| Author | Message | ||
     Fresh |
Sarodude, If permanent: try a hidden location. The X1 has a good spot. Almost not noticeable. You must get a bung thats under an angle. Have one made at a friendly machine shop. Take great care when welding. This way you minimise damage to ur chrome. If temp, not for riding (only tweaking) stick the sensor up your exhaust as far as possible. This will probably not work with stock exhaust because of baffles but with straight thru it wil work. I fitted my exhaust sensor in sight on rear cyl. header will post pics later. Still waiting for my autometer phantom series A/F gauge and oil temp from same. Delivery takes ages through the dutch dealer. Should have ordered in USA direct. I keep the sensor permanently. (i am gadget freak) Fresh | ||
| Spike |
For those of you with factory race header/muffler; How bad is the repack procedure? How often do you need to do it? How obnoxious is the race exhaust if you keep fresh packing in it? I found out today that with my employee discount the race exhaust is quite a bit cheaper than even the D&D system. Assuming the repack schedule is tolerable I might go ahead and order one. Thanks in advance. Mike L. '99 Cyclone | ||
| Buelliedan |
Spike, The recommended repack on a race muff is every 1000 miles. The bad part is that after a while the rivet holes have a bad habit or getting ovaled out. I love the D&D!! It is built like a tank and no repacking!! | ||
| Fresh |
Hi all, I got a exhaust question. I bought a Rino exhaust a while ago and was trying to fit it yesterday with my new front support kit and new rear support bracket. Well the thing would not meet at all on the header. I did the install according to the suggested method mentioned here. (and many other ways when it would not fit) When i slipped it over i could not get the front support bolt holes to line up without the end of the pipe ending somewhere on the center line of the bike. No way it would fit without serious force to keep all in line. (i felt this would be to much tension on the header bolts so stopped to get a closer look. I measured and compared with my old stock exhaust and it seems that the Rino exhaust bend connecting to the header is not 90 degrees bend. it is actually a bit less, but sufficient to screw up relative tension free mounting. The alignment of the pieces (in length) is allright it is just that damn angle. When i remove my header and connect exhaust to front and rear support it hangs like a dream, straight and solid stress free. (i did this to eliminate possible offset between front and rear support brackets, this turned out to be ok) Now my question: do all Buells exhausts for stock headers require a 90 degree bend from line of connection (imaginary center line front support ------center back exhaust support). I would really like to get my hands on an auto cad drawing of all the header types to compare. Is there some piping engineer on this board who has some drawings of headers ??? Just wondering if the less than 90 degrees bend for connection to header that i am having is normal or a fluke. (seems i am always having these shitty things) Reminder to myself: next time buy a proven record exhaust used by plenty people, stop experimenting with new stuff.  I like this exhaust so much so i wont complain to the store, i will cut it and align properly and re-weld. ( the exhaust was intended for X1, the S1 model was not mentioned in the paperwork, so i i guess i could expect some trouble when installing) This is also really a good chance to align all in good order with minimal stress. Fresh  | ||
| Peter |
Fresh, I had a Supertrapp for a pre '98 frame, on a post '99 model. I had to cut 7mm out of the inside of the bend to the muffler so that it would sit under the bike properly. I think the headers have different bends between the over frame and under frame designs. PPiA | ||
| Richardm2 |
THE WHITEBROTHERS E-SERIES. I did see some questions about the WB e-series. I have been running one for about 10.000Km. Lost the front mount after 4000Km The baffle desintergrated after 7000KM the new replacementcore lasted only 1000KM before total destruction. Contacted WB a few times about this problem but no reaction at all. For the time being i made a inner core using the parts of the old core and the broken replacement core. The WB does have a great sound but no more for me due to bad customerservice and bad replacementcore's. | ||
| Buellzebub |
sorry for the bad luck with the e-series, i have put approx. 17,000km on mine [97/98 s1 c/w custom slipper mount for race header, see profile for picture] with no probs, still have the original packing in it too. maybe the way you have it mounted is inducing xtra stress at the front mount. | ||
| Fpatton |
Hello - I've had my first Buell (a new '01 M2) for a couple of months now, and have my first question for the group. (I've searched the archives, but haven't found an answer to this particular question.) How much power am I giving up with the stock California muffler over a stock 49-state muffler, or is there any difference at all? I'm thinking about an aftermarket exhaust, but it occured to me I might be able to get a power increase just by going to a stock muffler from some other state, and keep the bike quiet at the same time. Thanks! Fred | ||
| Buelliedan |
Fred, Cali mufflers and 49 state muffs are the same. Cali bikes have the fuel vapor coffe can. Thats the only difference. | ||
| Jocklandjohn |
Fred - greetings. I just (last week) replaced my stock breadbox (on a 2000 M2) with an 8 inch round K&N filter and a plain round (cheap) fibreglass cover. Rejetted the carb according to the instructions here and fitted the sportster needle, drilled out the idle mixture screw cover and set screw to 2.5 turns out. Ran the breathers in to a Jaz can. I still have the stock exhaust so it remains 'quiet', but the new air intake has given the whole plot a rorty sound that is quite pleasant. However the difference in performance is amazing! It feels like someone snuck in and fitted an extra cylinder. The bike just goes so much more easily. Feels like a different machine and I now know what folks here are talking about with their 'goes like a raped ape' analogies. I was getting dripping oil out of the breadbox, but now I only get water out of the Jaz can. Might be worth you starting with these simple mods to give you the performance increase without sacrificing the relative quietness of the stock exhaust. Good luck. JOHN | ||
| Bluezhawg |
I just want to post and lend my .02 worth. I have recently installed the D & D slip on muffler to my 2000 S3T.The install was easy.The construction is awesome.However,the best part is the performance and the sound.This thing sounds so sweet,not too loud nor too quiet!It is very nice.Now the performance....When coupled with the race ECM ect.this thing rocks in the mid range.I'm so happy with this D&D muffler.I recommend it to anyone looking for a truly quality piece that provides the best of all worlds.Questions feel free to email me thats my .02 Steve  | ||
| Richardm2 |
Buellzebub It isn't a big problem about breaking parts. Lost the front mount at the track due the high vibrations. But it's more about not getting any answer from WB. If they did give me a good reply to my questions i would buy another WB. Good customerservice is very important to me. And WB hasn't got that. | ||
| Bull |
Hi All, I have a qiuck Q: I had to replace my carbon White bros E-series muffler because it was cracking up (literally..). I ran the muffler with an open end, really loud and the bike felt very powerful (power wheelies in 1st, even when you didn't want). Anyway, I switched to a WileyCo titanium race muffler and it fits and sounds perfect... One problem though, the bike feels tired.. no more power wheelies  What is the problem, both systems are quite open. The WileyCo muffler has a sharper bend from the collector and the muffler is a bit longer. Thats about it, could this make this much difference??? Could someone plz advice on what to do!! The bike is a M2'99.. KuryAkyn Intake and SE Race Ignition... Cheers/ Jonas | ||
| Buellzebub |
bull, my e-series has a 2" core, that may be the difference. most of the other buell cans have a 2.5" core, i beleave the smaller core diameter aids in mid range torque. [bernouli effect] | ||
| Buellhowser |
Roc, The factory race kit is as good or better than anything. Makes good power, designed by Buell, cool industrial look to the muffler (in my opinion). The factory packing is little more than newspaper, but I repacked mine a year ago with Malcom Smith motocross packing (1 year money back guarantee) and have not had a problem since. The only drawbacks are the price and a propensity for breaking around the collector inlet. Took me two years and 12K to break mine, that's a better track record than most of the mufflers I hear people bitching about, and I got the upgraded one gratis. | ||
| Shotgun |
Put my new D& D muffler on my 2001 M2 with stock header. Mid-range power increase is awesome. This sucker is loud though very mellow sounding. Had to start wearing ear protection that I never felt necessary with the stock muffler. | ||
| M2anonymous1 |
Shotgun - I just ordered a new D&D slip on for my M2. How bad is the noise level at slower cruising RPMs (1-3,000)? Have you noticed a slight power loss up to 2,500 RPM? I will be trying White Bros. tork valves to boost the low end power, along with the mid range improvement from the D&D. Cheers..... | ||
| Shotgun |
Yeah, maybe a little low end power loss, but definitely a boost 3000 to 5500. It's loud. Maybe not strait pipe obnoxious, but loud. What's a tork valve? | ||
| Rick_A |
I think a Supertrapp automotive external disk muffler is best with the race kit. 1.It's lighter than the Buell race kit muff by several pounds 2.It's tuneable 3.Looks much better than anything else IMO Oh, and my dealership gave me crap about that "Y" mount upgrade. I called beforehand and they had told me it'd be free...so I get there and they say they had just called up BMC and that it hasn't been offered as a free upgrade since July 2001. So, respecting the "expert" opinion I paid for the thing. Is there a definitive answer? Must it take as much poking and prodding as people suggest to get things done with the dealerships? If so...they can kiss my fucking ass. | ||
| Fresh |
Rick, Aaaghh, Here we go again, I was told the same when i asked about the Y upgrade by one dealer in Holland. The fact is he told me i had to pay and then after i collected the part they would ask for refund by Buell. Yeaaah rright, assholes. This is one dealer i never visit again. (and it is a big HD dealer here in Holland, so size doesn't say anything) An other dealer knew nothing about it and needed some additional info from me, which i provided in the form of the bulletin of the original serv. and he was willing to run the gauntlet and made some calls to Buell Holland. Finally they gave it to me free. This is good business, me very happy. I cannot find the paper from Buell (it was never made public) but it is somewhere mentioned that the period has been extended to July 2002. Second, if your original bushing fails, Buell cannot/does not provide a replacement bushing because the item has been cancelled. So unless you go third party bushing (ASB) you are forced into buying a very expensive upgrade. I call this bad business. If the original mount was sufficient in design then the bushing would be considered a consumeable, since the design is probably not sufficient, Buell trashed the original design and came up with an upgrade better part. This is their product upgrade and therefore since we have no choice they should provide it for free to the users. Normal business practice if you want to keep your customers. Third, if the part was upgraded for free what is the stupid reason for doing this for only one year, one year is not enough to get the message out to all Buell owners, unless the dealers take an active part in spreading the news but that was never the case huh. Sufficient proof about that on this board, seems often the rider has to educate the dealer. And besides, who says the original bushing fails at their convenience (during the original upgrade period)if it fails after the upgrade period you replace since it is not a life threatning situation when the bushing fails. When the fails this is usually the time when riders find out the original bushing are no longer available. You are not going to replace it when the part is still ok, if this was the case, i.e. exchange of both good and bad mounts in lieu of failure than it would have been a recall, right ? And we know it was no recall. So in short it was unreasonable from Buell to make the part available for free for a period of 1 year only and think they could cover all bikes affected and therefore they extended the period with an additional year to July 2002. Why dont you call Buell yourself. It is a pity that this whole Y bracket thing is handled so bad by both dealers and Buell. Good luck, Fresh, (Y-mount crusader)  | ||
| Peter |
Fresh, Seeing you've already done the leg work, which dealer gave it to you for free? HCS did my M2 for free within the first year after I sent them the bulletin, but I haven't contacted them about the S1W yet. Might be easier if this time I just go to the one that you trained. PPiA | ||
| Hootowl |
A tork valve is a restriction placed in the head pipe near the head. It looks like an open ended cone. It speeds up exhaust gasses to help send them on their way down stream and prevent/reduce reversion. The D&D header has these sort of built in,(it is a stepped header) so there is no need to add them. In fact, they might not fit in the D&D pipe since it already has the narrow section where the tork valve would go. | ||
| Ralph |
A torque valve is way of spending money on a drop in exhaust constriction. It does not gain power but instead acts as a block to the movement of air. It's in the same catagory as "turbulators" and other such crap. In my most humble opinion, of course. bighairyralph | ||
| Rick_A |
Fresh, Thanks for sharing your personal Y-mount saga. I will call Buell. My $100 will be avenged!...hopefully | ||
| Mounty911 |
I need info on BUB headers for my M2. does anyone have them and like them or dislike them???? | ||
| Meat |
I have e-mailed you before with questions about my bike before and your replys have been very helpful...So here is a new one...I want to install a Buell Race header and muffler on my 2000 S3T and the parts book tells me that I will not be able keep my lower right hand faring...Have you known of any one doing this and keeping the right faring...I do not want to cut it up too bad but would still like to use the race header...Or is there another header pipe and muffler I can go to that will give me the same performance that the Buell system will... Thanks for your help...You can send your reply to my home e-mail address...I an using a friends computer... meat@nacs.net Thanks again... Dave | ||
| Dave |
Dave aka Meat, If you're installing just the race header and muffler there are no mods to the fairing lower. If ya install the race air cleaner, you'll have to mount the fairing lower to it somehow. Mine has the race header and muffler on it. You'll love it! Don't forget to have the TPS reset when you add the race ECM. DAve http://www.dcbrag.org/S3Td.htm | ||
| Rick_A |
I called BCS and they straightened my dealership out on the front mount issue. Cool. It shouldn't have to come to that. This is my system:  Nothing fancy | ||
| Coop |
after having the race ecm and air cleaner kit installed at the dealer on my bike, it felt like there was no power increase at all, until I got her home and installed the d&d slip on muffler myself, the power increase was unbelievable, like driving a totaly different bike, and the sound, my harley buddys are going to be jealous when they here this bike, it sounds awesome, I'm still smiling and I got off the bike an hour ago, I guess you have to install everything at the same time to really get the full benefits, well just wanted to share my story, ok bye-bye | ||
| Skulley |
Has anyone tried mounting tension springs to their header, like a two-stroke? I'm sick of loosing nuts, leaks and cracks in the pipe. If it had some flex points in the damn thing it might just work. Lets say one or two springs at the stud mounts, one at the hanger instead of a clamp, and rubber exhaust hangers to mount the muffler. Any ideas, comments or helpfull tips? If you live in Houston and want to experiment let me know. |
