| Author | Message | ||
     Kenb |
has anyone done this without removing the clutch ? have to remove mine cause the centering spring broke but it looks like the clutch has to be removed to get the shaft out | ||
| Firemanjim |
IIRC it can be finessed in and out w/o removal of clutch but one fastener was hard to get at. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Just pull the clutch assembly, no need to pull it apart. Pull the stator, primary chain and the clutch hub at the same time. It only takes a few minutes if you have the locking bar. | ||
| Fasted |
who sells the locking bar??? can one be fabbed? what material?? | ||
| Kenb |
there are 2 nuts that hold the shaft base plate to the case, i was thinking if i remove those 2 studs that the nuts are on i could finesse it out as Jim suggests. Thanks for your input. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Fabricated is a strong word for it. I took a piece of scrap U channel aluminum that had been pulled from an old house when we took off the sliding closet doors. Cut it to "about the right length" and smashed it flat in the vice, and used it for many primary disassembles since (all on the M2). So just use a soft metal (softer then the steel sprocket, so aluminum or brass is probably best). I have heard a towel can be used in a pinch as well, just get it "tangled" in there to pull tight. | ||
| Fasted |
reep, how long is the piece? | ||
| Jackbequick |
It needs to be about 4-1/8" in length. A piece of metal flat bar about 1/4" thick, 1 to 1-1/2" wide and 4-1/8" long will make a perfect locking bar. Slightly round the ends so they sort of match the radius of the sprocket gullets and you're in business. I made mine out of a piece of 1/4" thick laminated fibreglas scrap from a dumpster at a boat manufacturing plant. And it is plenty strong enough. Jack | ||
| Fasted |
jbq, thanks for the measurements and info |
