| Author | Message | ||
     Buelltours |
Hello folks! I don’t usually leave my comfort zone (Tubers), but I couldn’t resist a 2009 1125r in bright red with a locked up engine. Took the cracked clutch cover off, found the crank nut loose and plan to put it back together. Got a used case, ordered a new nut, Loctite 272, a thread file and a gasket. However, I cannot find the engine locking tool. Can anyone here please point me in the right direction? Thanks a lot!!!! | ||
| Xbpete |
Aagard Moto Foundry carries the tool that Jens makes at NCCR Sweden. It looks like Chaz does not have them in stock at the moment. I suggest sending a message, if that fails I have a locking tool I could lend https://aagaardmotofoundry.bigcartel.com/product/f lywheel-locking-tool-buell-ebr | ||
| Stevel |
Do not use the locking tool to tighten the nut. It is too frail to withstand the force. Use an impact wrench 3/4 drive! | ||
| Artcjr |
Hey there. If you mean the crank locking tool that is used for removing the rotor, I have on you can borrow. Let me know. Got it from the Buell guys in Netherlands. | ||
| Buelltours |
Thanks a lot for the feedback! Great forum for sure. I did see that the locking tool from NCCR showed sold out and since this will hopefully be a one time use, I would love to "rent" a tool from a member here. Thanks for the offer, Arturo! Steve, I agree that 300Nm is a lot for a little pin like that. It had to be hardened steel from what I read. Impact wrench would work for me, but the crank still would need to be locked, right? Again, thanks for helping an old tuber guy out here.... | ||
| Artcjr |
No problem. Message me and I will give you my address. You can send me a mail/ups label for your house and I can just ship it directly to you. No need to rent. Just return when you are done. Newb here. What are Tubers??? | ||
| Buelltours |
Arturo, I sent you a PM. Thanks for your help. Check out the website on my profile to learn about Buells "Tubers"  | ||
| Artcjr |
Buelltours, emailed and PM'd you. | ||
| Stevel |
Buelltours, No locking tool when tightening that nut. That tool should only be used for timing use only. That nut can be loosened and tightened easily with an impact wrench without the tool. | ||
| D_adams |
Jeee bus Christmas, are you really that stupid? The manual clearly states it's 300 ft/lbs to torque it down, both the 1125 (updated specs) and the 1190 as well. Hammering at it with an impact wrench will do more damage than using a torque wrench properly. Initial torque is 210 ft/lbs, back it off, then final is 300 ft/lbs. The crank locking tool is heat treated to a specific Rockwell hardness and is designed to withstand that side load. The 24mm nut is a ONE TIME USE nut once it's been used. Discard the old one and replace with new. I'll get a pic of the torque specs if you don't quite believe me. | ||
| D_adams |
Specs for crank nut torque.  | ||
| Buelltours |
Got the tool today. Thanks, Art!!! Awesome help!! Unfortunately the first 2 threads on my crank were basically flat and I guess I didn’t do a good job chasing. The new nut started spinning around 200ftlbs. Does anyone have a suggestion how to salvage or should I now just get a used crank? They are very affordable on eBay but I’m a bit scared of the job…. Thanks! Needless to say I’m pretty bummed. At 300ftlbs this would have been a great day….  | ||
| Cvc |
I don’t know if there is a way to thread it but a bad hole can be restored with a tine-sert like fixing a spark plug thread. Possibly something like that and a permanent adhesive on the crank side. | ||
| D_adams |
Replace the crank. | ||
| Buelltours |
Found one on eBay. Great father-son project!  | ||
| Buelltours |
update: replaced the crank, put the engine back together and into the bike (should have taken more pics about cable routing - lessons learned). Bike starts (Race ECM and Barker Exhaust) but backfires in idle. Revs up fine but I noticed that the rear cylinder is getting to temp much quicker than the front. I wonder if I messed up the timing after all, but if I skipped a tooth, should it start and rev at all? Maybe I messed up the position on the valve sprocket (slots for bolts)on the front? I should have used a gauge after all....  Thanks for any advice and sorry for my ignorance... | ||
| Falloutnl |
"Bike starts (Race ECM and Barker Exhaust) but backfires in idle" I had a Torque Hammer (version 1) on an 1125 I owned for about a year and it ran like dogshit. Going back to the stock pipe solved it, ran beautifully after that. Could try something like that. Can't advise on the timing other than pointing out the obvious: do everything in your power to put it back exactly the way it was. If you didn't take pictures/measurements beforehand, consult the shop manual. | ||
| Buelltours |
good point. Thanks. I have never seen the bike running and have no history on it. I did get a stock muffler but assumed that since it has a race ecm and a barker that it must be tuned to it... As for the putting it back together: I think I did follow the book but didn't have that timing tool which locks down the cams before torquing the sprocket. The main question I have is whether the engine should run and rev with one jumped tooth... | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
Maybe check the air idle control? Look for vacuum leaks. I can say on my Aprilia I fought backfire at idle for years until I replaced throttle body boots. They looked fine on the outside but the inside were cracked and once I got them off and flexed them the cracks could be seen from the outside. This is if the Buell has them. It’s been so long since I’ve worked on mine I can’t remember. |
