| Author | Message | ||
     Cataract2 |
Well, this question goes back to the RPM and speed question. Was wondering what your RPMs are at 55-60 mph in 6th gear. Was reading the breakin for the first 300 miles is to keep the RPM below 6000. Well, when I buy the 1125R I will need to ride it home taking hwys. So.... | ||
| Garrett2 |
you wont be close to 6k in 6th gear at 80mph | ||
| Frankpgh |
Try and stay of the highway for the break-in period. Take the back roads and vary the speed. That's my 2 cents worth anyway. Frank | ||
| Xnoahx |
You can vary speed on the freeway, just roll the throttle off for a second then roll it back on. Clutch in or out. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I belive that 6K in 6th gear is well into the 90s--maybe even in the low 100s. You will be fine as far as being able to keep up with traffic--unlike the XB  . I haven't been on the freeway much so the speed is just a ballpark. | ||
| Baggermike |
Cataract2, I had the same question and the first 50 miles is the most important in breaking in a motor so do not ride it home on the hyway. I had my bike delivered for 100 dollars and I live in Boston Mass and bought the bike in Maine so that was a 230 mile trip and they had to pay tolls to. I would go on the S&S website and see what the recommend for break in, also I read on other websites to ride it hard but do not lug the motor and gradually bring up the rpms as you put on the miles, also allow the motor to be fully warmed up before riding. I read on the S&S website to start the bike and get it warmed up and then shut it off and let it cool down and do this four times, I read els were to ride like 15 minutes and shut the bike off and allow it to cool down, I did this method. You need to use the gear box allot and up shifting and down shifting in the first 3 gears, you can not do this on the hyway. I also read that after 50 miles to change the oil and filter because the metal particles will overwhelm the oil filter and cause the oil to bypass the filter and then you are running it like you have no filter. I strongly recommend to go on line and read all you can, and do not ride it home on the hyway, change the oil after 50 miles and do not use synthetic oil, you need regular oil to break it in, and this is what I did and change the oil at 50 miles, then 200, 500, 1000, and at 1000 I switch to synthetic oil now. So I strongly recommend researching this on the web, and then decide how to break it in to what you think is the best way after reading lots of the different ways people say to do it. Mike | ||
| Garrett2 |
i know its been discussed - but if it wasnt good to break in with synthetic then i doubt buell wouldve put it inthe bikes. also - my dealer knows buells really well and didnt say anything about not riding the highway home. my dad also bought a bike there (crossroads in NC) and rode it home on the highway. about 20k+ miles later she still runs great. ive got 105 miles on mine, mostly stayed under 6k and varied speed by rolling on and off the throttle on the highway in 4, 5, and 6th. | ||
| Dalton_gang |
6th gear @ 4k rpm is 65mph. 6th gear @ 6k rpm is 99mph. Do what you are comfortable with as far as the break in procedures / methods. I`m running mine in a little on the hard side of what is recommended. I`m constantly pushing it up to 6k rpm with frequent slips up to 6.5k rpm and occasional slips to 7k rpm. I was very "nice" to it for the first 50 miles for what it`s worth. Now that I`m past the 300 mile mark I can wring it out a little more and try to keep it under 8k rpm. I`m sitting with 20 degree temps outside wishing that I was instead riding in 60 degree temps. Oh well at least I can rely on the BadWeB to keep me entertained. (Message edited by dalton_gang on January 18, 2008) | ||
| Ducxl |
I think Bagger Mike has break-in pretty much down to a science. Avoid synthetic: I've got new rings/Pistons on my Duc but i'll use Mobil-1 anyway. Do not lug/vary RPM's: I believe these two things go to "seating the rings" A few years ago when the first Ducati 998 came out there was a mysterious malady where,serious combustion pressure was making it's way past the rings and creating enough crankcase pressure to force most of the wet sump oil out the vent and causing massive spills into the airbox vent. It was found that the rings weren't seating.They had used synthetic from the factory and the rings couldn't wear in. Some engines got new cylinder/piston assemblies. One fix though,that worked was to take the bike out and beat/rev the snot out of it thus allowing the rings to seat.This actually DID fix a few of the bikes affected. So, all i'm saying is, part of break-in goes to seating the rings.Synthetic oil CAN hamper this task | ||
| Darkice19 |
I use the cheapest crappiest oil i can find for a break in. Seats the rings great. No way would i ever use synthetic oil till the bike is fully broke in. And i use the cheapest because it gets dumped at the first 50 then again at 200 then again at 600 hen again at 1000. Give or take a few miles because its hard to stop the bike and get off. And dont be afraid to push the limits while breaking it in. Oh ya and during the first 50 miles the worst thing you can do is just keeping it the same speed on the interstate. | ||
| Igneroid |
When I was a kid, my dad had a freind named Tony Reicher. He was from Germany and was an avid motocyclist who had raced at The Isle OF Mann(where the hell isssat??) Anyhow, when I bought a new bike as a 16 yearold and was concerned about breakin procedure, he said "Heat is your enemy during break in. Take it to the redline if you want but make sure it dont get too hot. Short bursts in other words was OK by him. Long periods of time at the same RPM wasnt good according to Tony. I used his philosophy on all of my new bikes since and havent had a problem. THey were all air cooled so mebey theres a difference there. When I purchased a brand new Peterbilt in 1995 with a 500 hp Cummins, I run it like I stole it from day one and sold that puppy with 14000 hours on it 10 years later with out a head ever being off it. I think manufacturers and engineers have it figured prettywell these days and while its probably good to practise a little caution while your bike is new, I think they will probably all break in just fine. Compared to years ago, motors nowadays are pretty high zoot and tougher than a Lepers life story.... | ||
| Frequency |
I broke my cityX in WOT http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm | ||
| Ponti1 |
What kills me is that this is still a topic based on personal experiences and opinion. Why the hell has nobody actually done a formal study and published results? I'm all for following the best possible procedure, but am not about to read something on the internet and blindly follow it as fact without supporting real-world evidence... | ||
| Metalstorm |
All we need is one very wealth individual who can buy two identical Buells and break one in by the book method and one by the ride it like you stole it method. After 5K miles, tear them apart and document results. Any very wealthy individuals on this board feel up to the task?  | ||
| Smoke |
i used a combo method. accelerate-decelerate to mfr recommended rpms at recommended miles,no steady throttle at all. 1st heat cycle- 50miles, 2nd heat cycle- 100 miles, 3rd heat cycle- 100 miles or more. change oil early-150 miles, 500-700 miles, 1500-2000miles, then every 3000. feels like i have good power on the 1125. 6000rpm,6th gear, 99mph not tucked.i will have to remove the tank bag to tuck in. tim | ||
| Cataract2 |
Ok, I didn't want this to turn into a debate. As for how I break in my bikes. I broke my XB9SX in by the manufacture method. Bike now has 41,600 miles on it with no problems. I will do the same with the 1125R. | ||
| Joey |
Frequency has the link to the best information I've found so far. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Sorry, but I find that site to be full of s***. | ||
| Buellnick |
Follow the manual...and do one more thing that is not mentioned in the manual...HEAT CYCLES. Introduce as many as possible! After 600 miles and the first oil change, ride it like you stole it. | ||
| Ccryder |
Ryan: My 04' ST1300 has 80,000+ miles and the dealer ran a compression check late this summer. All 4 cylinders were within 1.5% of each other. The SM said he didn't believe the reading so he had the Tech do it again, with the same results. My point, this bike was broken in just as suggested by Motoman. Is it dumb luck, it's Honda (what do you expect), or he might have some good ideas. You could break in the 1125r as he suggests and not even void the break in rpms, much less the warranty. Just my $0.02 and my 3rd experience with using Motoman's suggestions (the other two were a 00' X1 and a 96' S2T that I had rebuilt) The X1 was sold with 34,000+ hard miles and ran very well. The S2T had 10,000 miles on that engine before I sold her (wish I still had her she was a TORQUE MONSTER!!!  ) Time2Roll Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
How you treat the bike will effect performance, I bought a old single cylinder from my friend, would smoke for ten minutes when I started it, I cut the muffler off and beat the shit out of it, it stopped smoking and a month later he asked to take it for a ride, he came back and asked me how much did it cost to rebuild the motor, I told him all I did was beat the shit out of it. I believe in after every ride on your way home run it hard and it will always run good and strong, I also agree with motormans method. | ||
| Frankpgh |
A more detailed 2 cents worth. I remember reading somewhere that the rings are the key to a successful break in. This means both hard acceleration and hard deceleration within the RPM recommended by the manufacturer. You need to put a load on the pistons both during the down stroke (power) and the up stroke (closed throttle.) This will seat the rings. The heat cycles (preferably under zero load aid, the bearings in seating to their journals. The manufacture probably has done enough heat cycles that this shouldn't be a problem. Frank | ||
| Zac4mac |
The first 3-400 miles on mine were mostly on the freeway. Nothing steady for more than a minute, lots of 60-100-60s. Hard on, hard off. 1500 miles and full o'pep. Z | ||
| Ccryder |
Frank: That is what Moto Man's break-in is. Just like what Z did, 60-100-60. Just don't do it with anybody too close to you. You could probably drop down to 5th or even 4th and do the same 4,000rpm to 6,000rpm cycles. I guess I did about 3-4 cycles like that and then cruised for about 5 mins and repeated. I changed my oil at 100 miles and it was BLACK! My Dealer was real confused when I came back ~2 hours after picking up the bike for an oil change. The Tech had heard of the Moto Man break-in and was impressed with the amount of contamination in just 100 miles. I rode back home on the 2 lane, another 100 miles (varying the speed), and changed the oil again. I was a lot cleaner than the 1st change. I read into that fact that I was not getting as much ring blow-by. My ST at 5,000 mile oil changes, still shows the oil as a dark brown, not black as I have seen in other bikes. Time4Lunch Neil S. | ||
| Dalton_gang |
It seems like in the old days you had to be nice for a while to get the cam and lifters broke in. Then you had to be mean to it to get the rings to seat and to push the "ridge" up as high as you could in the iron cylinders. Now with nickisil coated cylinders, hyperujunkit pistons, roller everything, and synthetic oils, etc it seems that the rules have changed. At least for the more modern stuff. I`m all for running the piss out of it but not before a short time to let all the major components get nice and comfy. Also I do believe in heat cycling but mainly on high compression and 2 stroke engines. Usually breaking in an engine creates high oil and coolant temps. I havent seen mine above 170 deg yet.(I assume that the gage is correct) So I guess that mine is doing just fine. |
