| Author | Message | ||
     Jc000 |
I have a 2002 M2 with the Pro Series header and muffler installed. This morning as I started the bike it was quite cold (15ยบ F) and I could see the steam exit the exhaust. I could also see it coming out from in front of the muffler where it connects to the header. Is this something serious to be concerned about? I'm not noticing any problems with running it and I'm not sure if that would be considered "normal". I'm guessing leaks of any kind are bad, though. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Not a big deal, but can lead to more exhaust popping. The best way to not get it is to put the muffler onto the header with high temp permatex, and fill the slots prior to putting on the clamp. And then don't start it for 24 hours so that the stuff dries in the slot. IF you start it, you'll just blow it out of the slots. AL | ||
| Jc000 |
Thanks Al, by "slots" you mean the tabs in the front of the muffler? Also seeing as how I've been running this for a few hundred miles, should I clean the carbon off of the parts before using the permatex stuff? And by permatex do you mean the copper spray? http://permatex.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/pr oducts_id/42287/80697 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
No, the Permatex he's referring to is a red high temp silicone. Just slather it on, assemble the pipe and muffler then wipe any exposed "red stuff" off with a rag before it starts to cure. Once cured, it's much harder to remove... | ||
| Jc000 |
Of course that's the permatex I don't have. Ah well, off to the hardware store. Thx for the help. | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Jc000, I have my Vance & Hines muffler apart right now to repack it (Thanks Al), should I use the permatex to seal the end cap before I put it back on? If so, how difficult will it make it to get back off in the future? Thanks | ||
| Djkaplan |
The endcap was the only seam I didn't seal when I modified (shortened) and repacked my V&H. I never noticed a leak there. If you ever take the front inlet pipe out, make damn sure you seal this area and the surfaces below the rivets with high temp sealer... or you'll have to take the whole thing apart again... like I did. | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Thanks Dan. How much did you shorten your V&H by? Newbie question, but why did you shorten it? Sound, ground clearance, weight, or all of the above? | ||
| Djkaplan |
I took 2 1/8" out of the entire length, cut off the front inlet elbow and got the stub expanded so the V&H would work with the race kit header (I also had to offset the rear mounting holes 1/2" inward on the rear Z-mount to keep everything lined up). The muffler that comes with the race kit exhaust is HEAVY and has a reputation for shaking itself and the front mounting shoe apart even with the updated Y-mount. I never put the V&H or the race muffler on a scale, but there was a significant differnence in the weight. The race can is stainless steel and fat, the V&H is aluminum and thin with a steel core. No problems with the modded V&H so far... | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Still being a newbie, I can't get over how ambitious and creative some of you guys are with your mods. I sweated bullets the first time I changed the oil on my bike. This muffler repack is the most ambitious thing I have done so far and I'm just hoping to re-install it without buggering anything up. Post a Pic of the revised V&H if you get a chance. I'd really like to see how it looks. Thanks | ||
| Bad_karma |
Here are some photographs of the repack on the Two & Brothers can.The tube in the center need a little needle nose plier application but it was straight forward. The masking tape made it easy to get the inner assembly in the can. Good luck and enjoy the sound. Joe          | ||
| Reepicheep |
I hear you Newbuellertoo! When I first got my M2, and tried to change the primary fluid, I had the infamous "cocked derby cover and stripped torx head". I think I stressed more about that then I did about rebuilding my transmission two years later! Tubers... a great bike, and a great hobby  | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Bad_karma. I noticed you took both end caps off. It this required or just easier? The V&H has allen key fasteners, not rivets, so it is no big deal to open it up completely. Djkaplan I guess you removed both ends as you modified the inlet side. Just to be safe, I will probably use some sealer on it. | ||
| Djkaplan |
"I had the infamous "cocked derby cover and stripped torx head". Ah, yes, a right of passage it seems with tuber owners. So is blowing the cap off the oil bag when you've fooled yourself into overfilling it. | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
You guys scare me sometimes!  | ||
| Bad_karma |
Gary It was easier for me. Gave me a chance to look things over. I also put some sealant on the end caps, It was starting to get blow by on a couple rivets. Joe (Message edited by bad_karma on February 15, 2008) | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Thanks Joe, Did you use the Permatex that was mentioned earlier in this post? | ||
| Bombardier |
Using the sealant will also stop the rivets wearing the muffler and the holes they go into by stopping them from vibrating loose. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I did the same modification to a V&H that Daniel did. Mine was for my S2. Bad, I hope you didn't put sealer on both ends, if you did your going to have a fun time removing the rear to repack it next time. Don't ask how I know... Brad | ||
| Bad_karma |
Gary Yes I did use the sealer mentioned above. So far no leaks, sound is better and the decel back firing is gone. Joe |
