Author |
Message |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 04:52 pm: |
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I am not sure if my 1125r front brake is working to its potential. It is significantly "softer" than my XB with new pads. I am not sure if this is by design. The 1125r front brake is supposed to be a significantly better system than the older 6-pot XB version. At this point I don't feel that the front brake on my 1125r is much stronger than the XBs, although I haven't really put it to a full blown test. There is a large bubble in the brake fluid window-several times larger than the one in the clutch window. Could this be the problem? Can you guys try to help me figure out if this is the normal feel before I drag the bike to the dealer..thanks |
Vincent
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 05:01 pm: |
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There is no bubble in my sight glass and my brake feels just fine. Sounds like you have a leak somewhere and its introducing air into the system which is more than likely where your soft/spongy feeling is coming from or it may not have been serviced right when you got it. Try bleeding it. |
Baggermike
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 07:54 pm: |
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There is a trick to get air out in the lines use a zip tie and pull the brake lever in as hard as you can and use the zip tie to hold it there and overnight the air will work its way up through the line, you can do this with the clutch to, once a week I do it. Mike |
Slypiranna
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 09:11 pm: |
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Try bleeding the brakes...1st with the master's cap off, bar end to wall near vertical and by gravity method...2nd with full master and cap on by applying full lever pressure, have a helper slowly crack the bleeder and you, the one pulling the lever, fully empty this cycle...but do not let go until your helper closes the bleeder valve. Do this three times and refill...you should have all the air outta that stopper. By the way, it's the best front or only brake that I have ever had once prepped right to ride. Good luck. |
Wahoo
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 09:49 pm: |
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I think both brakes are awesome, the first few times I used the front it wasn't too impressive. How many miles are on the bike? |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 09:55 pm: |
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Around 800 miles so far. At risk of showing my mechanical ignorance, Baggermike--can you tell me how the air leaves the system with pressure applied overnight? Isn't it a sealed system. Just checked my XB brake window and no air bubbles at all there. |
Baggermike
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 10:11 pm: |
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I seen this trick on a tv bike show, think it might have been American thunder, and it works, so maybe the air is right up there and when you release the lever it comes right out, all I know is that I have done this and the next day the brake feel real good. Mike |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 10:17 pm: |
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Hmmmmm Mike, I suppose it won't hurt anything... |
Baggermike
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 11:26 pm: |
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Makes a good parking brake to if you have double sides velcro just squeeze the brake lever and wrap the velcro around the lever and then you have a parking brake, also the rear brake can be done this way to, so you can pull the rear brake lever down and use a zip tie to hold it also but a little harder to do. Mike |
Starter
| Posted on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 11:32 pm: |
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The zip tied lever does work sometimes but not as consistant as flushing/sucking a 1/2 bottle of fluid through using a syringe. One unexplained trend I have replicated many times is curing a spongy lever by solely removing the front wheel and retracting the pistons back into the caliper. Upon refitting the wheel and pumpng the pistons back out the lever is usually hard as a rock. Maybe some of the tiny bubbles get forced back to the reservoir????????? dunno but alot of techs swear by it as well. |
Baggermike
| Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 12:07 pm: |
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Starter I will have to try that, I also think that some air stays in the caliper when the oil line is under the pistons level, so the only way to get that out is bleed the brakes or compress the pads and I will try to compress the pads also, someone said that the line is closed at the master cylinder and did not know how holding the brake lever in would work, but if you compress the pads the oil comes, so if the lever is in the air can get out or when you release the lever the air will come out, if you do the squeeze the pad method the top reservoir can or will overflow so be care full if you do this. Mike |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 12:45 pm: |
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Usually if I do the overnight lever trick, I loosen the cap on the reservoir. Not enough to let dirt in, but enough to open the seal and allow the air bubbles to reach the surface of the fluid. I also +1 on the caliper removal/squeeze trick. Can't explain it, but it does always work. |
Baggermike
| Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 01:40 pm: |
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Ratbuell I think we should be able to make a tool to slide in between the rotor and caliper pad to squeeze the pads out without removing the caliper? I now will loosed my cap just to be extra sure the air gets out. Mike |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 11:19 pm: |
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I usually unbolt the caliper from the fork, and give it a twist or 2 against the rotor. The pads themselves will lever the pistons back into the caliper, giving plenty of room. Pull the slide pins and the pads practically fall out. I've caused less damage that way than by using the ol' standby, the screwdriver between pad and rotor |
Slypiranna
| Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 12:04 am: |
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Now I'm just curious...has this guy just tried bleeding the brakes? I mean JUST bleeding the brakes?}} |