| Author | Message | ||
     Baggermike |
Thanks guys, I will work on the bike today and hopefully get that info, I also was thinking of a better battery just because of all the gear I use. Happy New Years to all you guys. Mike | ||
| Ducxl |
It's not so much the battery in your most recent post Mike but the charging system's ability to replenish the battery.Think AMPS | ||
| Spatten1 |
Good luck Mike! Zac's voltage number are probably better than mine. Been doing investment banking for the last 10 years instead of wrenching and I'm sure my memory is not so great. Either way, voltage should surge when the bike is running and revved a little, compared to when it is just sitting. Have a great New Year. | ||
| Baggermike |
getting out the manual right now to see what I can find out and compare to the ulysses, I notice a big difference when using my heated gear, on the ulysses my fingers get hot and I got to turn them on and off, but last night it was not cold but the cloves did not feel that warm, if it is normal for this bike to be this way I will learn to deal with it, I still am very happy with this bike and if I freeze riding then I will grin and bear it. Mike | ||
| Baggermike |
OK I read the owners manual and could not find a way to read charging output so I went to my bike and toggle it, and could not find a voltage meter, I also have had the engine light come on a couple of times which I forgot to mention and look at the problem it says on the led screen, so I might have a real problem, also why is the engine check light shaped like a car engine and not a vtwin? I will now call the shop. Mike | ||
| Zac4mac |
Mike, make sure you push hard on the buttons. Listen for them to click. You'll know when it works. Normally the display starts scrolling as soon as you turn on the switch. When you have both switches pushed, the display immediately says "DIAG MODE". When you release the Mode and Toggle buttons it will say VIEW CODES. PRESS THE "MODE" button and the display will say EDIT<well shit I don't know what it'll say, but I'm guessing each time you press toggle it will give you a trouble code. Write it/them down and post back>EDIT, press again for LIVE DATA, then BATTERY VOLTAGE. I just checked mine, and because the low beams are on, it showed 11.9 up in the top right of the display. This is good, that you get a load - the lights - on the battery. A good battery drops a little with a load(tenths of volts), a bad one drops a lot(volts). Then, I hit the starter and got her running and the display showed 13.6 to 14.4 as I revved it a little. Static and running tests show a good battery and a good charging system. Good luck and Happy New Year Zack (Message edited by zac4mac on December 31, 2007) | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Zack I hooked up my gps and did not have the lights on much, now it is on the charger and is red, this leads me to think it might be battery proublem, and if it remains red for a couple of hours then I would say it is the battery, so I will be cheching the lights all night. I will try tomarow what you said to do, then I will know which it is the charging system or the battery, thanks Zack and happy new years to you. Mike | ||
| Zac4mac |
'Kin A Mike Happy New Year Z | ||
| Rocketman |
also why is the engine check light shaped like a car engine and not a vtwin? I believe this is because a 'check engine' light which is the shape of a car engine, is a recognised industry standard. Such helps for example when the aftermarket industry might publish a service bulletin, newsletter or similar which relates specifically to a 'check engine' light function, or perhaps when publishing a workshop manual etc. Thus the symbol is standardised throughout the industry. Rocket | ||
| Baggermike |
that makes sence, but it would be cool to see a vtwin instead. Mike | ||
| Rocketman |
that makes sence, but it would be cool to see a vtwin instead. Mike, I couldn't agree more. Who's V twin, that could be the most contested argument known to mankind though!  Rocket | ||
| Captnemo |
My issue has been resolved, It turned out to be a faulty voltage regulator. I'll pick up the bike on Friday on my way to Jennings GP in eastern Florida for a track weekend. I'll be taking the Firebolt as well to have a little more fun than the break in procedure will allow. Issue Resolved Thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/326821.html?1199162354 | ||
| Baggermike |
Hi guys fineally got into diognostic mode and my battery read 12 volt with engine off running it was up to 14.1 volts so I think that it might be that the charging system is good, but maybe the battery is not good for me and need a better one, any sugestions? also in the bigenning it said system error- fuel pr - po 193 and - poo87, also clutch state was at 0 so this might explain how it felt like my ulysses when down shifing, anyone know how to change this setting. Thanks Mike | ||
| Interex2050 |
Went to start the bike this afternoon and the battery was dead... The low battery light went on yesterday but promptly went out after starting. At the moment the battery is at 10.29V and it is not a current leak because with the bike off there is only a 1.4 mA draw... Waiting for my friend to drop off my battery charger so I can charge it up and run further diagnostics. This is not a good time for this... I cannot be left without a vehicle again... I have 5 days to resolve this... | ||
| Spatten1 |
Sounds like there was a special on batteries at Big Lots in York PA. Batteries still get filled at the dealership as part of the set-up, don't they? Damn, if there is one thing that the factory would not be able to control, it is bad batteries. That sucks, but at least it sounds like Buell is innocent. | ||
| Ccryder |
Scott: When was the last time you looked at a Buell battery? Did you notice that there are no little filler caps anymore? New technology. I know at least back to S1 days they were running the Maint. free batteries. Even in this world of 6 Sigma, a few bad ones can get through. More likely with the low RPM's during breakin and short rides, the batteries are not getting enough charging time/ RPM's. Just my $0.02 Time2Ride Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
interex2050 I also think I might have a bad battery and know how it feels when your bike goes down, my ulysses oil pump broke in october had bought the bike new in june and I am a motorcycle only guy so when it broke in october I told service my broublem and they did not give a shit, got the bike back in december and it still was not right, so I bought a buell balst to teach my son to ride and going to keep it for a second bike, he lent me the money to buy the 1125R so I am giving him the ulysses and will have the blast if anything goes wrong again, and that dealership in manchester new hamshire lost a customer, so when the 1125 was dropped off they took the ulysses so we can still ride and think this bike is a good second bike, only paid 1200 for it and been working on it sat for a long time so needed care, but the problem I have with the 1125r is the battery I checked the charging system and was fine but when I were my heated gear it does not heat up like on the ulysses or blast, will get a aftermarket battery, I have a fully heated gear and ride it in any temp so I need it to be dependable, and think stock batterys are not that good. Mike | ||
| Usroute66 |
I have an Aprilia Tuono, 2004. Rotax builds a great motor (zero problems of constant thrashing), but the charging systems and the battery have been a problem for the Tuono as well. The interesting thing is, I can put 500 miles on the bike in one ride, park it in the garage, plug in the Tender and it is red, indicating the battery is down and needs a charge. This shouldn't be. However, since I bought the bike, I have never needed a new battery. I just plug in the Tender and so far, so good on the original battery. Does anyone know who makes the charging system for the 1125r? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ducxl, does that really make you feel better? I'm sorry you feel the need to constantly rain on someone else's parade. No, check that. I feel sorry for you. Have you ever thought to be constructive instead of destructive? Or don't you know how? sigh..... | ||
| Spatten1 |
CCryder: When I worked at dealerships we filled the maintenance free batteries on-site then put the "non-removable" strip over the holes. The batteries were shipped with the acid in a size-specific plastic container with six cells. That was in the early 90's. Have things changed? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Heheheheh sit back and have a beer, Steve. Hey Mike, just returned your e-mail and here it is... If your battery showed 12.0V before you started it, then saw 13.5-14.1 when running, your system is GOOD. Put a tender on your battery every now and then, should be fine. Still concerned about your Fuel pressure codes. Ratbuell or buellrcr or buzzy - anybody know what PO 193 and PO 087 trouble codes mean? Blake needs to start a POO subthread here too. edit< oops there is one already..> Z (Message edited by zac4mac on January 02, 2008) | ||
| Slaughter |
Heheheheh sit back and have a beer, Steve. As always, good advice, my man! | ||
| Interex2050 |
well charged the battery up a bit... got her up to 12.69V (although the charger was still going full blast...) cranked her over voltage jumped to 14.2V So my guess that I just have a bad battery or it was just a fluke and will never happen again... I will keep on eye on it... Thanks, Peter | ||
| Dre99gsx |
After my ride home on the new 1125r, the bike would not start the next day. After chargning it overnight with a trickle charger and riding almost 2 hours (1hr each way to/from work), till this day, it has kept its charge and started right up, even in 30deg weather. I too thought the battery was bad, but so far so good. Its been almost two months since the low battery incident. | ||
| Brad1445 |
Dealers are in full control of the condition of the merchandise at the time of delivery. In fact its their job. I can fully understand the frustration of being stranded on a brand new bike it happened to be a few bikes ago. New is supposed to mean trouble free. | ||
| Baggermike |
no problem Ducxl. I just need a better battery, heated gear uses up allot of juice, and I will be riding all winter with heated gear, so as soon as I get the battery measurments, I am looking for the best, it is not buells fault that the battery is not up to the challeng I am asking of it, so I will upgrade, and enjoy piece of mind. Mike | ||
| Ccryder |
Mike: I not an electrical engineer (just a mechanical engineer) but, a larger battery will not do you any good unless you have the alternator to charge it. After all, batteries are just storage devices to start the M/C and power some things when the revs are low, and alternator output is low. Just my $0.02, but this discussion has been beat to death on a number of forums. Now if you were looking for a battery that would have more life than an AGM, that might be worth the effort. Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
yes I know a battery is a storage box, but some hold more than others, and also have more cold cranking amps, which is the amount of power to rotate the engine, like if it is very cold out and the oil is like glue or a high compression big bore motor, it will take a battery with more cold cranking amps to start it, so tomarow morning I get to see which bike starts, and which one does not, the buell blast that is on my charger and leagal to ride, or my 1125R which is not legal to ride, which I will try to start if the blast does not, so if the blast does not start, I will try the 1125R and drive with the blast plate on it, now if neither of them start I guess I am screwed, my nephews sportster will not start when it is under freezing, and he has a new battery, that harley replaced under warrenty 4 month ago, I have looked into battery's before for my bagger and there are better one's to buy, and are expensive, but when your ass depends on it, it is better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it, and a better battery will also hold more juice, so that means that I have a better chance of making it home, I had a bagger a few years ago and that bike would start no proublem down to 4 degrees, that was the coldest I went for a ride that year, today the blast did not start so easy, and now it is colder, so wish me luck for tomarow morning, so I can ride to the registry and get the bike leagal, and if I can not get either to run? I will put my shop light on the blast motor to warm it up so that I can get it running, I want to get this bike broken in asap so I can bring it in and have all the adjustments made to it, and then I can see what this bike is capable of doing. I want to watch how they rotate the engine and do the shims on the valves on the first break and tune up, and if they do not let me watch then they do not get my money, I have seen to many harley shops rip people off, and had the Manchester HD Buell screw up the ulysses so who can I trust? I will not be a victom, I can do it myself if I have to. I will let you guys know what the outcome is tomarow. Mike | ||
| Andella |
Mike, if you are going to ride today you have some serious b@lls. It is effing cold out... good luck. | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Andella I think I am more crazy than balls, I hope I am riding today got to get one running to do so, back in the seventies I live in Boston and they had a two week subzero temp down to five and ten belowe, had to kick a 500 single with no electic start, so by the time I got it running I was hot and out of breath, and at those temps you can not use a shield they just fog up, but now they have better things to elimanat that, whish me luck. Mike |
