Author |
Message |
Westy01
| Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 03:02 pm: |
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I couldn't really get a good sense from the archives whether or not getting a Corbin seat for my 97 M2 is worth it. Is it? And if so, where's the best place to buy them? Directly from Corbin? ASB? Thanks - Matt |
X1glider
| Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 04:07 pm: |
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Skully, did you ever remove your Xroads solo rearsets? If so, do you want to sell them? How long have you had them and what condition are they in? I tried a direct e-mail to you but got it back. Update your profile with the new address if you have one. |
Loki
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 12:26 am: |
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The next experiment with my M-Deuce is about to begin.....My new bars showed up today. Not as high as the stock and not as radical as the crossroads This task will be accompanied with photos in the near future |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 12:45 am: |
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Scott: Try the stock bars. With the wind in your face they provide a much needed forward tilt and a far more comfortable ride than the ape hangerish touring bars. Your sense of control will be much improved with the stock bars as well. You may actually find yourself wanting a set of clipons. |
Loki
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 12:14 pm: |
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Check that bar mod for now I have to send them back. They sure do look nice though, except for one little thing. It was made with 1 inch vs 7/8 inch stock.. Any bets on how long(in weeks) its gonna take? Took over five for this set. |
Westy01
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 01:12 pm: |
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Will any HD grips fit on my 97 M2? |
Mikej
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 01:38 pm: |
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Westy, No. Your M2 probably has a 7/8"diameter handlebar, the H-D's (and S2's) have 1" diameter handlebars. |
V2win
| Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 11:06 pm: |
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Does anyone know the part number for the pin that screws in the bottom of a S3 seat? Its the one the latch locks onto. The dealer here can not come up with a part number. I cant beleive that you would have to make one or buy anothe seat if you just needed that 7/16" diameter pin. Thanks. |
Matty
| Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 12:51 am: |
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John, the part number for that pin is a little difficult to find. Some years of the S3 parts manuals don't have that little bugger listed. Email me a reminder and I'll get the number for you in the A.M. |
Bomber
| Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 09:16 am: |
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Loki . . . bummer . . .don't those goobers know that hunnerds of sale hinge on your complete and total satisfaction with the bars? (well, one anyway) . . . . . got my fingers crossed for you |
Loki
| Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 09:37 am: |
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Bomber, me too! He was pretty apologetic about the whole thing. I also learned that he took the biz over from his deceased father. I don't think he is used to running the actual biz yet. More than likely he was working for him and got this dumped in his lap unexpectedly not all that long ago. the tell tale sign are apparent now. Well anyway before I had noticed that the it was wrong. I kinda set them in place and looked at them with the stock ones. Then got to thinking A couple little tidbits got noticed. The ones I ordered are actually a full two inches wider. So as I could cut them down some. But! Now from the looks, I am gonna try mounting the CRG mirrors right to the bar(both sides)and maybe try some end weights(for vibe dampening). The numbers I used for the alterations don't look so radical on paper. Setting it next to the new one though....I am gonna need to take plenty of pics to post. They may come in handy for those who follow. Back into wait mode. The bow went into the mail yesterday. He won't ship the new set until the old set hits his door. Loki |
Bomber
| Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 10:01 am: |
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i guess if that's the case, it's kinda tough to nbe too angry, yes? sounds like a tough way to inherit a business . . . . . i look forward to the pics, as i've exhausted just about every off the shelf bend I can find, and none come close to what I want . . . . . . good luck to you, and, of course, the new business owner . . . . |
Jrh
| Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 10:47 am: |
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Loki Im real interested on what you come up with on the bars.Ive got a Y2000 M2 and have also been trying to find a set about half as high as stock. On everything ive seen,the handlebar mounted electrical switch+throttle housing hit the stock 5 gallon gas tank.Im using Duc monster bars that are just what i want,but i had to switch to a 4 gal.tank.Please keep us updated on what you come up with+thanks. John |
Loki
| Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2002 - 12:56 am: |
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All, Seems this is going to be fun. Maybe take some real good pica and write the entire thing up and see if Reg wants it for B2W. Bomber, Hit it sq on the head, can't get mad. I was just getting a little frustrated. Now being in the know my attitude has changed. JRH, I think the numbers I used will be close. Tank clearance was a factor that was considered. |
Rgvtxs3t
| Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 01:06 am: |
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Does anybody else have problems with wrist pain from the Buell's handlebars? I have a '99 S3T that I use often for road trips lasting several days. I have tried Gel grips, Gel gloves, a Throttle rocker, and a Throttlemiser. Nothing works. I just got back from a long weekend trip and my throttle hand hurts to the point of considering getting rid of the bike. Does anyone have any possible fixes for this? Is this a vibration problem or a handlebar angle problem? |
Loki
| Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 09:51 am: |
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RGV, Go sit on your bike and look at the angle of your wrists. For me it is the angle of my wrists that causes me the most discomfort. Loki I am working on a project for this. Just waiting for the new bar to show up again. |
X1glider
| Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 03:54 pm: |
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Rgvtxs3t, I don't know about the S3T bars but I'll tell you how your wrists should line up to be biomechanically neutral and therefore more comfortable and strongest. Anything less than this will cause problems resemblant to carpal tunnel syndrome to those who type for living. Extend your arm straight out with a fist. Visualize a line straight down your arm and going thru your 1st and 2nd knuckles. Now rotate your fist about your arm's axis while keeping this alignment so that your 1st and 2nd knuckles are parallel to the horizon. This is your biomechanically correct neutral wrist position. This is what you want when punching someone. But since we don't ride "straight armed" you will need to bend your body forward and elbows out for the correct riding postion, then do the same measurement. Draw a line thru your grip. This will determine the sweep and droop (droop for lack of the correct term) you need on the bars. Now, all you have to do is find the bar that will do this for you. Me? I take a 3 degree sweep, 2 degree droop from the aforementioned bending over of the body and bending of the elbows. Unfortunately, I don't have these bars either. |
Rgvtxs3t
| Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 11:30 pm: |
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Thanks for the feedback. That sure clears things up for me. I looked at the bars in "American Sport bike." Has anyone had any luck with them? I have also seen fully adjustable bars for ST 1100s. Anybody know if anything exists like that for the S3T? I'll stop by my dealer tomorrow to see if he has any tricks. |
M2me
| Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2002 - 07:08 pm: |
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I am trying to install a pair of Emgo bar ends on my 2001 M2 (they came with no instructions). I got the left side on in a matter of minutes. I was able to pry out the plastic end plug with a flat screwdriver. My question is: How do you do the throttle side? I have tried prying on what looks to be another plastic plug but it won't budge. I don't want to wreck the throttle grip. How do you get that plastic plug out of there? Thanks in advance John |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 05:32 am: |
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Also... Adjust your brake and clutch levers according to best ergonomic fit. You will be surprised at how far downwards the levers may need to go. Having to reach up and over to grab the clutch or brake levers will put a BUNCH of stress on the tendons in your wrist area, not to mention it tends to work the throttle. |
M2me
| Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 08:43 pm: |
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OK, if no one will answer my question I'll answer it myself. Just keep prying! I finally discovered that I could get the plastic plug to turn in the handlebar. Once I did that it popped out. The throttle side must have been glued in there better than the clutch side was and I was afraid that there might be some elaborate trick to get it out. Anyway, I got both ends in and took it for a short 20 mile ride. I am not sure if they are really "anti-vibration". The buziness usually does not start to bother my hands until after 70 miles or so. But it sort of felt like there was less vibration. I think they look cool anyway. |
Roadrunr
| Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 10:13 pm: |
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M2ME; There really are no anti-vibration bar ends that work in a buell. Just buy better grips. |
Loki
| Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 12:00 am: |
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M2Me Gel grips and a set of gloves with gel inserts in the palms. Works for me. Loki All I want for summer is my new damm handlebar! |
Blake
| Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 10:08 am: |
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If you have noticeable/irritating vibs in your handlebars, you might try loosening and then retightening your exhaust system, working inwards from both ends (cylinder heads and rear muffler) and finishing at the header/muffler joint making sure it is not in a bind. If that doesn't help, you might try some bar-ends. The added mass will reduce the natural frequency of vibration of the handlebars, as will filling the bars with lead shot as some have done. The lead shot also has a damping effect. |
Sarodude
| Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 11:19 am: |
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After my almost near miss a couple of weeks ago my wrists (especially the right one) have not been the same. The doc says it's from squeezing the brake THAT ONE TIME. Uh, this is LA. I have to squeeze the crap outta the brakes on an almost daily basis. I usually then do a one fingered stretch to help loosen those muscles... I think the minimal impact (possibly along with the full on squeeze) did some unhappy stuff. I can't even lift a 5 pound weight without serious pain. Any advice? -Saro |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 12:42 pm: |
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Saro, I'm no doc, but Ibuprofin works wonders. A fairly standard arthritis dose is 800mg 3 times a day. With OTC brands that's 4 200mg tabs at a shot. It will knock down the inflamation and let it heal. When you take a big dose like this you MUST eat someting or wash them down with a glass of milk. If you don't you will probably mess up your stomach. I had problems with my wrist after a get off on inline skates. My doc recommended the above dosage. I didn't really think it was doing much until I stopped taking the ibuprofin after a few days. It started hurting like hell again. I went back on the ibu for about 2 weeks and all was well again. Check with your doc and see if the above is OK. Good luck. Brad |
Roadrunr
| Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 12:10 am: |
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c'mon guys...it's a freakin harley motor.it's gonna vibrate unless you put rice in your frame. |
Road_Thing
| Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 08:16 am: |
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Saro- Suck it up, dude, you'll just have to be abstinent for a while! |
Roc
| Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 09:59 pm: |
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Can anyone recommend a set of 1" grips that do not have any chrome on them? I tried for a pair of the foam type from ASB but they will be out for a month or so and I don't want to wait. Thanks |
Josh
| Posted on Saturday, May 11, 2002 - 11:11 pm: |
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Just installed a used 01 shift kit on my 99 S3T. Has anyone else "upgraded" theirs? It seems very stiff compared to the stock one. No play, but no give either. The instructions had me tightening the bolt holding the pivot into tthe primary cover to 27ft/lb but I stopped short of full torque as (unless my torque wrench has gone flakey) that seems awfully tight for going into aluminum threads. Josh |