| Author | Message | ||
     Mikef5000 |
So despite hanging off (and dragging knees) I found I still was grinding my toe sliders. (And before it gets mentioned, my toes were not hanging off or sticking out, because I was also dragging the side of the boots back by the heel, and the upper side of the boots above the ankle) I wore completely through the thick plastic toe slider and into the leather in one track day. I found replacement toe sliders for $4 a set, so I picked up 5... (hopefully that will get me through a couple years) But I'm still curious about reinforcing them. If I were to drill and thread some holes and stretigically place some threaded rod in there, that would effectively make them last much longer, correct?  Any bad side-effects from doing this? While titanium would be fun, I think I'd just get some steel rod from the hardware store. Thoughts? How about drilling and inserting said threaded rod into my knee pucks for a certain event down in the beautiful north Georgian mountains. Yay or Nay? Sorry, I'm bored, so my mind is wandering. | ||
| Brinnutz |
Magnesium?!?!?!? | ||
| Trojan |
Sounds great until you bang your foot (or knee) hard enough to drive the pins into your foot or leg. DIY safety equipment should be avaoided if possible and there are plenty of 'sparky' titanium embedded sliders on teh market without resorting to trying to make some. If you are dragging your boots above the ankle then I would suspect that you foot position is wrong on the bike, you have very wide feet or you are falling off a lot. Ride with the ball of your feet on the peg, not your instep. | ||
| New12r |
I had similar problems at Barber and Little Tally.  | ||
| Slaughter |
Your profile shows you have an M2 GET REARSETS NOW! IF you are riding with the stock footpegs, don't mess with boots, you're riding beyond the bike's lean angle. I'm assuming you have boots with replaceable toe sliders? Buy extras and go ahead and spend the bucks on true rearsets. | ||
| Slaughter |
Also, are your feet in the proper position on the pege? The balls of the feet on the pegs, NOT the arches? You should be standing on "tip toes." | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I was on the balls of my feet. That was one thing we kept discussing before and after each session. I KNOW I was on the balls of my feet. GET REARSETS NOW! NO! Because I already have them!  Sounds great until you bang your foot (or knee) hard enough to drive the pins into your foot or leg. Yes, I thought about that. Since the materials I'd be drilling them into aren't soft, I didn't think hitting them would drive the pins in. Solid plastic wouldn't have enough give to it to allow the pins to move much more than a tiny fraction of an inch. But I'm not positive.... which is why I posted here. | ||
| Knickers |
I had the same problem with my S3 and Banke rearsets. It seems that although they put your feet higher and more rearward, they are also wider than the stock pegs. I ruined one pair of boots and went through so many sliders I got fed up and used layers of duct tape that I'd re-apply as necessary. Titanium sliders wore through faster than plastic so they were no help. On thing that did help - I got a set of the millennium X1 aluminum pegs and cut them in half. That brought me feet in about an inch on each side of the bike. Soon though I was using that extra lean angle and grinding the sliders again but at that point I was grinding hard parts on the chassis as well. The final fix? I bought an XB9R. Kurt (Message edited by knickers on November 06, 2007) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I got a set of the millennium X1 aluminum pegs and cut them in half. I just got the X1 pegs, and I was looking into cutting them down. Do you have any pictures of yours??? | ||
| Diablobrian |
with a little heat from grinding metal pins will push through that plastic like it's butter. | ||
| Rick_a |
Buells are very wide at the footpeg mounts. I'm a fairly average rider and pretty much wasted a set of toe sliders on my first track day. I used the Buell Racing rearsets (these mount to the engine) and a set of lowering mounts set upside down (raises pegs another 3/4"). I like the metal peg idea. Unfortunately the bottom of one boot got beveled pretty bad, too. Shoe Goo might be good for repairing boots and reinforcing worn sliders. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
with a little heat from grinding metal pins will push through that plastic like it's butter. But they're embedded in the plastic like so:  With solid plastic around them, how will they push anywhere? | ||
| Schmitty |
First things first, what kind of boots are you using. If they are Alpinestars, I have two words for ya, Magnesium Sliders. Five times the durability, and no sparks. I used to burn thru the plastic ones in a session or two, but not with these. Speaking of sparks, be careful if you're going to make your own. Some organizations do not allow ANYTHING that throws sparks, and this includes Titanium. My final suggestion would be to look at your body position. If you're dragging your toes that much, you're using a lot of your bikes available lean angle and not leaving yourself much room for error. Try getting off the bike a little more, and lean the bike a little less. Just my 2 cents. Schmitty | ||
| Mikef5000 |
They are out-dated but new Teknic boots. I absolutely love them, and they were a killer price... but they only have the plastic toe sliders available. I felt I was really hanging off, but have no pictures to prove that. I will be working on hanging off more. | ||
| Rocketsprink |
Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I've had the same sliders for 2 years. Here's a close up of my foot position.  I race, so I use the crap out of the boots too. | ||
| Slaughter |
You have the exact same Banke full rearsets that I do on my S3 streetbike. It IS a wider bike (the S3) and it'd be interesting to look at the angle compared to the XB. I don't push the S3 around any more so I don't have more thoughts. I only use the XB on the track. I'd think that if you have replaceable toe sliders, see if they also sell Ti sliders - also why not just try the bolts like you were thinking. I don't think they'll be on the ground long enough at any one time to re-heat and melt. Give it a shot. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I've had the same sliders for 2 years. Here's a close up of my foot position. Very different bikes with Very different foot locations would be my argument. I've noticed, like many have posted, my rearsets are VERY wide. I will be the first to say that you (as a racer) would NOT be the one doing something wrong. I'm sure with more effort, I can squeeze my feet in a bit more, and hang off a bit more. But to further prove my feet were not hanging off... I ground the end off of the foot peg! Not the curb feeler on the bottom.... but THE END of the peg! I'll see if I can post up some pictures of the boots and pegs later. | ||
| Diablobrian |
maybe a hard epoxy build-up on an old slider? or epoxy a ceramic insert? you'd be amazed how easily hot metal will displace plastic. I'ts a little harder than pushing a hot coat hanger into wax, but not too much harder. I have some pieces of delrin that I use to make axle sliders and such. I use round stock, but I'm sure that someone sells bar stock on ebay. once again shape to suit and either attach to stock mounts or epoxy on to make a thicker slider. Delrin and similar high density plastics are great to work with. The cut, file and even polish up very easily, but provide a low friction surface as a slider. | ||
| Schmitty |
Exactly, thanks Rocket! I wasn't getting off the bike far enough, which was causing me to drag my toes and pegs. Then at the suggestion of a few of my new Buell racing buddies (you know who you are  ), I adjusted my body position so that now I'm dragging my knee instead of my toes. That being said the Buell XB is capable of some incredible lean angles!! | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I'm dragging my knee instead of my toes See, I would love to do that! But I was dragging my knee, my toe, my ankle, my peg, that bolt that holds the shifter, and my kickstand. All at the same time. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
I was dragging my knee, my toe, my ankle, my peg, that bolt that holds the shifter, and my kickstand. All at the same time.  That is Schweeet!!!!! | ||
| Schmitty |
Mike, that's why I said check your body position. If you get your body off of the bike further you won't need to be draggin the hard parts. If you're leaning that far over, what happens if you suddenly need to tighten up your line? You lean it in a little further and that bolt that holds the shifter, and your kickstand touch down hard and lever your rear tire off the ground. Then the next mark you leave on the road or track is from your helmet!!! You're just not leaving yourself much of an escape route. Have you ever seen Noriyuki Haga ride? He's so far off the inside of the bike that it's barely leaned over. I know this has gotten way off of the topic you originally posted, but I'm only trying to make a couple of suggestions to minimize your problem.  Schmitty | ||
| Mikef5000 |
That is Schweeet!!!!! I agree! But my boots, shifter bolt, and kickstand, think otherwise. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Then answer you seek is in Total Control...... | ||
| Bad_karma |
Mike Suspension setup for your weight? Joe | ||
| Djkaplan |
You really got to be hanging off on an M2 to drag a knee. Shifting a butt cheek won't do it unless you got a huge butt. Mike is so light, he could probably hang off the wrong side and the bike wouldn't notice it much. Mike... act your age and start hanging off like a mofo. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Then answer you seek is in Total Control...... Step one of preparing for a corner is adjust your feet. I've memorized the steps. I love that book. Suspension setup for your weight? It was NOT at that track day. Well, it was setup for me on the street, where I require a degree of comfort/cushyness. I did not adjust it for the track like I should have.} | ||
| Josh_ |
Post a pic of your body position in a corner (if you have one) Here's a good way to drag toes and hard parts well before you actually need to:  Rocket - can you post an uncropped version of your pic? | ||
| Eboos |
I also have a M2 with rearsets (Crossroads, not Banke). I too have a tendency to drag my peg/toe. I sure feel like I am getting off the bike enough, but the peg and toe still go down. I find that this happens the most in turn 6 at NHIS (long, fast, banked left hander). The position of the pegs is very wide and limiting the clearance. My kickstand comes off when I am on the track, but I found a simple fix for more clearance on the street. Just take off the bumper and let the stand fold up all the way to the frame. Problem solved there. | ||
| Rick_a |
That's not quite fair...Firebolts have a lot more lean angle before they start dragging hard parts than tubers...even when the tubers have rearsets, as most tuber rearsets set the pegs wider than the stockers. Even my Buell rearsets are 1" wider (on the left side only, annoyingly). Anyone who's been to the Thunderbike or Pro Thunder races of old could tell you that. Just about everyone used billet pegs cut in half and cut down brake and shift knobs...for good reason. Turns 11 and 12 at Jennings had me draggin' the peg, shifter, and boot. They are fast, off camber lefts. I was using the instructors tips (Jeff Wood) who recommended hanging off with the lower body only , and by only one cheek, for better stability. Next time I'll try hanging off by whatever feels best. |
