| Author | Message | ||
     Deerhunter17 |
Hi all, sorry to be doing this this way, I have been looking in archives and knowledge vault for a while, but am coming up dry. I have an o4 XB12r.. 24,500 miles... Had since new. I once had a problem with it not wanting to shift, turned out to be a broken primary cover. It was replaced under warranty, complete with a stripped inspection cover bolt, thanks to the ( dealer )installer. A few weeks ago, It started becoming difficult to find neutral . I checked all the adjustments, but it continued and then suddenly the clutch became inoperable. Same situation as before.. the ring area inside the primary cover which the ball ramp is located has broken , AGAIN. It has been about 2 years I think, would have to check paperwork. I am going to weld it this time, but I am curious as to what could be the cause. I'll admit, just before it broke the first time, the bike fell over. It broke the shifter, but did no other obvious damage. I do not ride hard, race, or drag the clutch. When I adjust the clutch, I opt for the most pull available so as to not drag it unintentionally. I use HD SYN III in tranny, follow all the recommended service procedures, and have changed the clutch cable every 10K for preventative measures. | ||
| Torq |
a repair is discussed extensively here : http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/282980.html?1189063654 my repair now has 5K on it on no problems yet! | ||
| Cycleaddict |
yeah, git yer milling machine out . good idea obe, but how many of us regular guys have access to milling machines ? | ||
| Torq |
please read the entire post--I did my repairs with a cordless drill and grinding and cutoff wheels. Obie's ingenuity allowed me to be more creative with the tool selection since the repair was valid. his pictures also allow you to see before and after shots. my repair cost me $11.38 for the plate, screws and nuts, where as a new cover with employee discount cost $225. for that I could have also bought the cordless drill the grinding and cutting wheels, locktite,and tap and die set. | ||
| Deerhunter17 |
Thanks for the repair ideas,.... I was going to attempted welding and possibly beefing up in any way possible,.. the steel plate idea looks great. I feel a little better, and then not so much, to find out I am not alone in this problem. Any ideas Of the true cause? It doesn't seem common enough to be a true component design failure, so is it adjustment related? Maybe specific to certain model/ year? I have my own welding repair business, and along with any repair, I want to make sure I alleviate the cause. | ||
| Cycleaddict |
sorry, torg my bad, now that is do-able in john does kitchen !! | ||
| Torq |
I believe it is due to improper adjustment of the clutch cable, it may not feel like it is too tight but when grabbing the lever you actually use up all of the twist in the ball ramp mechanism and start to twist it in its recess which(especially with cast aluminum) fatigues the lips until they start to break off. there is not much room back there for welding as I also considered TIG welding new pieces or plate and really do feel that the the repair that Obie and I overtook to be superior anyways, there is no longer any flex in the ball ramp assembly and the over clutch feel and grab/release is much more instantaneous--feels like a new clutch actually. |
