| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
I know this has been posted before, but my first ride today on a production bike (the test mules didn't have mirrors at Inside Pass) really made me realize the mirrors are pretty worthless, at least for my broad-shouldered frame. Maybe if we're nice, we can talk Al into making some stalk-lengthener-spacers to get them out a little further  Once I adjusted the shifter peg for my size 13 gunboat, I still love everything else about the bike. And I love the style of the mirrors, I just wish they were spread wider, or mounted further forward and down on the fairing, to give a better view. The way this thing pulls, I want to know the *instant* the red-n-blues come on back there, LOL. | ||
| Baggermike |
Try putting one thick washer on the mirror stud closest to the rear of the bike, this helped me to adjust the mirror to my liking, I think the mirrors are designed for fast riding in the tucked in position which they work great for. Mike | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Zac, what was your conclusion on the mirror vibes? Did an anything work to your satisfaction? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I had limited success by putting foam behind the mirror. The hard part is finding the right foam and the right amount. The mirrors come apart by boiling the assembly in water for about 15 minutes to soften the mirror adhesive. Then carefully peel the mirror off. Re-dip in boiling water if it takes too long. The screw that holds it all together is under the glass. I found a light, tight closed cell foam worked best. Liberal slicing with a razor blade to fit. The LEDs should fare OK as they're sealed. You can also try to stuff foam under the glass carrier while it's assembled, but this didn't work so well for me. I had the best success with a foam strip around the edge of the shell, but it was a butt-ugly fix. They still vibrate because the whole magnesium frame jitters. Had an idea there to put a turnbuckle across the tips and tighten slightly to stress the members to kill vibes there, but haven't physically tried it yet. The largest part of the vibes seems to be the glass in the shell, then the whole shell vibrates some too with the fairing frame. I don't think we'll ever have a really clear rear view. Z | ||
| Thruster |
I have an 08 Uly and found the mirrors vibe less when I'm going faster, with higher revs. Maybe you guys are still not going fast enough? Anyway, I too had a lousy view when upright and going slow, which got much better when I re-adjusted the mirrors for a much more forward-leaning position, which of course is only justified when, again, going fast. Perhaps these bikes are not really designed to go slow at all... I wonder if floating the mirror on foam would work even better if backing the glass of the mirror with some ballast, like a lead plate. Al, if you're listening, the standoffs suggested above might also serve a vibration-dampening purpose -- just a thought. For you guys experimenting with the mirrors, keep in mind the phenomenon of resonance, which tends to amplify the shaking as a particular vibrational frequency is maintained. The whole mirror assembly may be fixed by adding some flexibility/rigidity/ballast/damping characteristics to key points in the overall subassembly, and seeing how it behaves at various sustained RPM's. If you're really a geek, you can mount accelerometers on the mirrors and stalks, attach them to some data acquisition gear, and put the bike on a dyno... For me, just watching for a blurry red/blue glow in the mirrors every now and then suffices, but that's just me. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Not a resonance issue that I've seen. There is a contribution from the engine vibration, but the majority of the vibration is road coupled. I like the idea of adding ballast to the glass carrier, maybe some stick-on tire weights... I am waiting for a new right side mirror, when it comes in, I'll try dismantling it and adding foam to the shell and weights to the back of the glass carrier. Might give turnbuckle stressing a try after that. Zack | ||
| Ratbuell |
I didn't notice a vibration much when I was riding; I tend to keep it above 3500 most of the time though. I had a nice, clear view of my shoulders and arms and a tiny sliver of the lane next to me  | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Ratbuell, I raised my mirrors up and out with spacers between the fairing and frame mount at the mirror brackets. It was a big help over the stock location. The vibration wasn't as noticeable. I have a link to some pictures of my upgrades to the 1125R. Check it out. http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/gallery/4266413_tm rsK#249833826 | ||
| Zac4mac |
That's some nice stuff Steven. I like the spacers and the screen. Spacers also raise the windscreen? Very nice. Think I'll copy that if you don't mind. Zack | ||
| Ratbuell |
Bratman: Very nice mods! Do you have a pic of the exterior of the fairing with the spacers installed? Does it change the angle of the headlights, or the relationship between them and the fairing? Very nice, very clean. I like | ||
| Dtx |
Bratman, I like the exhaust tips. Very cool! | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Ratbuell,Zac4mac, On the spacers raising the windscreen, yes by about inch and a half. It doesn't effect the headlights at all. That part of the fairing is secured in another spot. There is enough flex in the plastic at the mirrors and windscreen. I'll take a picture of the exterior and post it as soon as I get the bike back from the Dealer.It's getting the exhaust muffler changed to the California muffler since they sold it with the 49 state muffler.Then I can add my muffler turn out tips. Factor demanded the swap or they would void the warranty.The Bums! | ||
| Ccryder |
Bratman: Nice work! I have a few questions: A) Are the handle bars hollow and what is their ID? B) Whose brake and clutch lines did you use and what were their part numbers? C)What does the lower fairing mount spacer look like? TIA Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
I also would like to know Bratman if you made the handlebars or bought them, and if you bought them were did you, also how much longer are the cables compared to stock. Mike | ||
| Zac4mac |
Neil - C) No lower spacer, the fairing "stretches" up. A)Yes, O.D. = .875", I.D. = .750" B) ?? Zack | ||
| Ccryder |
Zack: Thx. Are the XBr bars the same 0.750" ID? Thx,again Neil S. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Neil - not sure about that, don't have an XB anymore to check. I found a little extra room on the bars, moved my grips inboard about a half inch. I think it will help my hands stay warm better, by being more inside the slipstream. Now, I'll have to turn bar-ends from Stainless so it matches. Z | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Ccryder,Baggermike, Here is a link to my pictures on the risers I made for the 1125R.Made from stainless elbows and tees that are 1"O.D. by .870 ID. Solid stainless machined inserts are TIG WELDED to the elbows and tees. The stock handle bars are inserted into the risers. Brake and clutch lines custom ordered from Galfer. The lines are 1.5 inches longer than stock. The wire harness are at their limits. Throttle cables were relocated to reach. http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/gallery/4241070_Eb tkv#248151844 | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Bratman, I know Al from American sport bike is making a top clamp that will do the same but this is adjustable and can be changed easily back to stock, now I have two options if I decide to change my bars. Mike | ||
| Baggermike |
Just curios Bratman what is the stud or post that coming out of your triple tree stem for, I used something like what you have to mount my gps to, I had to raise it up so I could get the key in the lock. Mike | ||
| Baggermike |
Zack did you try the hand guards from powermadd, I was going to do that but decided in bar weights with the throttle lock so those will not work on the bike, I did get triple digit gloves from www.motorcyclecloseouts.com which would make your gloves wind and rain proof and were only 10 dollars and they had some nice prices on Gloves to. Mike | ||
| Zac4mac |
Mike - no, haven't tried any handguards, because I don't think there's enough room. Hoping that the half inch I moved the grips in will help in the cold. Z | ||
| Baggermike |
Zack when I get my bike back I will see if they fit and how they look on the bike, I have the saddlebags and waiting for the tail bag which will be here before the bike will, some guys wanted to see how the bike looks with bags and how I mounted the gps, so if they fit I will take pictures of them on the bike with the bags and post them on hear, I think someone should start a thread for pictures if not I will when I get pictures of my bike. Mike | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Baggermike, That post in the center of the triple tree is the end of a long drift that connects to my front lift to raise the bike of the ground. I have the forks off and it supports the bike. In the back I use a stand I made to support the muffler to take the rear shock off. Look at my pictures on this link. http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/gallery/4210188_qa hRz#246131150 | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Zac4mac, If your looking for some heated hand stuff, try this link on heated hand wraps. Great stuff! http://www.lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm#hotha nds | ||
| Rich |
Nice work! It's great to see the things that different riders come up with. | ||
| Baggermike |
Bratman what are you doing to the bike, it looks like you are tearing it down for a rebuild, also you should start a thread for pictures and post all your pictures and progress you are making, some guys are interested in its sport touring abilities and I think I got some nice saddlebags and tail bag and have my gps mounted on a motorcross mount that is for 1/2" crossbar and locks and I put it on a threaded rod with a spacer so I can get the key in and will post pictures when I am done, I also am looking for a way to have adjustable handlebars and found a machinist website that you can design parts and they will build it, so the gears in my head are turning. Mike | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Baggermike, I took the suspension off and had a guy put a heavier spring on the rear shock and re-valve everything. I wasn't getting full travel on the front suspension due to oil level and damping was off on both ends. Here is a link to all my pictures and it will keep you up to date on anything I change. http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/ | ||
| Baggermike |
Bratman how much do you weigh I weigh 220 and have bottomed out the rear and almost the front I have a zip tie on the front to measure travel but hit a pot hole and felt the rear bottom out, I have not made any adjustments yet waiting to May when the suspension is broken in and will do a oil change and whatever the settings tell me it needs, who did you buy springs from? I did not think anyone has aftermarket parts for this bike yet. I have seen pvc pipe used in some spring kits as spacers and you can adjust the springs a little by using them but make sure it is the heavy wall pvc. Thanks for the info Bratman. Mike | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Baggermike, I weigh in at about 210 with gear on. With the zip tie on the front end ,how far are you from bottoming out? Mine was an inch and a half away. Boykin Suspension did my suspension. He lowered the fork oil and re-valved the front forks. My springs were just on the edge of being to soft. The rear shock got re-valved and a heavier spring. The stock spring was at 585lbs. spring force increased to about 650lbs. Check with Boykin Suspension : http://www.boykinsuspension.com/about_us_main.html |
