| Author | Message | ||
     Blackm2 |
Hi all, relatively new here. Had my 2001 M2 since August and I LOVE it. Not necessarily a question pertaining to my bike but when my clutch disengages, as in when I release my lever, the bike starts moving right upon release. I have no problem with that. My girlfriend, has an '07 Sporty 883, on hers the disengagement is at the end of the clutch travel. She does have a problem with that, and I do to when I get on it from time to time. Is my clutch going out soon or what? I like that mine lets loose at the beginning of the release(of the clutch lever)  Thoughts? | ||
| Eboos |
Your clutch should be in the friction zone about half way through the lever travel. If you have a service manual, adjust the clutch (under the derby cover, not the cable) to proper specs. If you don't have a manual, you should find the proper adjustment here somewhere. | ||
| Ratbuell |
+1 on adjustment. I like my bikes to engage closer to the grip than most folks so I usually tweak it after a service...but it's all easy to do. | ||
| Blackm2 |
Excellent, thanks guys! | ||
| Iamike |
I found that if it is that loose, it also makes the bike harder to get in neutral. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: You for got to tell BlackM2 about replacing the SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90 with one FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 and two STEEL PLATE PN 37913-90 makes for a better longer lasting clutch ... A good test for a dragging clutch is to put transmission in low gear, pull clutch, and push starter button(ignition on) ... If the bike lurtch'es excessively the clutch is in need of adjustment ... If you want to fine tune the clutch release, get a KAWASAKI clutch lever PN 13236-1185 ... The NEW 1125R has a similar adjustable clutch lever ... Of the three pins on the clutch lever, the outside pins work for the clutch switch ... ADJUST the clutch on the #5 setting and then put on the number 1 thru 4 for the best finger/clutch release feel ... If you want an easier pulling clutch, check out www.easypullclutch.com ... If you want a adjustable front brake lever a KAWASAKI front brake lever PN 46076-1165 works which is similar the the FRONT BRAKE LEVER on the NEW 1125R ... In BUELLing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on November 10, 2007) | ||
| Blackm2 |
That actually brings up another question Buellistic. My bike will not start while in gear, it must be in neutral. No matter if I have the clutch lever pulled. Is that a safety feature? I don't have the owners manual, just a service manual. | ||
| Sparky |
That's not a safety feature if you have to take time trying to find neutral to start. That could be dangerous in traffic. If it doesn't start with the clutch pulled in, then part of your starter interlock is not working. Look up starter interlock troubleshooting in the service manual. There could be an inoperative clutch switch, bad diode, miswire or broken wire somewhere. | ||
| Jamesscavies |
Mine would not start unless it was in neutral also. I pulled the clutch switch plug off of the clutch lever and jumped the contacts together and it fired up in gear. I ended up just cutting the wires and soldering them together under the tank. Be sure to use shrink wrap on the wires if you do this. | ||
| Blackm2 |
I agree totally Sparky. It's happened a couple times already! Thanks for the tips everyone, I will investigate and let you know what's up. | ||
| Buellistic |
Blackm2: BAD CLUTCH SWITCH ??? In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Blackm2 |
Yea Buellistic, actually that's what I'm thinking now after fiddling with it a bit today. I'll see if my local dealer has one in stock(doubtful) this week. Thanks! |
