| Author | Message | ||
     Djkaplan  |
I knew the PN was at the top of the page, but I was confused when my order sheet didn't have the same number. I'll let you know what the deal is when the part comes in. I have a funny feeling about this though. The parts guy wasn't aware of the old shoe faliure problems and he wasn't aware the old shoe had been superceded by one with a thicker backing plate. We'll see. Thanks! | ||
| Sportyeric  |
I'm pretty sure that what you've ordered is the plastic shoe alone, worth about five bucks, right? The "adjuster assembly" will include the metal plate (which is broken, of course) and the threaded part, which, I believe, is firmly connected to the metal plate, and costs about $17. Although a "shoe assembly" might be the plastic and the metal plate but without the threaded part. How do they fasten together? | ||
| Djkaplan |
I think your right Eric. I was depending on the parts guy to get this right, my mistake. | ||
| Captainkirk  |
DJ- what you want is P/N 39975-90A. This is the shoe/adjuster assembly and was about fifteen bucks when I purchased it last summer. | ||
| 99x1  |
"..., but what is the PN for the good shoe assembly. I ordered one from the Harley dealer and the order slip had PN#39922-00Y on it." Picked up a new primary chain tensioner from HD yesterday - "39975-90A Chain Adjuster Assy" for $23.95 CDN (~$20 US). The plastic shoe part has 39966-00 molded on it. Box has 07/06/04 date on it.  | ||
| Reepicheep  |
Thanks for taking the time to post a confirmation! | ||
| Sportyeric |
Or you could try to win this one! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35577&item=452 5704908&rd=1 Bids up to US$29 for a $15 part? | ||
| 99x1 |
Found "Race Tuning Tip Sheet - Spring 1999" (Buell J01749) that was shipped with the race kit back then. Attached photo of a section. The tip for the primary gasket - was this done for convenience (scraping gaskets?), or for strength? (the chain adjuster mounts on the cover). Do most people use a gasket? TIA  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think the new metal gasket is your best bet. | ||
| Captainkirk |
I agree with Reep. Primary leaks are no fun.  | ||
| 99x1 |
I'm guessing leakage wasn't a concern - Yamabond is used alone on 2 stroke vertical crankcases. I was wondering if it was done to keep the chain adjuster tighter in the slot it runs in (the inner and outer wings on the plastic shoe fit into ribs on both sides), as they also mention checking the shoe for cracks (this would have been prior to the updated tensioner). | ||
| Captainkirk |
I suspect it was done more for ease of maintenance. Ever try to remove Yamabond?  | ||
| 99x1 |
(imagine creepy music in the background) Just prior to me posting to BadWeb about my chain adjuster, the previous owner of my bike had posted to eBay the adjuster that he had bought 3 years earlier, and never put in the bike. I haven't talked to him since I purchased the bike - there must have been a disturbance in the Buell force..... (un-imagine creepy music) | ||
| Djkaplan |
"...what is the PN for the good shoe assembly? I ordered one from the Harley dealer and the order slip had 39922-00Y on it." I found out what happened and what 39922-00Y is. The mouthbreather at the parts counter ordered a primary shoe that fits a Blast and not an M2. I knew that something was wrong when he said the part was not interchangeable with a Sportster unit. Of course, there was nothing I could do to convince him he was incorrect, but when the part came in it was pretty obvious he was. Don't think I want to deal with this guy anymore, but he is the parts manager(!) at the dealer. This time he took the PN I gave him - 39975-90A. Thanks again, gentlemen. | ||
| 99x1 |
I was in my local Metal SuperMarket, and they typically have shelves with "shorts" - end cuts and small chunks. They had a bunch of 4"x1.5"x3/8" thick 6061 aluminum plate - worked perfectly as a primary lock bar. I think they cost ~$1.50 (sold by weight?)- they told me to just take it. They have stores throughout the world - MetalSuperMarkets  | ||
| Djkaplan |
Thanks for the dimensions. I have access to all sorts of scrap at the manufacturing plant I work at. Now I'll have a lockbar, too! | ||
| Mduece |
help | ||
| Mduece |
help me please... I have a 2000 M2 and it leaks...all the time a brought it in they couldnt fix it(primary leaky) i cant fix it should i use gasket maker? RVT? thread lock on the bolts that hold it on? or is a dry open primary a cheap fix for the motor? How much ahhhh just sick of having a nice bike that leaks i have replaced it 8 times with about 200 miles untill it leaks again give me anything somethings got to work.... | ||
| Chris_mackay |
Where is it leaking from? Could be a gouge in either the case or the cover. RTV would work there. Could be a ding in the case or cover that keeps them from seating properly. Make sure they're both flat. To check the cover just take it in the house and lay it on your wifes favorite coffee table and slide it around. If it doesn't leave scratches, it's flat. If it does leave scratches, take a file and carefully knock down the spot that's covered with whatever color the table was. Or else it could just be coming from where the clutch cable enters the case. That would just be an o-ring needing replacement. There's also a vent on top of the case that, when plugged, will create pressure in the case and cause an apparently unrepairable leak. Could be the adjuster for the primary chain too. A little sealant on the jam nut takes care of that. An open primary is not a good idea on your motor. The transmission needs oil and without the primary cover to hold it in the gears may make a bad noise. It's not like a big twin with a sealed tranny. | ||
| Mduece |
wow well ok.. it leaks from the primary and pools to the bottom of the cover and results in the rear tire becoming saturated in oil. i know that it is not a bad case being the fact that it was replaced when i dumped the bike on that side.old one cracked purchased a new one... not that, but you say there is a vent? where is it guess i have never checked it but i will. is that common? i hope so.. is the adjuster the part picture above posted by 99 x1? and where should i seel it is the jam nut the one that sticks out the bottom of the case for adjustment of the piece? someone also trouble shot it for me as to being that i should put teflon tape on the shaft that the shifter engages? sound right. i will also be looking into the o ring on the clutch cable inlet seeing as it was recently replaced because it snapped where the cable enters the case. god i hope something works just fed up.. appreciate your input and would like another response to this one if you could or anyone else that has ideas... thanx a ton.... | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Blake, Don't sweat it too much. If you don't get it fixed, when the weather warms up you can bring it to my "Crisis Center" and we'll fix it once and for all. I live on the other side of the cities from you but that's just a good excuse for a ride right? I see that your a new poster. Have you done all the ususal stuff you should do to a 2K model? Things like rejet, primary adjuster etc.. Do you still have the stock "boomerang" shifter or has yours been updated to the 2001 style? If you have the 2001 style the pivot bolt on the bottom of the primary case can leak. You can use lots of Locktite blue, Hylomar, teflon tape, silicon, just about what ever you like to take care of that. If you have the stock boomerang style and you are referring to the shifter shaft forget the teflon tape. Just replace the shaft seal. If you have had the cover off that many times I'll about gaurantee that youhave buggered the seal. It's a cheap item to replace. Also, which primary gasket are you using? Don't mess with the old paper style. Use the new metal type. They seal much better. Goog luck! Brad | ||
| Mduece |
well yes i have tried the new style cometic metal gasket without much luck and yes i have upgraded to the new style shifter. my mods are... forcewinder intake, rejet kit, vance&hines ss2r pipe hollowed out repainted it after my spill with a really cool dupont color changing paint (marroonish to deep purple to burnt orange) in color, polished a bunch of crap chrome buell sticker off of a 2002 xb9s good looking bike.loud as hell. oh yeah the new style shifter is broken now one of the threaded joints is snapped any ideas of where i can get one? god i have neglected the bike last summer just got fed up bike doesnt hold a charge dont know if it is a stator or a voltage regulator need i battery last one is shot i would be interested in some help once i get all the parts like in mid may soon as it is nice out(clean roads)e mail me if ya want.. thanx a ton | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Did the threaded end break or the aluminum center piece? I don't know if the parts are available separately, I don't have a parts book for the 2001. Just drop me a line when you get the parts. We'll get it sorted out. Checking the charging circuit is pretty straight forward. Only takes a couple of minutes to pinpoint the trouble area. (Message edited by bluzm2 on March 04, 2005) | ||
| Mduece |
just the threaded piece broke and i was able to extract the rest of the bolt out the aluminum part. it should be a piece that some sort of hard ware specialist should be able to find. but i have not had any luck on my own at home depot or Ace  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I believe the new style shifter allows you to order each piece individually, but I could be wrong. Worth a try anyway, ask one of the dealer sponsors (DaveS or Stone Mountian). I would find the leak before chewing up too many more gaskets. Clean everything up really well, watch it carefully, and find out where the leak is coming from. I think they sell some dye for this kind of job, maybe try some of that. The seal for the shifter shaft is a press in piece that is annoying to replace, but cheap and not a huge deal. I reused mine a boatload of times and it was about the only part of the primary that never leaked on me. I also found when replacing the primary cover that i would have to torque everything down right, ride the bike for a couple heat cycles, then I would need to retorque those bolts. If I didn't, the new gasket would leak. Your charging issue is a whole 'nother thread, but we can help you find the problem pretty quickly. I posted a decent diagnosis guide in the knowledge vault if you want something quicker and lighter then the procedure in the factory manual. The manuals approach is better, but mine will get you 80% of the way there with very little work. BUT... if you have that primary cover off anyway trying to address the leak, look for bubbled enamel on the stator wires, or scorch marks where the plate pins down the stator wires on their way to exiting the case. And did the primary smell awful (not just bad, but wanna puke awful) at any point when you pulled the cover? If so, you have fresh roasted stator :/ (Message edited by reepicheep on March 05, 2005) (Message edited by reepicheep on March 05, 2005) | ||
| Mduece |
i have a 2000 m2 should i put in the new chain tensioner that is pictured above? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Absolutely!!!! Don't wait, do it now! They do fail without warning. | ||
| Mduece |
so is this the one to get 39975-90A ? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Yup! Listed at the top of this page.. The old part # should be superceeded by the new one. |
