why it's a hollow tube. Thanks for the info. |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 01:22 pm: |
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I do not want to see that happen to a group of good guys on these forums so any info I have I share, so your welcome, that would suck to break off the triple tree clamp when you can get a bar for like 25 dollars. I also are trying to do the same think but with 45 degree elbows but have not found what I am looking for and working on finding or having them made for me. The bike is coming along nice since I got it back and will be posting pictures soon but will not have the handlebars done for a couple of month. Mike |
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