| Author | Message | ||
     Bertotti |
So with the possibility of changing the front to the 1125 you guys who want more to the front are golden but, what do those of us that want stronger rear brakes do? I want more rear braking power, if I can lock it up with some effort all the better. (Message edited by bertotti on November 06, 2007) | ||
| Cyclonedon |
try this link: http://www.britnett-carver.co.uk/trojanhorse/prods /278.html I never tried these but I did find the website. | ||
| Gotj |
FYI, the kit is about $468 plus shipping. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
The first step I'd use would be to replace the stock pads with Lyndalls or something similar. Easy change. Low cost. They are great for increasing he front stopping power. I'd say that they would have similar benefits for the rear. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Lyndalls are all you need for the rear to bring the brakes to life. The actually work, have a nice progressive control to them and actually gain feel for playing in the dirt. | ||
| Bertotti |
I like the way the stock front works and haven't felt the need for lyndall up there but I will give them a shot. I may go the brembo route if they do not pan out. Thanks for the help everyone. | ||
| Jlnance |
Lyndal came out with an improvement to the "gold" pad. I'm interested to hear feedback from anyone who has tried them. | ||
| Teeps |
I personally don't understand why anyone would want more rear braking power; but, have you considered a longer brake pedal (increase leverage)? | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Just throwing this out there,,,YMMV,,,so a grain or two of salt may be necessary for consumption  A spongy, non-responsive, wooden feeling, rear brake is a very good friend if you're railing in the twisties. A sensitive, over-responsive, strong rear brake will put you on your side, head, side, head, side, ditch in the blink of an eye. I recommend that rear brake changes be approached with caution. The above $.02 brought to you by side, head, side, head, side, ditch. | ||
| Xbimmer |
I just replaced my front Golds with the new ones, they seem cleaner and the feel seems more positive than the first Golds although that may have been because I put 20k on that first set. Although break-in isn't "required" Al @ American Sport Bike suggested it anyway, easy enough to do. I replaced the rears a few months ago, after discussing with Al my preferences I went with the Ferodo Platinums he sells. They work well especially two-up without the wooden block feel of the stockers, but no tendency to grab. They were pretty noisy at first though, lots of squeal until they broke in. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Bigdaddy is correct. The rear brake should be used as a means to stabilize the bike when doing low speed maneuvers or if you are riding on loose or slick surfaces. Otherwise, leave that sucker alone. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
At the Novice meeting before my track day they spent a good 10 minutes trying to convince everyone to NEVER TOUCH THE REAR BRAKE! I did anyway because I'm a rebel! But I don't feel the need for any more brake power from back there. | ||
| Bertotti |
I don't do tack days and really have no desire to do so. I wouldn't know where to go around here anyway. I do like fire roads and light single track. I like fields and more ds oriented endeavors cautiously. I like slow speed maneuvers and that is exactly why I want more rear brake. Yes I will have a better equipped tool for my off road endeavors but I want the control I get with a strong ass rear brake for the type of riding I do. Let me nail the rear brake kick the rail out and throttle up in a nice dirt turn. I could care less if it isn't the right tool for the job. I have been know to use channel locks as a hammer on occasion. I do appreciate the concern and think it is valid to point the limitations out because not everyone is an experienced rider and rear brakes could quite literally get you killed if used at the wrong time or speed. For what it's worth a friend of mine has me dreaming of a KTM dirt bike that is just street legal enough to get me to the boonies and back. (Message edited by bertotti on November 06, 2007) | ||
| Bearly |
Mine works fine for me. Even if have to have too much rear brake trailing in (oh sh*%, Oh Sh(#), It seems it's just the right amount. It's (different pads) nice to have an option though. And any time I want if I need to lock up the rear, say to swing the back around to line up for something, it seems easy to do on the pavement or dirt. I wouldn't change a thing. Of course, mine is Yellow, which could be the difference :-) (Message edited by Bearly on November 06, 2007) (Message edited by Bearly on November 07, 2007) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Ahhhh. Well then. I'd try performance pads and new fluid (if you haven't changed it within the past year). And after that look at aftermarket caliper options. | ||
| Bertotti |
I'm not going to replace the Uly but I am going to leave the brakes alone except for I'll try the Lyndalls. I will save the money for a KTM dirt bike instead. I'll haver much more fun with it. Uly will be relegated to street only use. Bummer, I hope Buell does make a more dirt oriented version soon. | ||
| Karlsbad |
IMHO Bigdaddy nailed it. Slide with throttle(Little brake) Slow & Stop w/Front Brake Control and setup with rear(Trail) that is what I was taught, seems to work for me | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I have to disagree with those who said don't touch the rear brake. The problem I found with them stock was they were on or off. Either no brake or locked. That was useless on the street and offroad. The Lyndalls made the rear progressive with great feeling so I can control my low speed maneuvering in town and also use them more effectively in the dirt. On the track I never used it at all as they recommended, and on the street I only use it to keep the habit of using both brakes for maximum stopping power. It's not a matter of the power it has or not, but the lack of effectiveness that the stock pads didn't offer. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
John, I wouldn't hold my breath on a more dirt worthy version. I could be very wrong on this, but there would simply be too many changes required. Larger front wheel would require a massive change in the front fork angle or longer fork or both. The engine gearing would need to be changed to at least the 9 gearing if not lower. The weight is already an issue for any serious dirt. An all new wheel would need to be designed to accommodate new rear rubber. I just think that there is too far to go to be workable. It wasn't designed to be a single track bike. It's a street bike with light dirt cred. | ||
| Bertotti |
Yea but I was hopeful, Ft_bstrd I knew that going in and some comments from eh sales rep inflated my opinion of it's capabilities. I do love the bike but it is a shame I didn't know of this site before the purchase or things may have been different. Either way I will now have two great bikes. I'm not a knee dragger but I like the spirit of the Uly and hopefully come spring a nice dirt ktm will be sitting right by it. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I'm looking at a two bike solution as well. The Uly is so good and comfortable on the street, it's all I want or need. I want a DS 250/450 that is strictly dirt. Anything attempting to merge the two, to me, compromises the performance in both arenas. | ||
| Bertotti |
I still want some better ds tire for the Uly though. I wont always be taking a dirt bike where I go for rides and when the nice fire road pops up on the Uly or not I'm there. My only want is what ever dirt bike I go for it will be street legal so I can use it both ways or to the gas station etc... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I think well be seeing a more dirt worthy tire in 17 180 sizes soon. With the Tiger, Versys, Uly, and MS, there are more dual sports on the market with 17 inch wheels. Someone will step up. | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Teeps. I'm with you. The rear brake I have is more than enough. | ||
| Murraebueller |
The rear brake is fine for me as it is in the dirt, on the street or track. We will hopefully see some 180/17 DS tires soon. Pirelli will make the MT60 Corsa if they can sell 5000 sets a year. My solution is a Uly, a TT and an XR650L. | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
I remember quite a long time ago I posted about wanting more rear brake. And I got hammered, everyone saying I'm a dumb ass and I shouldn't use the rear brakes etc. Of coarse they all didn't know that not everyone rides the same, and rides the same environment. Growing up on dirtbikes, racing arena cross, and riding trails, the rear brake was my friend. Then moving to BMX where all I have was rear brake. The fact of the matter is I know how to maneuver a motorcycle taking full advantage of a locked rear wheel. If I am on fairly hard packed dirt and have to focus too much energy on locking the rear tire to slide into the position I want it throws my balance way off. Don't knock people and assume they aren't riding correctly if they want some brake in the rear. The fact of the matter is a lot of us dirt oriented riders are use to easy lock up, and the more availability of control by knowing where your thresholds are in the brakes increases your ability to ride much more confidently. (Message edited by Terrible1One3 on November 12, 2007) | ||
| Bertotti |
Terrible1one3, either they get it or they don't. I've stopped even bothering with the anti rear brake posts. I find they are completely side tracking my quest. I still want a more dirt oriented ride but for the times I'm on fire roads or gravel or just off road I want the rear brakes better. I won't always be on a dirt bike when I find some off pavement I want to explore. | ||
| Debueller |
I totally agree with the camp that wants to use the rear brake to lock the wheel. There has been many times when on gravel, and fully loaded with camping gear, that it seems to take an excessive amount of pressure to get the rear wheel to lock. It can be very diffcult to lock the back tire in order to get the rear end to behave like it should when riding fast on gravel and turning corners, especially when going downhill. I was brought up on dirt bikes, BMX, and mountain bikes and the rear brake IS your friend when off road......particulary on a heavy bike with a squirlery 17" front tire. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Well, there you have it. If you're riding off road, and using the rear brake to slide the bike, then I can see where you need a strong rear brake. I don't ride off road much, but when I have, I have not noticed it being hard to lock the rear, but it does feel pretty wooden on the street, which is the way I like it. I also have a Jeep, and I read the Jeep forums quite a bit. There are a small number of people who think IFS (independent front suspension) is horrible because it hurts your ground clearance off road. They raise all sort of hell because Jeep has put IFS on some of their vehicles. BUT....IFS makes the Jeep ride and handle SO much better on the road, where 99% of all owners use them. I think Buell took the same approach as Jeep. They knew that 99% of the owners would never ride the bike off road, and decided to build a bike focused where the majority of their customers would ride them. If you want a more powerful rear brake, I'm willing to bet you could scare up a larger diameter master cylinder for the rear and get all the wheel locking power you could ever want. | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
Chadhargis, we understand this, that is why we inquire about upgrading the braking  . | ||
| Bertotti |
I'm not trying to be harsh I know you all are just looking out for us. I just like to lock the rear up when I need to, which I should have been clearer is on loose stuff off road or on gravel and dirt roads. I don't get crazy, I'm not good enough for that but the extra control helps. |
