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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through December 31, 2007 » XB9 Primary change swap on Uly...Tips, Tricks? « Previous Next »

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Andrejs2112
Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2007 - 03:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone remember seeing a thread with step by step instructions on doing the swap? I have the manual but, as with anything else, there are usually time saving tips, or better ways to do the same procedure. Any parts I should have on hand BEFORE attempting the swap. ie: primary gasket, etc,etc.

Thanks,
AR
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2007 - 03:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AR,

I haven't swapped the primary on my Uly, but I have done a stator replacement on my S3 which involves removing all the same parts. I think the service manual procedure is pretty straight forward on this.

Tips:

Yea, you probably want a primary gasket although several people here say the rubber-coated aluminum Cometik type gaskets (as now used) are reusable for at least 2 or 3 times. A gasket is about $20 IIRC.

You need something to lock the engine and primary so they won't turn when you loosen the nuts. American Sport Bike and others sell a widget that you place between the teeth of the two primary sprockets to prevent them from turning. IIRC it costs about $15. You can make your own from a scrap of metal if you want to take the time.

Also IIRC the crankshaft nut is standard right hand thread but the clutch nut is left hand thread. That'll be in the service manual. You don't want to be trying to loosen one by turning in the wrong direction.

Be sure you have a torque wrench that'll go up to the ~240 ft-lb recommended torque for the crankshaft nut. Most of your Harbor Freight/Northern Tools/Craftsman wrenches won't go nearly that high. I was able to borrow one from my local Autozone parts store for free that went to at least 250 ft lbs. If you decide to buy your own prepare to spend some serious bucks.

One very important tip- the end fitting on the clutch cable that screws into the primary cover is made of aluminum and is VERY easy to wring off (found out that the hard way on the S3). It seals on an o-ring and doesn't really need to be much more than finger tight to seal oil tight. It is scary how easy it is to break it off, so DON'T over-tighten it.

Good luck!
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Teeps
Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2007 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hughlysses Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2007
One very important tip- the end fitting on the clutch cable that screws into the primary cover is made of aluminum and is VERY easy to wring off (found out that the hard way on the). It seals on an o-ring and doesn't really need to be much more than finger tight to seal oil tight. It is scary how easy it is to break it off, so DON'T over-tighten it.

Good luck!


Some thread sealant (like is used on the drain plugs) doesn't hurt either.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2007 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

See photo to help with the gasket install. Makes it foolproof.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/301102.html#POST961379
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone have anymore tips on this subject? I'm going to try it in the next week or so.

Thanks,
Andrejs
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Monday, February 04, 2008 - 09:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a couple of tips I found out on my own...The front sprocket nut (1 1/16 socket) loosens counter clockwise. The nut on the clutch (1 3/16 socket) loosens clockwise. Very important to get that right or you will swear a lot. You will also need a press to remove the sprocket from the rotor. A hammer will not work...NO SHARP BLOWS!. I am still working on this and will post more later.
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Jlnance
Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2008 - 07:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What kind of press? Something I can get an autoparts store?
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2008 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took mine to a friends shop and he did it on his manly man press. He said a small "arbor press" would have worked. Do a search and you'll find several out there. Northern Tool and Harbor Freight has some for less than $50 I believe.
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Andrejs2112
Posted on Tuesday, February 05, 2008 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put everything back together today. The only thing I had trouble with was putting the sprocket nut back on. It turned real hard when tightening sooner than I expected. It almost felt like a tapered shaft. It took several tries. I don't think it was going on crooked either. Anyway, It's on there now. I just followed the manual to the T and it went fine. I used red locktite everywhere the manual said to. I think I've read on other threads that the red is too strong. Is that true?

(Message edited by andrejs2112 on February 05, 2008)
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