| Author | Message | ||
     Lightningstrikes |
Ok I went out and got a spark plug socket to remove the axles on my 03 xb9s and I have removed the pinch bolts and unscrewed the front axle. I got it through the left fork and the axle is half way out but I can't seem to get it through the right fork to remove it completely. I'VE tried pulling it through and I've tried to get it to start threading through but I just can't seem to get it to come out. Any suggestions, the service manual just says remove the axle not how. | ||
| New12r |
Yup, just keep pulling, sometimes they will get hung up on the bearings. | ||
| Etennuly |
You probably have the famous corrosion problem. The axles have a coating, like galvanizing, that swells when in contact with dampness. Try to get it to move or spin a little then hit it with WD40, or PB Blaster. Let it soak a little then keep working it. When you do get it out clean it real good then coat it with antisieze when reinstalling. Do the same whenever you do the rear. Also you can pull out the soft rubber wheel bearing side seals and smear a little grease in there. The seals push right back in. | ||
| Evil_twin |
Mine had that little corrosion problem the first time I pulled my front tire. I didn't want to spread the forks so wrapped the forks with a couple shop rags and slid a large C-clamp through the wheel. Someone here suggested it but can't remember who, otherwise I would thank them again. ANTI-SEIZE when re-installing, I haven't had a problem. Rich  | ||
| Cataract2 |
Anti Seize on the threads and some axle grease on the bearings. Will prevent those bearings from sticking to the axle. | ||
| Lightningstrikes |
Thanks for the info guys. as able to get the front axle out after soaking it with some wd-40 overnight. I've now run into my second problem during wheel removal. I can't get the rear axle to budge. I have already snapped two 3/8 inch drive extensions needed to use the spark plug socket as an axle tool and bent the 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter so I could use a breaker bar. I soaked everything in wd-40 and it's just not moving. | ||
| The_new_guy |
Isn't one axle right hand thread and the other left hand thread on an XB? I'm not 100% but I though I heard that. Gregg | ||
| Lightningstrikes |
Isn't one axle right hand thread and the other left hand thread on an XB? I'm not 100% but I though I heard that. ya, the front was left hand threaded. I thought the rear was regular threaded.} | ||
| Ccryder |
My rear on my 04' 12r was REALLY tight. I used some penetrating spray and a heat gun on the right side of the swingarm. Be careful not to mess up the powder coat. I was using a 150 ft-lb electric impact and mine would not budge. Penetrating oil, heat and PATIENCE won out. Neil S. | ||
| New12r |
The rear can be tough. I would use the factory wheel tool with a large breaker bar. | ||
| Lightningstrikes |
I just ordered a axle tool from Al at american sportbike. I bought my bike used and it didn't have the factory tool kit so I don't have the factory axle tool. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Bro I have to ask you, did you pull the pinch bolt out from under the swingarm? I've heard that that's happened before... | ||
| Lightningstrikes |
ya i removed the pinch bolt and the drive belt | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I don't know if there is enough slack to do this, but you may be able to tip the axle downward a bit and see if you can push it back toward the other fork and past the wheel hub. You might be able rub the axle to remove the oxidation. You might try a bit of steel wool or a Brillo pad. | ||
| Metalstorm |
A long handled ratchet or a cheater bar (such as a pipe that fits over the handle)helps get leverage. If you have the bike on a rear stand you can put a foot on the ratchet handle and apply more force in an even steadily way. You do not want to use an extension for this. Short socket on the axle tool Keeping the ratchet close to the axle. Upon reinstall; Anti seize is your friend. I coat the whole axle and even put a small film of it along the inside of the bearings. Only two tire changes so far since the first one and every time it's all come out smooth & buttery. | ||
| Lightningstrikes |
ok, i'll have to wait for the axle tool to get here. I have to use an extension right now because i'm using a spark plug socket turned around backwards as my axle tool thus i have to use a 3 inch extension to get a ratchet on it. Also I thought heat caused metal to expand, would using a heat gun hurt or help. | ||
| Pwnzor |
Took mine out last night... like butter. Keep pulling. | ||
| Ccryder |
What you are trying to do with the heat is break the corrosion loose. Since you have Aluminum and steel components, they will expand at different rates. If you can heat the swingarm kinda quickly then your axle will come loose, or at least mine did. Remember, PATIENCE!!!!!!!!!! Neil S. | ||
| Dano_12s |
Light, Try the heat on swingarm then R134 refridge.liquid on axel.Good luck! Dan | ||
| Lightningstrikes |
That was a pain, but it's done the rear axle is out and the wheels are ready for their new rubber. I let it soak over night in wd-40, used a heat gun on the oil side of the swingarm, and a 4' breaker bar and the axle came loose. What do you guy recommend to clean the axles with to remove all the corrosion. I should probably try and clean out the swingarm also to get as much corrosion off there as possible. | ||
| Etennuly |
I cleaned mine with mineral spirits and a course scothbrite pad. The coat the whole thing with antisieze. Use the torque spec and method that is in the book. Next it'll be easy. |
