| Author | Message | ||
     Luckyduck |
Ok, another 2 questions now that I have taken apart and gone through the primary, clutch and transmission of my Blast to make it shift better. My goal is to make a bit better power up through about 5500rpm (80mh)while keeping the low end, better gas mileage if possible and burn less than the current quart of oil per 750 miles. 1. What can I expect from doing the following to the motor in terms of both power and around town driveability as this is my only motor vehicle: K&N air filter Rejet 515 Kit Race spark plug Jardine Exhaust with Quiet Core 2. How much other disassembly is really required to change out the piston? The manual has you even take off the swing arm first. Thanks and sorry for being wimpy about tearing into the bike too much. I really like the way it drives and fits, but the drive train was has some weak points that I would like to get sorted out before I trust it on a long ride, as my dream is to ride it to Santa Rosa next summer. (~5k miles round trip) Paul | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I dont think the manual says remove the swingarm, regardless, you dont even have to go near that far (the bike is completely apart before you remove the swingarm-thats only for complete engine disassembly). Piston entails dropping the front of the engine and removing head and cylinder only- not that involved. Just doing the 515 will leave you with exactly the same Blast you have, just with a little more power. The only issue is you may experience is a little more knock and ping at takeoff due to the higher compression piston. You can go B50 (Pro Series) cams without further mods and they'll will drop right in while you have the top end apart. Get the cams if they're still on sale. Seriously, you can go much further in mods before you really start to hurt reliability or gas mileage. What you're talking about barely scratches the surface on what can be done and not have any detrimental effects on reliability and streetability. What affects reliability most is improper assembly! An aftermarket piston/cylinder should burn much less oil. I went at least 2000 miles without having to add any oil. The tolerances are much better than factory and you'll be amazed at how much oil you wont use. | ||
| Swampy |
Gearheaderiko, where are the cams on sale? Thanks | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Swanpy Last time I looked was is a set on ebay for $99.00. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/293148.html?1183697307 Thats where I got mine, but I have also been seeing them on ebay. | ||
| Luckyduck |
SO, will the cams make much difference in the 2500-5000rpm range for driving around town? Most of my riding is in the 0-65mph range and a lot of it is 2 up, so I am really looking for low to mid range. My goal is to slow the oil spewing and get a little better power. I definitely don't want anything peaky, my last bike had plenty of that for a life time. Oh yes, what jets/needle shims would be good to start with for the above set up? It will get dyno tuned after break in , but want to get a whole plan together before starting. Thanks again Paul | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, the cams will make a difference in that rpm range. Nothing we've talked about is even close to peaky. Oil consumption (and spew) will go way down with a new top end (dont forget the PCV line reroute). The typical 45/175 & 2 shims combo will get you started, especially if your going to get it dyno tuned. We could hash out jetting all day, but only you and the dyno will know if its right. You will need to verify if the people doing the dyno work will have jets and shims. If you need to go leaner, they may not have the jets. (main jets 150,155,160,165,175, -170 should be stock). The thing to remember about the Blast is its not a twin. Running at low rpms especially with 2 people is a recipe for disaster. You cant run a Blast the same way you might run a Buell/HD twin. The exhaust alone will make a big difference. Add the PS/B50 cams and 515 kit to it and you'll have a really nice running Blast. It wont be a rocket though (IE: very streetable and far from dangerous). My Opinion! (Message edited by gearheaderiko on November 26, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Revolution Performance had the 515 kit on sale. | ||
| Ezblast |
Techlusion TFI Management System - interesting new ignition choice - notice that. You know later with the B50 cam - you add some 1.75 ratio-rocker arms giving you the same lift as the SE550 cam, some better springs, guides, and seals and you'll think you have a new motor all over again with longevity included - considering the profile of the B50. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Add an ignition and he can raise the rev limit to 7500rpm and have an even better engine!!! Better yet, split the cases and add the 600 kit (same price as 515)! | ||
| Luckyduck |
No oil pouring out of my engine would make me happy. As I was changing the oil last week, it occurred to me that in 2500 miles I burned a quart more oil than I changed.  That lead to the thinking of new pistons, and of course one thought of that sort leads to another. Lots of power is not a big deal to me as the Blast is at least twice as big as any of the bikes I've had before.  Now my project is to save some cash over the next couple months to get the parts. Paul | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Hope this is the right area for this question. Has anyone tried using the front jug from a Sportster to replace the OEM jug on a Blast. The mounting points look like they may be the same. I'm curious if that would work or not. | ||
| Ezblast |
To gain what - they are the same as a 1200 now - just shorter stroke. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
what about a XB9R cylinder/piston and XB9R head ??? | ||
| Ezblast |
In stock form - the Blast head flows better than the XB9 head, though you do gain .7 on the compression - you have to run the XB head and piston together as a unit because they actually are designed for each other - if I where going all out then XB stage 3 head and high comp. piston (10.5) would be the ticket, if I wanted a really nice set up - Blast head stage 2 and hi comp. piston (10.5) is very reliable performer, and if I wanted to keep it basic the Blast head modified w/better parts (springs, seals, guides and perhaps 1.75 ratio rockers) and Blast hi comp piston would be be a great inexpensive ticket. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
10.0 - 9.2 = .8 low capacity air pump or high capacity air pump that is the question ??? | ||
| Ezblast |
Still a 10.5 would be better still - which leaves the stock XB out. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
BonesD1: Yes it fits (as long as it the same bore size-no wild oversizes). I'm currently running one now on the raceBlast. A beefier unit, there may be some clearance issues with the pushrod cover-easily solved with a grinder. I didnt experience any though. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Compression: keep in mind that compression is related to cam 'overlap'. 10.5:1 piston doesnt produce the same {effective} compression ratio with stock cams versus a race cam with lots of overlap. Then, to take it further, if everything is working right (the right combo of cams, exhaust, intake, etc) you may actually force more A/F into the cylinder, thereby artificially creating {what acts like} a higher compression ratio. Years ago (maybe they still do) when mpg was a huge concern, a camshaft company produced cams for chevy 350's that, through valve timing, turned the engine into a 200 (or something less than a 350). Compression is related to how long the valves are closed on the compression stroke. 10.1 compression is measured from the bottom of the stroke to the top. If the valves are still open while the piston is traveling upwards, that lowers the compression! That may be oversimplified, but you get the idea. | ||
| Buellistic |
salt flats engines have a unique sound !!! | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
EZ, I am looking to increase HP. Right now I don't have the funds to purchase any of the kits. But I do have access to many HD engine parts. I was hoping to create my own kit to increase HP with those parts. | ||
| Ezblast |
Well the Blast piston is supposedly a hi comp generic Sportster piston with the Blast head bringing the comp down - so the trick would be to find a Sportster piston that would bring the comp back up and that fit the specs of the Blast head - an inexpensive option - comparatively speaking - would be to just buy a Hi-comp piston designed for the Blast head - I know our sponsors sell them. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! The Blast, XB and XL parts are fairly interchangeable. 2004 XL heads are XB heads. You just really have to match the piston to the head. There is a noticeable difference in the XB vs Blast/XL head and pistons. Unless you're blind, you wont mistake one for the other. XL cams bolt right in a Blast (well 2 of them do). XB cams will also work, but there are some minor timing cup issues.  XB-left Blast w/10.5:1 piston right | ||
| Buellistic |
don't you just love that extra fin area to make more engine noise !!! | ||
| Reuel |
Time to revive this topic. I found glitter in my oil as I was dumping it from my pan into bottles, so I may be able to (FINALLY!) convince my better half that it's time to go 515 or something. It's probably just the oil pump gear or maybe the top of my piston or ... So, here's the question: With the bigger engine comes bigger power. How does the Pro Series cam set affect where the power increases in the RPM range? Is it essentially throughout the RPM range? I'm likely to use them because I bought into the $85 set. Next question: If I get the 1.75 ratio rockers, how does that affect power vs. RPM? I want more power, but I don't want to have to run 5K+ to get it. If I'm running along at 2500 RPM and I whack the throttle open, I want to feel it. Who has a good link to really good reading on the whole subject? | ||
| Ezblast |
The B50/Pro-series cam is great for cleaning up bottom and lower midrange, though there is a slight kick at 3000rpms, it adds little to the top end. If you get the ratio rockers, you'll have to improve your head gear with better springs, guides and seals, the added power through more lift would be felt throughout the range - I plan on these for the rebuild on my 2000 Blast - Vaderette. Erik O could tell you more about the SE550 cam - which to use and why - it is the recommended cam for good power and what I will use in conjunction with the ratio rocker-arms when it comes time for Vader's rebuild. Its smooth delivery will promote longer head life. 2500 is almost lugging it - wack the throttle at 3500 rpms and you would feel it. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 18, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Also read all the above topics for info on this topic. EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
not going to mention Part Number 26391-06 ??? what about Part Number 26357-07 ??? | ||
| Reuel |
Those go without saying! | ||
| Ezblast |
The oil-pump drive gear upgrade - please do so - since your in there, 26357-07 - this part number references nothing. EZ |
