| Author | Message | ||
     Adrian_8 |
The last two times I rode the 06 ULY the bike died while riding at and easy straight up pace. Restarted after I recycled the key... Both times it was about a mile after a startup on rides of 150 miles and only did it once each day...The dealer told me today that I had bad plugs ( NGK Iridiums) and plug wires...Magecore. I thought NO WAY...as the bike runs great until it feels like I hit the kill switch... the recall of has been done a year ago. BAS sensor right?.... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Yep. Next time it does it flick the kill switch off and on while you're rolling. It will come right back to life. Every time but once, my BAS has tripped while riding slow speed straight up and down within the first 10 miles of stopping. I'd be willing to bet your BAS is toast. I'd also be looking for a new dealer to service your bike. They don't know their butt from a hole in the ground. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
You're in Memphis. This isn't Bumpus is it? | ||
| Maximum |
Ft_bstrd said: "Every time but once, my BAS has tripped while riding slow speed straight up..." The one time must have been the time I almost ran over you in a tight corner.  I must say that you are pretty quick at cycling the kill switch! | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I agree about with "hole in the ground".. I almost ordered the BAS to save the hassle, which I might still do. Going to call them right now. From Memphis, Indiana. We got hills and curves here. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Maximum, you are absolutely right. That was spooky. I was in full lean and when to gas it to pull out of the corner and nothing. The bike almost fell over on me. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Adrian_8, Good. Bumpus is my dealership in Nashville. They do a really good job at diagnosing problems. If it was another Bumpus dealer in Memphis, I was going to have to have the service guy call them and assist them with a cranial rectal extraction. Who is your dealership there? | ||
| Adrian_8 |
OK...they said today that a spark plug wire..(rear) had separated (boot came off/torn I guess)....so I took both of the old Buell wires to them, you know they have to have the original Buell wires, and now they can further diagnose the problem.. if necessary they would take a BAS off a floor bike... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
It's a weak dealer that insists that only stock parts be on the bike to diagnose the problem. I had a VW Passat that had a defective seat base. The dealer replaced the seat base. Later I developed a problem whereby all the dash lights kept flickering out. I had upgraded my dome light fixture from a later model to provide LED internal illumination. Because of that upgrade, the dealer said that they couldn't diagnose the problem. I proceeded to diagnose the problem for them. Seems that when they replaced the seat base, they didn't get it plugged all the way into the wiring loom. As a result, the same plug caused the dash plug not to be plugged in all the way. With the stock plugs, they should still not be able to diagnose the BAS because it won't throw any codes. They will hand it back to you saying that it is repaired and that it was the Denso wires causing it. They will say that it never did the same thing then they had it and that it didn't throw any codes. You will ride it and upon traveling 5.2 miles from the parking lot of the dealer, it will do it again. This will result in you being without your bike for at least another day or two while they determine that they don't have any way of telling if it is or is not the BAS. They will reluctantly replace said BAS. You will have no problems. At least until the BAS takes a crap again. I'm on my 4th. | ||
| Xbimmer |
This stuff is why I never did the recall. In 40k my BAS has never passed out on me, and I don't want anybody messing with it. Of course I realize since I said that it'll fail on me now... | ||
| Crusty |
My Bank Angle Sensor has never acted up on me. I had the recall done, and a few thousand miles later, it still hasn't given me any trouble. My Uly is now out of warranty, so if the bike starts giving me fits, I'll just have to diagnose and correct the problem. | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
As stated by Ft Bastard, it sounds exactly like the BAS. Mine would only trip riding in a straight line. Cycling the kill switch or key will start it right back up. Also, as he said it will not trip a code in the computer, so it is likely they will not diagnose it correctly. Plug wire problems, in my experience, will cause the bike to miss but not die completely. Sound like they are on the wrong trail. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Some one needs to do a plug-in that makes the ECM think that there is a working BAS online, when there really isn't. I recall seeing a similar set up for the active muffler module/motor thingy.... @ American Sport Bike perhaps. The BAS is worthless IMHO - sounds to me like the safety police working overtime, needlessly, again. . | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
John, There is a setting you can trip in ECMSpy. Check in the BAS Failure Thread. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
.....thanks, fatty | ||
| Slaughter |
You might be able to disable the function of the BAS but remember, you WANT the engine to stop running if you ever tip over. Running the engine without lubrication while it's lying on its side can trash it in short order. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
You might be able to disable the function of the BAS but remember, you WANT the engine to stop running if you ever tip over. Running the engine without lubrication while it's lying on its side can trash it in short order What i don't want is the potential for all of the inherent problems associated with this thing - i've had a few bikes before without BAS, and I did okay. For some reason, after having read a lot of the reports on the BAS, it seems to me that they may have gotten ahead of the 'practicle' technology on this thing. If something can't be mass-produced reliably, regardless of how cool conceptually it is, then I want out. Look at Fatty, how safe was it when his unit faltered, nearly causing him, and the rider behind him, an accident. They ARE creating safety issues in the process of addressing a safety concern that is, IMHO, minuscule in comparison. Technology for its own sake, never works. And yes, I hate the active exhaust cable motorized vavle in the muffler (ala Rube Goldberg) thingy, as well - now there's a solution to a problem that should never have existed in the first place - had they designed a better muffler from the get-go. There - I think I feel better now.... yup, I do. Cheers John H.  . . | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Exactly...they will probably just put on a new BAS as there are no symptoms on a bad one..What has me half pissed is my new Magnecore plug wire "separated"...yeah right.. when a heavy handed mechanic grabbed it with a pair of pliers and yanked on it. I have a pair of plastic coated plugwire piers that I used to carefully install them. Now I have to buy at least one new Magnecore wire and "re-install" them. The BAS is just a safety feature that has some merit....whereas on a 2007 BMW R1200GS they have this EWS deal where the ignition key has to recognize the ignition switch... The antenna on the key hole broke...Buddies bike would not start in BFE...had to have it towed to a dealer and 3 days later got it back... There have been several do this and the Beemer boys are upset, rightfully so. A bike thief doen't need a key...just more electronic crap to leave you stranded. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Running the engine without lubrication while it's lying on its side can trash it in short order. Are you sure about that? Remember this engine does not have plain bearings. Not saying that no oil is a good thing, but I'll bet the H-D engine is more tolerant of oil starvation than a "normal" engine. In fact I remember reading something (many years ago) from H-D about running their engine "50 miles with no oil" w/o seizing. | ||
| Id073897 |
You might be able to disable the function of the BAS but remember, you WANT the engine to stop running if you ever tip over. You do not necessarily need to switch off the BAS , you could alternatively extend the BAS delay. It could be extended to about 2.5 seconds, default setting is 1 second. Regards, Gunter | ||
| Slaughter |
Good points about re-setting the BAS threshold I'm in the camp of folks who have REMOVED the BAS on my racebike. I've had to run back to it and kill it after the corner marshalls had traffic stopped. I can't say exactly WHAT would happen if the motor were running "dry" for a minute. Lie the bike on its left (fuel pickup) side and it will run quite a while. I too would hate to worry about the engine dying when you NEEDED it!! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I don't believe a change to the threshold will help a failing BAS. When it fails, it believes that the bike is on it's side. Even if you delay the threshold, it will still shut the bike off because it believes the bike is on it's side. It will just take 2.5 seconds longer to shut your bike off. I believe it has a lot to do with rider, riding style, heat, and riding environment. I ride curvy roads as hard as I can as often as I can toting a rider that is 50lbs heavier than most other riders. I believe that my bike runs hotter than one ridden for mostly long distance with less variation in engine speed, less engine braking and fewer trips to redline. I believe that each trip side to side is similar to the flex you receive from a tire or from a shock. The more it "moves" the greater it wears and the higher the likelihood of failure. Add to all of this the original heat, and I believe that it's the largest culprit. I am seriously considering heat shielding the next one to see if it makes a difference. There must be a cause and effect here. The first one spent it's entire life below the ECM. The second one spent half it's life below the ECM and the other half in the new position. The last one spent 100% of it's short life in the new position. I had it replaced before MBIV in March last year. It failed the first week of November. That's about 7.25 months. The first one died within the first 1,000 miles. One contributing factor of the last failure is that the tech didn't use any loctite on the bracket bolts. At Buelltoberfest, I noticed that the bracket was completely loose. I don't know when it happened. I'm sure it introduced some vibrations to the BAS that wouldn't have been present otherwise. I don't know what the answer is. While it's under warranty, I'll continue to replace BASs. After it's out of warranty, I'll have to decide how often I want to spend $25. It's weird. I don't really want to lose the benefit of the BAS. | ||
| Etennuly |
I've lost two of them. The first one in the original location and the second a few thousand miles after being relocated. I've done 14,000 miles since with no problem. There have been two times that I have dropped my bike sitting still in gear, with the clutch in. The BAS performed as it should have. The engine quit just as the bike got to the ground and control of the clutch lever was lost. I'm pretty sure it prevented extra damage, as the bike laid over as if it were shut off. I have the HB side bags and each has a little scuff on the front corner where they held up the bike and by having the BAS cut power it prevented further movement of the bike as it was going over. I was lucky and instinctively remembered a little dirt bike trick when tipping over, push the bars away from the direction of the fall. That way you minimize damage to the levers and bar ends. | ||
| Id073897 |
Even if you delay the threshold, it will still shut the bike off because it believes the bike is on it's side. It will just take 2.5 seconds longer to shut your bike off. If the BAS gets stuck in a tip-over position, then changing the delay would be of no help. We've seen in some logs, that the BAS occasionally signals a (false) tip-over voltage - generally just a short pulse, which is covered by the stock delay. If the BAS doesn't get stuck, the extended delay gives a double time for it to come unstuck. So it's dependent on how the BAS fails whether extending the delay might be usesfull or not. As the change is easily done, it's always worth a try in my oppinion. Regards, Gunter |
