| Author | Message | ||
     Jc000 |
I'm going to be installing my race header and muffler on my 2002 M2. I have the recall kit with the safety cable, the installation instructions, as well as the normal parts and service manuals. This will be my first time ever working on my exhaust system. I will be performing the install under the eye of a mechanically inclined Harley-owning friend. The Buell race intake is already installed on the bike. Anything out of the ordinary I should be expecting or doing to make this install a success? Any tips/tricks? | ||
| Bad_karma |
Jon Pretty straight forward. Just pay attention to torque on the exhaust ports. Joe | ||
| Jc000 |
Just pay attention to torque on the exhaust ports Meaning the bolts on the brackets where the header attaches to the cylinder? Thanks, Joe | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Assemble everthing loosely as an assembly. Get it so there is NO stress on any of the fasteners or attachment points. Then gradually tighten everything up snug, then torque to final spec's. No NOT over tighten the cylinder studs, very bad things happen when you do. The "pink" sound you hear if you do is the sound of a MAJOR PITA to replace a broken stud... Use High Temp red silicone on the header/muffler joint. This helps prevent air leaks and backfiring on decel. Brad | ||
| Blake |
The last thing to tighten should be the header/collector to muffler connection, and before you do tighten it, ensure that it is not in any kind of bind. You can check that it isn't binding by inserting header/collector fully into the muffler's mating inlet and then observing its orientation before attaching and tightening it at its front and rear mounting points. In its most relaxed unbinding position (supporting the weight of the muffler at the back end), it should be located at or very near it's ultimate mounted orientation/position. If not, then work on the mounting and/or muffler inlet until you get it in proper position. You may need to work the headers too. It can go like cake or be a tough install, but it is fairly straight forward. You can do it no problem. Just be patient and you'll be rewarded with a long-lived and reliable exhaust system. | ||
| Jc000 |
Good stuff, thanks! | ||
| Jc000 |
The install went well, in that everything seemed to align and fit well and I did not break the cylinder studs. Also, the recall safety cable really eases my mind, it looks very secure. Only concern is that I rode it back from my friend's, about 35 miles, and in that time a) the header turned a light gold color and b) the header was SEVERELY tarnished back by the rear cylinder port. The bike 'seemed' to run fine. Is this tarnishing something I should be concerned about at this time? | ||
| Bad_karma |
Jon Glad to here that it went well. I believe the colour change is normal unless they are hpc/ceramic coated. The rear pipe on my S3 is baked hard. Maybe you are a tad leaner than you should be. Joe | ||
| Djkaplan |
A couple of minutes with Mother's metal polish gets the 'blueing' (the heat tarnish) off pretty easily. If you take the heat shield off, it makes it much easier to get at the rear primary. It takes a few minutes, but it really works. I do this every few months and it seems to keep the bluing from forming longer every time. | ||
| Jc000 |
I was wondering DJ, how your race header still had the stainless look! I actually think the blueing is kind of cool looking, but mostly I was concerned that it was the result of some problem with the install. It looks like from what you and Bad karma are saying, it's likely not. My bike so filthy now, I really need to do an overall clean and polish. Then maybe I can get some pics up finally. |
