| Author | Message | ||
     Sportyeric |
The old pinion gear slid off the shaft without any effort or need for a puller. The new one went on about 1/16" and stopped. I'm thinking I should either heat it with a torch to remove it then bake in the oven. Or just heat it with the torch and keep pushing it on. I assume that I shouldn't tap it on for fear of side loading the main bearings, yes? (Besides, it will probably need to be able to rotate to line up with the keyway if I missed by a hair. If I should heat it in the oven, is there a maximum temperture before it loses temper? | ||
| Reepicheep |
2000 M2, it just slipped right off (and on). Is the gear binding on the shaft? Or just the key? | ||
| Sportyeric |
Its binding on the shaft. I heated it briefly in the oven but not to the point of being too hot to handle with bare hands. But now its stuck slightly on. I'll be purchasing a gear puller today (which I should have in the tool box anyway. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Hmmm. Rather belatedly, I checked the new cams and they seem to bind a bit at one point. The teeth on these cams are bigger than on my old S1 cams. Is a certain amount of tightness expected? They were an eBay purchase and came with a brand new cam cover. They are tight in both the new cover and my old one. Just at one point. I remember that stock Sportster cams came in a variety of sizes to reduce noise but I thought that the N4 type just had one size and I expected would be a little loose. I might just throw the old cams back in. (They're both the same grind but the old ones have 70000 miles on them. I was going to put them in the Buell for a while until it qualifies for the complete bottom up rebuild that the Sporty is getting.) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Aaron was a big help to me with this when I had a pitted exhaust cam. You can search the knowledge vault for some discussion on the topic, lots of good stuff came out. On my 2000 M2, which is all I can keep straight, here is what I remember. The cams are color coded, I forgot all the colors, but mine were black. I think you can cheat one color to the loose side, but not to the tight side. Those are sportster cams. In 1999 versus 2000, one of the cams was different, I think the gear pair between the crank and the cam. But in 2000, I think they only sell the cams as a set of four, and I only needed one. So I could buy the 1999 cam, provided was not the one that was really different. Aaron also indicated he could press off the gear that was different from the cam and make the 99 cams work (reusing the gear of your original cam). The X1 cams were "high contact ratio" or something like that. It removed the need for custom sizing, but made for a lot noisier cams. And of course thats a much more aggressive cam. So thats the stock cam side of the equation... and in that old thread somebody posted the color codes and which were bigger. I would bet the N4 cams are like the lightning cams, and not color coded / size coded... just because I am sure Andrews doesn't want to have to deal with lots of sizes and colors. But I don't know if they will work with *every* case. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Thanks Reep. I'll search the archives tonight. But to clarify. I thought that the S1 lightning cams were one size fits all. That's what I had in my Sporty for the last 70000 miles. The gears have a fine tooth on them. The new cams I am trying to fit are X1 cams with the high-contact design. I believe they also are one size fits all. However, they do have a colour-coding on them, which puzzles me. I'm wondering about "wearing them in" with lapping compound. I seem to remember seeing that written somewhere but I'd want to ask a pro before I do. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You know more about it then I do then! Let us know what you find out. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Looking at them again, maybe they do have the same tooth size as the old ones. Is it just the pinion gear and #2 that's different. I'll have to look closer. But the pinion gear on shaft question remains. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Found the answer about the high-contact teeth in the archives. Can't see anything about cams binding. I'll ask at a local shop but I hate buying on eBay then asking for free advice at a local shop. There's a benefit to having a good rapport with the locals. The new cams are colour coded green on 1 and 3, white on two and four. (Message edited by Sportyeric on February 12, 2008) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Have you dropped Andrews a line or checked their web site? It might provide a quick answer. (I'm curious too but short on time..) Brad | ||
| Road_thing |
buying on eBay then asking for free advice at a local shop The owner of my local independent shop cured me of that--I bought something, then asked him a question about it. He said, "Why don't you call the eBay tech help line on that one?" Ouch! That cured me... rt | ||
| Sportyeric |
The situation seems to have resolved itself. As I did show and tell at work with them they got looser. The shop that did my bottom end were very obliging and deemed them fine. Said that a minimal tightness in one spot would wear itself gone in a few turns of the engine. I reckon it was just some minute burring at the edge of the teeth. Haven't had time at home to fight with the pinion gear but it might also be burring at the keyway. The mechanic suggested I try sliding it on backwards to see how far it goes. And reading the FSM for removal procedures, I see that the pinion gear removal requires a gear puller. So I shouldn't be surprised if it takes a little to get it on. Although I know I didn't need one to get the old one off. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I might add that the cams were a smoking deal because they were listed as "cam cover and gear set." Didn't show up on a search for "cams" so bidders were few and the price was great. |
