| Author | Message | ||
     Spiderman |
 Does anyone have or have any idea on how to make a sparkplug wrench to get the plug out of a Blast without removing large amounts of plastic? | ||
| Mavinwy |
I have one of the old Hollow Tube style plug wrenches that ised to come with like every bike made in the '80's. It is the type that a screwdriver goes through the holes for leverage. It takes the plug out with no problem at all. The only downside is puttin the plug back in you can't torque it to specs with this style, so I use the old fashioned "tighten to finger tight and then go one additional eighth with the wrench" Has worked fine so far. What ever happened to the time when they used to include a toolkit with bikes....sigh... | ||
| Spiderman |
XB9R has a tool kit could you give me the specs for that? | ||
| Mavinwy |
Specs for that? I can measure it when I get home if you would like, but basiaclly they were just a cheap piece of hollow tubing with the end bent into a hex the right size for a sparkplug. Mine happens to have both sides bent into shape for 2 different size plugs. I think it is from either an old Yamaha dirtbike I had, or a 650 yamaha parts bike (though it could be from something different.) You could probably find one at a junkyard by looking through the scrapbikes 'til you found one that still has the toolkit. They wouldn't handle a lot of torque, but they certainly would (and do) take out a sparkplug. Jim | ||
| Spiderman |
cool we need one for a Rider's Edge class if you could get me the length that would be great. | ||
| Xgecko |
I use a cheap sparkplug socket that is slotted for a box/open end wrench on the top. It works fine...so fine the dealer went out for a cheapy just like itwhen I told then (even they would prefer to do things faster and easier I guess) | ||
| Dasxb9s |
I was told by a dealer mechanic to use a box end wrench. I was to thread the plug until finger tight... then with the box end wrench... seat the plug against the crush washer by turning about 1/4 turn using the wrench. It seems to work... and does not require taking anything apart or having a special tool. | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Spidey, I use a 5/8" ratcheting box end wrench and it works fine. Does not require removing lots of body work, and fairly inexpensive at Ace hardware. Ray | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Speaking of spark plugs...do any you of you run other types of spark plugs with good results? I definitely want to carry an extra when we travel. What I am trying to say is, can I go into Wally world and pick up a plug that will work? I'm an idiot...LOL I didn't see the top of the thread. Thanks. edited by JohnnyLunchBox on July 22, 2004 | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
Okay, maybe it's me, but I can't find NGK spark plugs anywhere. I wanted to go with the iridium and all that good stuff, and the bike really needs a new plug bad. I can actually feel the stock plug going away slowly (at 12,500 miles) where can I find a freakin' plug? I used the numbers at the top of the page and pep boys, autozone, and checker had NONE of DPR9EA9 plugs in stock, and couldn't tell me where to get them. Online? Any ideas at all folks? | ||
| Jprovo |
Try a motorcycle shop. http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/DPR9EA-9.html James | ||
| Tnthumper |
has anyone tried the Buell triple platinum plug? Or how about the screaming eagle equilivant? The Buell is $7.95 ea and the Screaming Eagle are $13 for 2. I am asking because I am addint the Pro-series intake and exhaust and re-jetting carb. was wanting a better plug to ensure complete burn. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I use a Splitfire plug (Screaming Eagle without SE name). Although I cant really tell the difference on this bike, on other bikes the difference was huge. | ||
| Jerzydevil |
erik, off hand do u know the splitfire #? Thanks shawn | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
SF 416D Though I'm reading the # off the package, I believe its also listed on the Splitfire website. | ||
| Jerzydevil |
thanks erik, i've been looking in the books at parts stores but they didn't have the blast. i've run the splitfire in just about everything i've owned and noticed an increase in power. didn't check the website tho. forgot about that.   | ||
| Berkshire |
I bought a DPR8EA-9, but haven't put it in yet because it just has a screw thread on the end where the plug wire goes - it doesn't have the shapely "nipple" thing for the spark plug boot to snap onto. I checked with the place I got it, and the guy said that NGK doesn't supply that piece with any of their motorcycle plugs. (mildly) amusing story: the guy went on to say that I didn't NEED that part, because motorcycle plug wires just attach to the threaded end. He suggested that if I was going to (foolishly, he seemed to think) cling to the belief that I DID need that piece, then I should just use the one off my old plug. When I told him that the old H-D plug was all one piece, he didn't seem to believe me - I guess he's never worked on a car, or anything else, except (possibly) a metric bike. anyway - I don't have a collection of assorted old motorcycle plugs laying around... does anybody know where I can get one of those little electrode tip pieces? Also, I noticed that my regular 5/8" spark plug socket doesn't fit the DPR8EA-9 - should I have gotten a DCPR8EA-9 instead? | ||
| Jprovo |
I thought that the HD terminal was threaded on too... Perhaps you can steal the one off you lawnmower? I don't know if you can get them seperately, but you might want to wander over to your local auto service place and see if you can steal one off some plugs that they are going to throw away. BTW, When I buy NGK plugs for the Blast, they come with the threaded terminal, you're right, you should have got a dCpr.. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Your parts guy is full-O-crap!!! I've been using NGK for years (until I found Splitfires). I've always gotten ends and I can't think of any of my bikes not needing the 'nipple'. Use Loctite on the nipple (if you have some). | ||
| Berkshire |
Excellent idea! It turns out that my edger has a plug with a screw-on tip, so the edger will get a new plug tomorrow, and the Blast will get the shiny new tip.  problem solved. new problem appears: After looking at this stupid overpriced nipple-less spark plug for the umpteenth time, I just now noticed that it's missing the "R" - it's a DP8EA-9, not a DPR8EA-9. I found a guide to NGK's numbering system: http://www.ngk.com/images/NGKsparkplugNum.gif According to this, the "R" is for resistor. My Blast doesn't have a radio or a computer, so it seems like a non-resistor type plug should be okay... On the other hand, the stock ignition coil is a "low resistance" type (or something like that, according to the SE ignition module instructions), so I wonder if maybe the coil needs to have a resistor type plug to work properly, or to keep from burning up... or maybe the SE ignition module is "computerish" enough that IT can't stand a non-resistor plug??? | ||
| Berkshire |
I read the post about the splitfires - the 416C was my first choice. I called about a dozen local places, and none of them sold splitfire plugs, so then I started looking for NGK's. "Cycle Gear" was the closest place... and yes, the parts guy/cashier DID seem a little wet behind the ears! I need to find a GOOD local shop - where do you guys buy spark plugs & stuff? (Message edited by Berkshire on April 10, 2006) | ||
| Jackbequick |
"Use Loctite on the nipple (if you have some)." Not a good idea really, Loctite dries to a plastic layer and is not electrically conductive. I always just grip the nipple with a pair of pliers and run em down hand tight, there is not really any place for them to go with the spark lead on. Jack | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry Jack, but you've obviously never ridden a Blast for any distance. It will come loose, tight plug wire or not. Loctite does not provide an adequate layer of insulation to make a difference. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Berkshire: Most of my parts I mail order usually using Dennis Kirk, J & P Cycles or HD/Buell. | ||
| Light_keeper |
I am on my 4th season and mine hasn't come loose yet. I have the Buell plug.  | ||
| Berkshire |
yep, mail order is looking like the way to go. I try to support local business, but if the difference in cost is unreasonable - or if they don't have what I need - then ebay and google will get 'er done! I had similar concerns about the conductivity of loctite - I figured I'd squash the threads a little to make it a tighter fit. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Erik, Okay, I guess I'd use Loctite too then if I had a Blast. Jack | ||
| Jprovo |
I'll have to say that I've never locktited mine, for the same reason that Jack brought up. I've only had one come loose on me, once, on on Ironhead Sporty. But if it works, I can't see that there is anything wrong with it. If I was going to locktight that terminal on the plug, I'd be tempted to snug it down, and just put a drop on the top of the threads and the terminal. YOu can do this on the NGK's because the hole in the trerminal is a through hole... James | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just a drop of red on the threads. The terminal screws all the way down till it makes a non thread to non thread contact at the bottom. There wont be any Loctite at all at that contact point (if it was a concern). I'd say its cheap non consequential insurance. Every terminal I've screwed on has the marks from a pair of pliers. -BUT- if you crank it down too tight you can crack the insulation. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I couldnt find anything in the manual (after a short search) about the coil needing a resistor spark plug. The ignition module cant tell the difference but it might make a difference to the coil. |
