Author |
Message |
Hooliganpilot
| Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2002 - 07:02 pm: |
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I have a 00 M2 w/ wanna be Banke but is Buell shifter. Anyway, I've never liked it. It shifts rough, stiff and inconsistently. I am now locked out of 5th gear. When in 4th going into 5th I simply can't go up. There is no play at all. As well, I consistently misshift from 1st to 2nd when riding on the gas. It feels like it's going between neutral and 2nd and I end up reving the beast and sounding/looking like a typical moron. Does anywone have any suggestion. |
Buellzebub
| Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2002 - 08:36 pm: |
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check your primary chain tension first, then your clutch adjustment. see if that helps. |
S3dave
| Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2002 - 09:19 pm: |
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The clip holding the shifter detent plate on my 2000 S3 has fallen off twice now, makes for wonky shifting as well. easy fix and there is and updated shifter plate that can be installed. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, June 07, 2002 - 08:37 am: |
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Dave... doesn't the 2000 already have the updated detent plate? I got one, had the primary cover off, and THEN bothered to look closely at my service manual (2000 M2)... Note number 1: Changes for the 2000 model year include an updated shifter detent plate. Insert homer simpson DOOH! here. Fortunately I was able to save the gasket, and gave everything a good inspection and cleaning, and replaced the shifter seal anyway, so it was not a total waste of time. The updated primary chain tensioner is working great. |
Shot_Gun
| Posted on Friday, June 07, 2002 - 11:01 am: |
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The shift shaft has adjustments inside. There are two lock nut if they are loose or if something bent it could be out of adjustment. The tech manual tells you how to adjust it. I used a small pair of vise grips(note: I'd only due this as a last resort as it boogers the shaft) |
S3dave
| Posted on Friday, June 07, 2002 - 12:01 pm: |
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I'm not sure if all 2000's got it or if it came later. Mine is an early 2000 and it has the old engine temp sensor location while some 2000's had the new one. As far as the detent plate goes I am not sure?? |
Blue02m2
| Posted on Monday, June 27, 2005 - 09:32 am: |
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Fear about new vs. old tensioner in a 2002 M2 - lots of scary reading. I'm about to do the 15k service on primary fluid and chain tension ( the dealership did it until 10K ). I fished around in the KV and saw lots of REALLY scary stuff about tensioner plates failing and folks swapping out to updated ones. I was not going to go to the trouble of pulling my Primary cover but .... 1 - Should I? Do I have the new tensioner? Should I look anyway? I have the occasional hard to shift thing happen but I'd chalked that up to Harley character. 2 - the service manual says to lift the rear wheel off of the ground and rotate the chain while checking for tension. I also saw someone mentioning that pulling the plugs to eliminate compression was a good idea. Then is it just a matter of putting it in 1st and manually turning the rear wheel with the clutch engaged to spin the chain? |
Matty
| Posted on Monday, June 27, 2005 - 12:24 pm: |
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Anything after '00 will have the thicker primary adjuster. To check the chain tension, you can: a. Pull the plugs, get the rear tire off the ground, and put the bike in fifth gear. It's much easier to spin the tire in fifth -or- b. keep the bike in neutral, pull the plug wires and tap the starter button to spin the chain. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 27, 2005 - 01:11 pm: |
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A steel rod (like rebar) through the rear axle, and two cheap jack stands, make it easy to get the rear off the ground. Don't even need to jack it, just lean it on one and lift up the jackstand on the other a notch at a time. It's easy. That being said, I always just hold a paper towel over the inspection cover hole and blip the starter. The 02's had most of the problems resolved, they were well on their way to being a nicely sorted bike. So on an 02, I would leave the primary cover there unless I had evidence something was wrong. I *would* strongly recommend dropping the oil pump and getting a good look at that drive gear though. Just do it on the next oil change, it is not a hard job. You will need a new oil pump gasket, and some teflon tape, and a few cable ties. Tweaking your low speed carb jet and air fuel mixture screw (instructions in the knowledge vault) will make a big difference in how the bike runs also, especially given the $15 and 45 minutes aspects of the job. Your high speed jet is probably already slightly rich, which is the right place to error on if you don't have a dyno handy. |
Blue02m2
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 09:13 am: |
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Thanks Matty! Thanks Reepicheep! I'll switch the lubricant, tension the chain, and continue putting a couple of hundred miles/day on the thing until the next oil change. I also saw some stuff about new/better primary gaskets? I've seen few M2's ( including the 2 that I've owned) without a little leakage here. How does one obtain a list of these? If I walk up to the parts counter, I'm pretty sure I will wind up getting the origional gasket from a friendly but somewhat confused HD purist. Is there a badweb sponsor who wants to sell me something better that might not leak like the factory gasket? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 11:08 am: |
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Just ask for the metal primary cover gasket, and don't take it if they come back with a cardboard one. The "James" brand gasket is a metal one, but I don't know if dealers will still stock it now, I think the factory part is now metal. |
Matty
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 01:11 pm: |
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The metal gasket is the superceding part. More than likely, if the dealer still has has both, they will offer you a choice. Otherwise they will sell through the existing stock of paper gaskets, and then sell the new coated metal type. If they are any good, entering the old part number on the computer will inform them that there is a superceding part available, so it's really a no-brainer for them...but, we all have our dealer stories =) The price difference is a little shocking at first, but you can use the metal gasket a couple times before it starts getting weepy. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 01:26 pm: |
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From what I've heard, the old paper gaskets were to be destroyed when the dealers got the new metal type. |
Jonsbuell
| Posted on Friday, August 05, 2005 - 01:22 pm: |
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What do you run in primary for fluid can redline shockproof hd be used? I hate the shifting on this bike is the new shift det plate worth the money have updated shifter just alot of effort to shift not the best feature on this bike (y2k cyclone) Thanx J.B. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, September 14, 2006 - 09:33 pm: |
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So what is the answer to Hooligan Pilots question - I have a simular thing happening on my Blast. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Blake
| Posted on Friday, September 15, 2006 - 12:27 am: |
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He never did get back to us on the issue. Try PMing him and let us know. Could be a loose nut, shifter fork(s), or a few other things. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 11:09 pm: |
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Did full clutch adjustment from in inspection cover to in the ferrule - quick test run - a few miles - seems ok again - will affirm after more miles - GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 07:17 pm: |
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Well - it worked - I'm back to normal - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
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