| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
Jim: should you need it at a later date, I'll be happy to post a dictionary of appropriate Nordic curses  Henrik | ||
| V2win |
There is a set of those Isolators for sale on Ebay right now. | ||
| Lesco51 |
If converting to chain and the stock ratio for chain is 22/50 compared to stock belt of 27/61, if I want the bike tached out in fifth gear at the finish line (1/4 mile) what ratio would be the best, 24/54 ????? | ||
| Mikej |
That's a whole lot of shifting in a 1/4 mile. How about a 27/67 for .403 ratio, or 27/72 for a .375? If you're not redlining with the belt in the 1/4 then you need to drop down from the stock .44 ratio. Just an observation, I'll shut up now. | ||
| Lesco51 |
Divide the large sprocket by the small to get ratio, a 27/76 is 1:2.48, stock belt is 27/61 or 1:2.25, the higher the number the lower the gearing. Thanks for the answer, any observation is a good one. That's what this forum is about, to learn. I just wanted to see if anyone has already done this. | ||
| Blake |
Uh Les... you divided the small by the large. Strange math, that. You an accountant for Enron? | ||
| Lesco51 |
Very Funny!!! But no I divide the the large by the small,so 27/76 is a ratio of 1 to 2.81 not 1:2.48 as in previous post( sorry It was 2:am) so for one rev of the rear sprocket the front turns 2.81 times. Maybe I'll see you at Mt Mitchell on the parkway one day, the cops are really getting bad up there. | ||
| Blake |
uh Les, ya got yer denominators and numerators discombobulated mixed up like... 27/76=0.355 76/27=2.81 (like you said divide large by small) I still say yer an Enron accountant. | ||
| Lesco51 |
Well when you are right you are right, I did display them backwards. Anyway I ordered the new Baker conversion set today with 23/54 sprockets and offset spacers to run a 200 tire. Besides isn't Enron in Texas!!! see you on the parkway you can call me Lar | ||
| Jmartz |
After a long ride I noticed that the belt in my bike is missing a tooth. I was expecting the belt to last 60,000 miles, well, its dead at only 45,000 along with the isolators that while not broken are somewhat deformed. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I think 30,000 miles on a belt is about average. That's my average, anyway, and I'm on number three. That's with an understressed Sportster motor, of course.  | ||
| Jmartz |
Eric: You are amazing having put 120,000 Km on a Sportster. Vibration nor inclement weather must bother you much. Here I was sort of proud of my 45,000 miles but I tip my hat to you buddy, you are up there in milage accomplishment. There should be, like in a dyno, a correction factor for milage (kilometrage) accumulated. On a comfortable cruiser you get to multiply your number by .9 on a std. by 1 on a Sportster by 1.2 Jose  | ||
| Jsunstar |
is anyone that did the chain conversion using a tensioner block (or whatever the nylon block that keeps the chain from rubbing on the swingarm)? my chain is digging into the swingarm and i wanted to know what everyone has done to fix this... thanks Jason | ||
| Sportyeric |
Thanks, Jose. I am obliged to mention that those miles are generally accummulated with all my weight on the footpegs, as my thigh muscles provide the major part of the suspension. You lucky buggers. | ||
| Blake |
José, Brand new out of the box the isolators have that deformed/skewed look to them. I thought the same thing, that they were cylindrical when new, but low an behold the new ones come out of the box looking like they've been overstressed. They are designed that way. Who knew? | ||
| Jmartz |
Blake: I know about their "somebody stepped on them before they were dry" shape. If you look down the hole in a new one it is cylindrical with the walls a 90 degrees to the surface the bolt sits on. Mine have sekwed walls that are now leaning with respect to the bolt surface. They are not broken and do not show any other signs of wear. They are, however, mounted in the original way on to a "flush with the swingarm" block button. Newer buttons (or at least the ones I've worked on) stick out a bit past the SW block to provide compression in order to make things more rigid. jose | ||
| Blake |
That is a great description, "stepped on before they were dry". LOL. I'm going for a new set too, next time I have the swingarm bearings checked. | ||
| Westy01 |
I have a 97 M2 - assuming that it was never changed, what number of teeth do I have on my secondary drive pulley? 27 or 29? The bike seems to be revving pretty high at freeway speeds around 80 and I am trying to see how to lower them. Thanks - Matt | ||
| Mikej |
What revs/gear are you running at 80mph? You don't want to lounge along at less than 3,000rpm with these things. | ||
| Blake |
Stock is 29. | ||
| Court |
The stock 1997 M-2 will be showing about 4,000 RPM on the tach at 80. Court | ||
| Westy01 |
Alas, I am tachless. I don't have any idea how high I am revving, it just 'sounds' high when I am moving along. Probably paranoid, I just don't want to hurt the motor. | ||
| Court |
You are. You won't. Maintain your Buell by the book and, absent any gearing changes, I assure you that you'll never over-rev it (in 5th gear) at 80. One thing you will notice about the Buell is that it reaches a "happy spot" about 80. It's a very comfy place to ride. The next one occurs at 115, we'll dicuss that later.....er, on a closed course. Enjoy, Court | ||
| Buelliedan |
Actually my S3 finds its happy spot at 90-95mph. Cruised at that speed for almost 60 miles straight coming back from AZ a few weeks ago. That was nice. Of course that is with a 27 tooth sprocket and FI. | ||
| Blake |
When you find its happy spot, does a Buell react the same as a woman? | ||
| Court |
Do you really want ME to answer that? | ||
| Pgandeguy |
Hey, On my 2000 Blast with 700 miles I noticed a problem. Only about 3/4's of the belt is on the rear sproket. The other quarter is hainging off on the cover side. It is starting to wear the belt, and I dont want to break it. Any ideas on what causes this? Got any ideas on how to fix it? | ||
| Spike |
Today on the way home from work I snapped the drive belt on my '99 M2. I normally keep the belt pretty loose, but I do ride with a passenger quite a bit and I'm pretty hard on the bike/drivetrain. The bike has 13k battered miles on it, I guess it was just time. I'll be replacing the belt myself and I'd like to get started ASAP. I plan on upgrading to the '02 isolators while I'm in there, is there anything else I can/should upgrade/inspect/replace while I'm at it? Are there any alternative belts that may be stronger or should I just use a stock replacement belt? Any big tips for making the procedure easier on myself? Also, anyone know of any special tools I'll need? Many thanks in advance. Just in case he's reading this, many thanks to the guy on the Shadow who gave me a lift.  Mike L. '99 Cyclone | ||
| Spike |
Got the belt replaced with one minor problem: it says "Sportster" on it.  I had a question about belt tension though. I was under the impression that the belt should be kept really loose to avoid excess tension from the movement of the suspension. According to one of the mechanics at the local dealer, too loose is just as bad as too tight because it allows the belt to build slack. When popping the clutch or shifting hard the motor will take up the slack and put extra stress on the belt, causing it to snap. This makes sense to me, and my belt did snap when popping the clutch for a 2nd gear wheelie. My real problem with this is that having the belt adjusted so that it's loose when riding by myself means that the belt will be tight when I have a passenger. Adjusting the belt so that it's loose when I have a passenger means that the belt will be too loose when riding solo. Anyone have any suggestions? Mike L. '99 Cyclone | ||
| Ocbueller |
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that the Buell belts were not compatible with the Sportster. On the tension issue, I always ride solo so I am able to keep my tension constantly a little on the loose side on both my bikes with good results. SteveH |
