| Author | Message | ||
     Jahwarrior007 |
Good evening to all. First of all, I'm not a mechanic. Used to think I was. Fooled myself for a long time. Anyway, just had a head gasket replaced on the bike. Left at a shop, then COVID hit and finally able to ride again. Just replaced the back tire and finally had a chance to ride. Anyway, the first 25 or so miles was perfect. Stopped to visit some folks. On the way back, at around 20 mile mark, the whole bike shuts down. No electrical power, then it comes back on a about 20-30 seconds later, everything comes back on. So I pull over at a few miles down the road, turn off bike, checked battery connections wiring around it. All seems ok. Start back up and down the road about 5 miles, same exact thing. I did make it back. So any suggestions on what I should check with really help. Thank you much. | ||
| Buelltours |
Could be your ignition switch. Unplug the black connector downstream and bridge all 3 pins. If it was the switch, the bike should now run just fine… | ||
| Falloutnl |
Ignition switch would be my first guess also. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Were the X1 sidestand switches updated on the X1s? the switch died on my S1 and gave me similar problems. I actually had to have my wife come pick me up in the truck at 7am on my one of my first rides to work after I bought the bike. Putting the sidestand up and down a couple times usually took care of it for a bit. I eventually just removed the switches and jumped all of the connections. You said yours had no electrical power though, so thinking about it that's probably not it. When I was having problems I still had full electrical power, it was just tricking the bike into thinking the sidestand was down, so as soon as I'd take it out of neutral the bike would shut off. Worth looking into though. Also try to see if it dies when you're doing anything in particular. At one point I had a problem with the electrical dying on my XB. I eventually traced it to one of the turn signal wires under the seat shorting out. It'd ride fine but as soon as I'd hit the turn signal it would die. | ||
| Hootowl |
Could be ignition switch. Could be intermittent ground on either the battery connection to the swingarm mount or some other ground. | ||
| Mstrfrz |
I had a similar problem with a ground just under the seat near the tank. Busted ring terminal that would sometimes make contact. Check them all. | ||
| Ceejay |
The tubers (and probably sportys too) tucked all their wiring from the VR under the cam chest behind the cam cover - in the spot that many cut down. Being that the oil pump is right there with a brass fitting that could best described as one you’d get from the Lowe’s plumbing isle, there’s a nice sharp edge. Add an older bike (meaning minor oil leaks), a lot of vibration, and too many things in the same proximity that aren’t friendly with one another and you’ve got problems. You ride the bike (excellent!) it warms up (great) which causes a small bit of oil to move around (nothing major), bike vibrates from riding (some folks really enjoy this aspect), electrical lines rub on sharp metal part (no bueno!), causes electrical short (yikes) and kills bike (nobody likes that aspect of buells or HD). Had it happen a few times to me before I was able to figure it out. Deifinitely an area worth a look on the bike, as it’s almost impossible to check statically (bike not running) and a person rarely thinks about it when the bike is dead on the side of the road. Plus it won’t do it all the time and often the bike has enough juice to power through small electrical glitches that would be caused by this Hope that helps. | ||
| Victory |
On the cows... they have a resistance value for the timing sensor. too much and you need to throw it away. Can affect running good or poor and starting. new sensors from HD are supposed to be back in stock in about 2 weeks. Ill have mine soon then. | ||
| Mike_lee |
Im goin thru the same thing again. First time was just like you said. Nothing at all. Second ( though intermittent, as the power would restore til i tried to start bike) was the positive terminal. Even tho wire wouldnt move, postive terminal sparked when hitting the direct start button. Removed and retightened and all was good til this morning on the way to work. Similar to the first time, nothing at all again. Gona try the vr first. Fairly common sporty issue from what i hear. | ||
| Akbuell |
Actually, if it were me, having confirmed and solved a (loose) battery terminal issue, I would next turn the ign and start switches on, and then wiggle the ign key. It is, after all, 20+ years old. ANY flickering, on/off, ect would mean a suspect ign switch. Bypass the switch (PM for directions, as I don't want to put them out on a public forum) and see if the problem goes away. If it does, a new switch may be in order. Or a good slosh of WD40 may work. Hope this helps. Dave | ||
| Mike_lee |
I actually considered that as well but, its not showing signs of that. Battery is dead and wont hold a charge. Same symptom as the original issue. Tomorrow ill get the meter out and swap batteries with the s1 and have a better idea. | ||
| Falloutnl |
I've had many a voltage regulator die on me. 1 on my X1, 2 on my Ulysses. | ||
| Jahwarrior007 |
Good evening to all. I already knew that the Buell family would have some excellent suggestions. I did forget to mention that when the "beast" was shutting down, I was actually switching the key back on and off, plus switched the on/off button a few times. So I'm aware that parts always rattle loose. So I'm thinking of just buying a new key switch. Again, thanks to all and I'll let all known the end results. | ||
| Jahwarrior007 |
Good Sunday to all, First, I haven't really had time to work on the X1. Small farm and family obligations. Anyway, wanted to to know if 1999 standard sporster key switch will work on the X1. Thanks for all your time and help. | ||
| Normthenomad |
Had a bad battery do the same thing you're describing. Just knew it wasn't the battery. It would show 12.75 volts, turn the key on...nothing. Battery was less than 2 months old and was shorted internally. | ||
| Hootowl |
Best battery these days is https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/cyl10 001 HD used to carry good ones, but have apparently changed suppliers. | ||
| 96s2t |
J&P has a replacement ignition switch that you will have to solder the Buell connector on to. It looks exactly the same with the three wires. |
