| Author | Message | |||
     Captainkirk |
I've ordered my repacking kit from Al at American Sport Bike for my M2 race muffler. Two questions, for those who might know.... 1) Which end is best to remove? Or doesn't it matter? 2) Is the baffle tube supposed to be a slip-fit on the end cap tubes (rattly-loose!) or are there welds/fasteners, etc that are probably broken? The tube is intact when viewed from either end with a flashlight, yet sounds like a bucket of bolts when I shake the can. | |||
| Sloppy |
From your description it sounds like your talking about the non-IDS race muffler... SAFETY NOTE: FIBERGLASS IS NASTY TO THE LUNGS SO WEAR A BASIC DUST MASK. 1. Next time go to your local bike shop and buy 4-stroke dirt bike muffler packing. Works just as well. 2. Buy ALUMINUM rivets at your local hardware store (not sure of size, but match appropriately). Trust me... 3. While you're at the hardware store you NEED TO BUY A DRILL BIT THAT WILL CUT STAINLESS RIVETS. Cobalt, I believe, will do it. A drill press is extremely handy, but not necessary. 4. Open the discharge end, the elbow gives you extra leverage to remove. You may need a plastic hammer to encourage it. 5. Baffle is slip fit and is your best indicator to let you know when it's time to re-pack. When it rattles, it's time. It's easy to pull out. 6. You're going to roll the packing along the baffle tube (VERY TIGHTLY) and tape it down with masking tape. Then insert into the muffler. Line up the baffle with a little finesse and long screwdriver and re-rivet. 7. Some people like to line the end cap with high temp RTV (the red stuff). If you do, let it dry before you put it on your bike to protect your lambda sensor. 8. MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE WITH ALUMINUM RIVETS -- unless you like to curse. It wouldn't surprise me if they use a pnuematic riveter at the factory... 9. When you start your bike back up, start it up outside to watch the clouds of fiberglass. | |||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
The packing from American Sport Bike is well worth it, I have done 2 race mufflers with it .. the instructions that arrive with the packing will tell you which end (I'd tell you but I don't remember)- it will also come with the required drill bit and rivets to refasten. The only thing I will warn you of is make sure when you drill out the rivets you clean the holes up of any burs, if there are any on the ID of the can, it can tear the cover of the packing, this packing is very good - TONS of glass packed on this tube - a lot more than you could fit by wrapping it yourself, if it comes free of the covering, you will have a hell of a time getting it in. | |||
| Xldevil |
My two Euros: I use rockwool meant for stoves to repack my Pro Series muffler.Paid cents for enough stuff to get through the next century.Wrapped it with fine wire around the inner tube.Works very good and long lasting.10k Kilometers so fare. Ralph (Message edited by xldevil on January 12, 2008) | |||
| Knickers |
If you're using AL rivets, keep an eye on them periodically. Vibration combined with a stainless cannister will cut though them over time and you'll see empty rivet holes. | |||
| Captainkirk |
-------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ If you're using AL rivets, keep an eye on them periodically. Vibration combined with a stainless cannister will cut though them over time and you'll see empty rivet holes. .......Which is why I wanted the kit with the replacement rivets....... | |||
| Xldevil |
I use ordinary rivets from the German kind of Homedepot-Bauhaus.Never lost any. What´s so special with the rivets you recommend? Ralph | |||
| Captainkirk |
The rivets that come with the American Sport Bike kit are steel. The rivets you get from most hardware outlets are aluminum with a steel shank. This makes them real easy to drill out....but also real easy for a stainless steel can/cap combo to shear through them under vibration | |||
| Sloppy |
FWIW, the original stainless rivets also get sheared... And I'd completely disagree that it's real easy for the can / cap combo to shear. Of all the 25 odd AL rivets on an end cap, I might loose 2 of them over ~ 7000 miles -- which is about how long the packing lasts. I've been using this method for the past 3 rebuilds and I've NEVER had any problems (nor do I know of anyone) with an end cap shearing... 3 problems with s.s. rivets -- hard to drill out, hard to install and hard to find. Plus you need a special bit and plenty of force to remove (a potential safety issue if you don't use a drill press). If you're not sure, I'd recommend that you TRY the aluminum rivets. If you don't like them you can always EASILY drill them out and install your s.s. rivets. And if you do like them, then you know that you can get all the parts for a re-pak locally. | |||
| Djkaplan |
SAFETY NOTE: FIBERGLASS IS NASTY TO THE LUNGS SO WEAR A BASIC DUST MASK. This is the reason why I like the repack kit from American Sport Bike. It isn't made out of the fiberglass that looks like cotton candy; it's long and stringy (not sure what it is, really) and doesn't create the particles that float around in the air like insulation fiberglass does. You won't need gloves with the American Sport Bike kit. Just for this reason, I'd use it again. It's been two years (about 15,000 miles)} since my last repack and everything seems OK so far. | |||
| Sloppy |
Perhaps the kit has an improved packing to it? 'Cause the first time I repacked it was with the "kit", and there was very fine particulates of f-glass when I restarted. If so, I'm glad they improved it. But when I use FMF brand packing (my local favorite) there was no dust -- they use a very dense mat carpet / roll of packing. Of course, it's the dust that you don't see that is probably bad for you...  Try whatever method that works best for you -- there are a lot of options available. | |||
| Captainkirk |
And now, for the dirty, ugly truth of the matter.......
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| Ratbuell |
Has anyone ever "updated" their riveted race can with screws? I'm thinking about inspecting the insides of my (just acquired) muffler, but I'd bet some screws with green loctite would make it much easier in the future. Maybe some stainless 10/24 allen heads would work? Or is the material too thin and wouldn't hold the threads? | |||
| Sloppy |
Rat I looked at using tack/glue/rivet nuts on the can and use screws. I wouldn't use self tap screws as when they pop out (hello Murphy?), they are in a position to penetrate the rear tire. But once I swapped to al. rivets the process became a "non-issue" for me -- so I dropped the project. Kirk: Nice write up -- it sounds like you had the "muffler from hell". I've found the outlet to be easier to work on than the front. Also, I wouldn't recommend Latex for any solvent -- MEK is nasty stuff. I'd use Nitrile gloves. Good points on that if you have a drill press and cobalt bits, you can keep the SS rivets. However, you better have a long handled riveter... as difficult SS is to drill, they are just as difficult to rivet. | |||
| Captainkirk |
Rat; the can thickness is .065 Stainless. It might be able to be threaded, but even with LocTite this isn't a lot of thread material. Plus, the tapped area would just re-create the burrs you just removed. Even a machine screw could puncture a tire. I wouldn't advise it. Plus, there's the added potential of the screw threads corroding and being a mess to drill out. Just my opinion, of course. Sloppy; you're right about the nitrile. I had to go through several pair. Actually, I think it was not all that bad..I just tend to be a perfectionist and wanted it right, not quick & dirty. Yes, the rivets were a bit of a fight to pull, but I got it done none the less for wear. I guess my major beef was that they tend to blow it off as a piece of cake. It was quite a bit more, but I'm very happy with the product as well as the results. | |||
| Captainkirk |
Update: The muffler sounds GREAT..it's lost that irritating "bark", just enough to make it a joy to ride again! And NO MORE "DEATH RATTLE"!!! It did have an annoying habit of blowing 2-foot strings of fiberglass hanging out the tailpipe; they were sort of embarrassing at stoplights, but stopped after the first 20 miles or so. I'm really happy with the kit from American Sport Bike and will definitely buy another when it's time!} |
The Truth About Repacking