| Author | Message | ||
     Kenetiksoul |
Does an one know a good paint sprayer brand or type? I am looking at painting my 06 lightning and don't know where to start! Some one please help! | ||
| Buelltroll |
Binks | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
binks, thanks! | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
i looked into binks, wow they realy got a big thing going, is there any model you mite recomend? | ||
| Buelltroll |
Any gravity feed will do. | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
domo | ||
| Dentfixer |
I use a SATA, works great for me. High quality. | ||
| Bads1 |
Do you plan on painting often. Guns can cost a good Penny. So unless you intend to use it more often it might be beneficial to have a pro do it for you. A solid color in my area would maybe run me 350 or so. Just a thought. | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
thanks guys, i appreciate the timely feed back, think i will have to sleep on this one for a few more months..... always open minded-Kenso | ||
| Road_thing |
Bad is correct. Even more so if you don't already have a compressor, hoses, etc. Having said that, I've been using a no-name siphon gun for about 20 years that has served me well. It's got a Binks cup, otherwise it's a plain old $50 spray gun. I've done 3 cars, God only knows how many bikes, and the odd piece of furniture with it and I have no plans to replace it any time soon. My point being, you don't have to spend megabucks on a spray gun. rt | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
Hey Rt. thats grat addvice, I have been in what free time I have looking for alternit guns to use. This one you speak of, how and where was it abtained. Whats was it's primary function to start with, meaning, is it made for thicker paints or for vehicular use? Does it connect to an air hose, or some sucktion pump? I really like this idea, and finaly, what paint do you use, same qustions apply?. Domo, realy!Kenso | ||
| Road_thing |
Kenso: I bought it at an automotive paint shop in Bakersfield about 20 years ago, primary purpose was to shoot primer/surfacer and acrylic lacquer. It's an ordinary siphon-feed spray gun, it hooks to an air hose. I recommend a filter to take water out of the line, plus a pressure regulator. Mine seems to work best with thin paint at about 50-65 psi. YMMV. You really ought to have a hose dedicated to painting, so it won't have any traces of oil from air tools in it. Oil will mess up your paint job worse than you can imagine. I have sprayed primer, sealer, acrylic (lacquer and enamel), and base/clear systems through this gun with satisfactory (at least to me) results. I clean it out by running a cup or so of lacquer thinner through it after each use, and occasionally dismantle it completely for cleaning. I'm sure there are folks here (JB2?) who can chime in with a lot more knowledge than I have, but this has worked for me. Here's the last project I did with it:  rt | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
hey roudthing, yourbike looks great I hope mine comes out as nice. What would you say are the step, and principles to painting? Tips of the trade, don'ts, the prep needed, and some advice on equipment. I would like to get very serious about painting my bike, I have begun the purchasing process of suplys and would like your guidance. Much thanks, Domo-Kenso | ||
| Road_thing |
Kenso: Quick answer here, I'd be glad to visit off line if you need more info--ping me via my profile. 1) Strip everything off the body work that you don't intend to paint. You can mask, but it's never quite as nice. 2) Clean the bodywork thoroughly with (at the very least) strong detergent, or better yet, wax/silicon remover from your paint supplier. If you start sanding with wax or silicon protectant on the surface, you just grind it into the surface and it becomes almost impossible to get a good paint job. 3) Repair whatever needs repairing. I've had good luck using Bondo (or any generic body filler) but I haven't tried it on a plastic tank or tank cover, so YMMV. 3.5) Don't spray without some kind of respirator or mask. Ask you paint supplier. Forced-air breathers are best, but prohibitively expensive. Paper masks like people use when mowing their lawns probably are better thatn nothing, but some paint materials are pretty toxic. Be careful, you've only got one set of lungs! 4) Shoot everything with primer-surfacer. Wet sand starting with about 180 grit, work down to 320 or 400. You'll probably have to repeat this step a few times to get all the scratches and imperfections filled in. Patience is key here--primer is cheap and dries enough to sand in a half hour or so, so don't hesitate to go back and shoot another coat if it doesn't look right. You don't want a real thick layer of primer, but you want everything smooth and level. 5) When you're happy with your primer, wet sand to 600 and blow dry with air. wash thoroughly to get all the muddy sanded primer gunk off, then blow dry again. 6) Set everything up in the cleanest most dust-free area you have that's appropriate for spraying paint in--bear in mind that you're going to have a fair amount of overspray (you will have discovered that by now anyway, when shooting primer!) so your living room or kitchen is probably not a good spot. Ideally, you'd have a spray booth with filters and exhaust fans, but I've had good results in a closed garage. 7) Set everything up so you can reach all sides of it without having to move it. I absolutely guarantee that, no matter how careful you are, you'll put a fingerprint in your fresh paint if you have to move a wet piece to shoot the other side. If you hang it from a rafter, be aware that the stream from the spray gun will spin it like a pinata. 8) Wet the floor down to keep from kicking up any dust. Walls, too, if you can. I wouldn't do the ceiling, though--it'll drip on you for sure. Wipe everything off with a tack rag before you start shooting color or clearcoat. Your paint supplier will have tack rags. You may want to use a sealer over your primer if you're trying to cover a dark color with a light one--ask you supplier. 9) Try to spray when there's minimum wind and bugs. Nothing ruins your day like a big old daddy long-legs trying to crawl through your clearcoat or a moth fluttering on to your wet parts. 10) Shoot your base color coats (I'm assuming you'll be using a base/clearcoat system) and let them flash dry per the instructions on the can. Don't worry about gloss, they'll look matte until you shoot the clearcoat. Just get a good, uniform color coat(no primer showing through anywhere) with no runs or sags. Several thin coats are better than one thick coat. Don't let it run--if you have to sand a run or orange-peely area, you'll find the base coats are real soft and it's way too easy to cut through to the primer--then you're back to square one. 11) You can shoot the clear as soon as the base coats flash dry--usually 30 minutes or less, read the instructions. Again, lots of thin coats are best. You'll get the feel for it pretty quick. If you get lucky, you'll get a nice smooth finish without any need to wet sand, but in most cases I've had to let the first clear coats dry a couple of days, then wet sand starting with 400 or 600, finish with 1000 then shoot more clear. Keep doing this until you get a surface you're happy with, but don't let the paint get too thick. Develop a relationship with your paint store. They will almost certainly have everything you'll need in terms of supplies and equipment. They can really help you out, and every paint store I've dealt with has been extremely generous with their time and advice. They want your project to turn out well, so don't be afraid to ask them "stupid" questions--they're on your side. rt | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
Domo, roudthing, as always, domo! your a huge help. I will ping you but it may be a bit of time. I would like for this repore to develop, and for you so see the end result. I am confident that things will turn out. Keep on keepin on. Kenso | ||
| Thumper74 |
Prepare for it to suck! Your first time is going to look like ass unless you take your time. Read up and dedicate a week to doing it right! This is a quote from a post a few down that I left about painting XB body work. "Posted on Friday, September 28, 2007 - 11:12 am: -------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Use auto paints as they are harder, dry faster, are more UV resistant, etc. Napa can mix any color, put in hardeners and put it in a can, but you can also use a real spray gun. Just make sure your reducer/hardener is good for the temp range you?re spraing. You?ll need almost no paint, a pint would be more than enough. The worst thing aboot plastic painting is static. With these rigid pieces a flex agent is not required. Flex agents reduce adhesion and may lead to paint peeling, etc later. Cleanliness is the key. You'll want to wipe it down with a wax/grease remover. Scuff it down a Scotch brite pad and Comet. Let it air dry. After wax removal and scrubbing, do not handle the panels with bare hands, use powder free latex gloves. Wipe the panel down with a tack cloth. Spray your primer if you?re so inclined. Wait for it to dry and use some 1000 grit to lightly remove any dust that may have settled on the wet primer. Use another, fresh tack cloth to clean any dust, dirt, etc that has settled. Spray your color and wait the flash time. Wipe it down with another tack cloth. Spray a few more coats, but wait the flash time out. Follow the recommended time in the instructions included with the paint. Get yourself a foam rubber sanding block (3/8? thick and flexible) from the paint supply place. Get a bucket, put a couple drops of your favorite dish soap in there and use room temp water in the bucket (prevents thermal shock of the new paint). Now sand that color coat lightly with 1000 grit or finer, keep it wet and clean. Wipe the water off periodically and just sand until the color is uniformly dull. You do not want to remove any color, just make the surface uniformly smooth, but not to the primer. Spray one or two more color coats making sure to tack between coats. Follow the directions on the paint and the clear. Wipe it down with another fresh tack cloth and spray your clear, wait the flash time and repeat as desired. Remember, the more paint and clear, the more you risk the paint cracking, BUT the more material you have to work with for wet sanding and buffing the paint out. I like 3-5 coats of clear as it gives more working room at the edges and on ridges where the paint is thinner. You can follow the directions on the clear?s info and usually wet sand/buff within a few hours. This can make wet sanding super easy and you may go right through. I usually wait a few days and wet sand with a bare minimum of 1000 grit, switch to 1500 and finally 2000 if I want a super glassy, wet look. Remember, remove the minimum amount necessary to achieve a uniform dull, matte look when wet sanding and STOP! Remember, if your paint starts to look crappy in a few years, you could wet sand it again and buff the paint out to make it look new again! Ask your supply place about their least aggressive polishing compound and rub the paint out by hand. If there are swirls, you may want to use a glazing compound. Wait a few days to be sure that the solvents in the paint/clear will not react with the decals that you may want to install. Wait a few months before waxing. If in doubt, put your nose up to the panel and sniff it. If you can smell the paint, don?t wax it. Wax can seal the paint, preventing the solvents from evaporating which could cause the paint to lift." | ||
| Gohot |
pay close attention to the breathing apparatus for painting, you may think "just once" but I personally know a fellow that does the funky chicken when he walks or does just about anything, caused from inhilation of fumes from only 2 years of pro painting.....no that wasn't very proffesional not to use a breathing apparatus. |
