| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
Rick: How many miles has your S1 gone? Facing a belt replacement I have decided to replace the isolators. They are the originals with over 45,000 miles, distorted as you say but not broken. The bike has lousy handling but I am under no false hope that new isolators will cure it. New tires, new bearings and a new rear shock will likely also be necessary. Not happy but resigned that the old Buell needs $1500 worth of repairs to come back to life. Its retirement is imminent. Jose | ||
| V2win |
Hey guys, does anyone here know if you have to use the bolts that come in the isolator upgrade kit? All we had was the new style isolators so we used the old style bolts. Seemed to work ok but afterwards I began to question their use with the new isolators. Anyone here know for sure? Thanks, John | ||
| Rick_A |
My S1 has a mere 3600 miles. I read in Battle2win that the new bolts must be used. They stress that they are not interchangeable. | ||
| Henrik |
Suspension Tuning Links: Sport Touring MC - guys I ride with  Circuit 1 Factory Pro The Racing Motorcycle Dale Rathwell on Suspesion Tuning Paul Thede on Cartridge forks Dave Hodges Suspension Tuning Dave Hodges Tuning Guide Wrenching with Rob, Chassis Alignment Basics Shaun Pallister's Suspension Info Suspension Settings Explained Tuning your Forks by Dave Searle Suspension Basics by Goose Motorcycle Racing Beginners Guide. Looks like a nice site with lots of good basic info. Buell's official suspension tuning guide Technical MC Links all sorts of links for carb tuning, suspension tuning etc. etc. This is prescribed reading and there will be a written test at a later date Henrik | ||
| Awprior |
M2 Recall Shock I have a 2000 with the SRP shock. I found the following on a different site and was wondering if it was still applicable: '99 M2 and '00 all models: Original Showa shock is under recall. Will be replaced with new '01 style shock at no charge. This is true even if the shock is already equipped with the SRP, if the owner objects to the SRP's appearance. | ||
| Blake |
AW, Yes, have your dealer call the factory if they aren't aware of the situation. | ||
| Vr1203 |
Are there any tricks to removing the rear shock? I have a 1996 S1 and need to swap the shock. | ||
| Buelliedan |
The only trick is that you need to have a way to get all the weight off the rear wheel. Either by a centerstand or by hanging your bike from rafters using ratchet straps. You can't use a swingarm stand as this continues to put weight on the rear wheel. Once you have the weight off the rear wheel its as simple as unbolting the front and rear eyebolts | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Buellers Did the PM on front forks of my 97S3T with 44388.4 miles on it(by the way the heads have never been off either!!!!!). The right fork seel started to weep@#$%*&^!@.................................... Checked the tension on the steering head bearings which was 2 pounds by my refferance gauge(this is important as if too loose it will notch the races or if too tight you get a snakeing effect which goes into a speed wobble). Replaced both seals and updated fork oil to SCREAMIN EAGLE performance fork oil P/N99881-87. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Blake |
Time to send those heads in for some cleaning/porting?  | ||
| Jmartz |
Having kept the old exposed spring WP shock, I set out to attempt to restore it. After all my bike is in quite a few pieces undergoing a process of partial chassis restoration. To my surprise I discovered that White Power is a Dutch company whose products are serviced in the US by none other than White Brothers (no relation here). While the functioning of the unit seems adequate, I would like to get it "serviced" as it has gone 45,000 miles. When I called WP (in CA) I was told by a WP representative that such a device should get yearly oil changes. This seemed odd to me in light of the fact that similar units in cars are never serviced but replaced after 60,000 or so miles. Has anyone tried the Works unit that has become recently availble? | ||
| Jmartz |
According to the manual the swingarm bearings should be inspected and lubricated every 10,000 miles. Given the enormity of the task I've never looked at mine in 45,000. Now that I am "in the vicinity" everything looks so good and clean that I'm having second thoughts about getting in there. After all a special tool is required (that I don't own) to loosen the '96 and earlier swingarm buttons. The old isolators were cleaned and carefully inspected under magnification (I can't see all that well anymore with my bare eyes). They are not delaminated but do have a small crack inside about 1/3 around the circle. The rubber is also gone where they fit the frame. New old style ones are going in (those w/o the catcher lip but with the "B" for "buenos". I have a set of the later model swing arm "buttons" with the skinny long allen bolt to set the preload. I will use those if I decide to inspect the swingarm bearings and grease them.  | ||
| Blake |
José, I think the new isolators offer more improvement than just the catcher lip. They seemed a lot beefier to me. Suggest you use the newest version. Sounds pretty conclusive from your description that your old ones are toast. | ||
| Jmartz |
I need to check them out Blake. I have a set of the older (but revised) version that I purchased a long time ago but never opened. When I finally did I was surprised to find rust on the metal portions. The new rubber seems better finished and shinier. These old style things are a bit yukky. Do you think the rear disk which gives rise to the "catcher" is all the same thickness? | ||
| Milehi |
OK guys... Here's my REAL dumb question of the week... The dealer replaced the replacement shock (early Showa?) with the latest replacement shock (current Showa?)... Which adjustment screw is comression dampening and I'll be able to figure the other out... ie. which adjustment is on the resevoir??? Also, I see the reccomendations listed above should I use for the S1??? TIA | ||
| Blake |
The rear screw on the shock lug itself is the compression damping aduster screw, just like on your previous shock. Not sure which preload number applies to you. | ||
| Milehi |
Thanks Blake! Since the Service manual only addressed to original shock, I was somewhat confused. I'll probably use the M2/X1 numbers as a baseline and start tweaking from there. | ||
| Jmartz |
I took a look at the present day isolators last night at my dealership. Not only do they have a thick metal lip to catch the frame in case of total failure, but the things are a full 1/2 inch larger in diameter. The frame has a semicircle that was originally intended to follow the edge of the isolator. With these new ones the outer edge protrudes around the frame by 1/4 inch. This is all good and dandy but I am going to stick with the old design till they break, just like I did with the rear shock. Buell's replacements and redesigns of failing (or potentially failing) parts are usually less pleasing aesthetically. I keep reminding myself than when performance is not the issue style is what I must pursue, regardless of potential risk, in my case a least. jose | ||
| Tims |
Hi Just wanted to give Penske shocks a good rap. The Penske shock on my Buell was showing signs of wear on the body where the spring collar slides. This was after 14 months or so of abuse due to the very dry and dusty climate I live in. Penske replaced the alloy body with a s/steel one at no charge for components or labour. A big thanks to them and my Australian dealer Tim | ||
| Jmartz |
There is no hope..! Traxxion Dynamics has just rejected my plea for an oil and seal change on my WP rear shock. I guess its down to Penske ($1200) or the new Works (ca. $650). No chance my bike is getting the showa enclosed spring unit (free). S2pemgy you lucky dog. Jose | ||
| Jmartz |
Looked into the swingarm bearings last night. They were nearly dry with one of the seals insalled improperly (crooked) at the factory. There is no evidence of water or dirt in there though. Guess the 10K miles factory suggested greasing intervals should be ovserved. I have followed factory recommendations on the forks but the swingarm is just too hard to get at. Maybe if it had a grease fitting? Out to the dealer this morning to look for the seals? Please Lord let he FXR's use the same ones. Jose  | ||
| Jmartz |
I have purchaed the later model "buttons" with the long allen bolt for bearing preload adjustment. This array is quite a bit lighter than the older "axel" type and a bit easier to set the preload. About $30. Jose | ||
| V2win |
Jose, the swingarm bearings are the same as the steering head bearings. I used the new Aquaspexx units from Timken. They are expensive but should last much longer than normal ones. I figure its worth it since they are so hard to get to. | ||
| Ara |
Jmartz, could you please post those stock numbers? | ||
| Jmartz |
Ara: Sorry but I don't have them at present. I got those late model swingarm securing parts back in 1999 when the new aluminum swingarm came out. They were fitted to as far back as 1998 models. I don't know about 1997, 1996 and earlier have the "axel" type that requires a special tool to remove and set the preload. Can be done w/o it but you will mutilate the "buttons" somewhat. Jose | ||
| Jmartz |
V2win: Thanks for the tip. Aquaspexx? Are they water resistant? Had a thought of having that swingarm jet hot coated but all those things take time and I've got to use the bike. Jose | ||
| V2win |
Jose, Go to the frame and steering head section. There you will find info on these bearings. Here is the link to the timken page.http://www.timken.com/products/bearings/products/spexx/aquaspexx1.asp | ||
| Aaron |
I prefer the axle type. Good thing I didn't know I need a special tool  . A big screwdriver works. Not an issue. Sometimes on the later setup, the long skinny bolt breaks off. | ||
| Jmartz |
AAron: The skinny bolt is good as you can't really clamp on the bearings too hard. It doesn't matter that much if it breaks because once the "buttons" (how the hell are these things called?) are pinched the original preload setpoint should remain. The "buttons" sit (should) flush with the SA block so the skinni bolt or the "buttons" should not see any pull. On the bikes I've converted to '99 swingarms I had to mill the inner surface of the buttons to get them to fit flush. What a pain to hear "sorry, we have a $100 minimum, my machinist makes $75 an hour... Aaron, I bet you also prefer the '96 and earlier front motor mount, don't you. Jose | ||
| Jmartz |
On the subject of the rear shock and the whole recall controversy, I can see now why the darn things were recalled by Buell. In the all iron ones like on my bike, the shock eye seems to be designed for push and not pull. It only has to teeny welds holding it to the body. Perhaps I've been foolish not to accept the recall replacement and its concomitant decrease in aesthetic value. For someone who prefers to ride w/o helmet and despises liberal ideas of forced government protection I must pass and take the risk. After all its been nearly 50,000 miles and the shockeye is still attached. The law of natural selection is on my side, if it was going to come off it would have done it by now. Jose |
