| Author | Message | ||
     Grancuda |
Got a ‘98 S1 that’s got the replacement “warranty” tank & it’s been indoors, unused for 20 years. Getting it back on the road & wanting to try & avoid the bubbling. What’s the procedure to try to prevent bubbling or is it not an issue on the replacement tanks? I remember 10 years ago when I had my old one people mentioning something about: 1. using 100% gas, so no ethanol 2. keeping the vent clear/not pinched off 3. keeping the tank out of the direct sun/heat I’m sure the vent deal is legit to keep from swelling but not sure on the others. Any input/advice, I’d like to just get the aluminum tank but $1200 is hard to swallow.  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Well hopefully my rambling information will be of some use to you... there are documented methods for new paint, but the bubbling issue is different... since it was due to what I've seen phrased as "outgassing" fumes or evaporate of some sort through the nylon tank material and being trapped under the paint, especially the decals with just didn't breathe at all... well, it would seem that keeping it out of higher heat direct sunlight situations may help. I'd concur with keeping the vent clear. I haven't any idea on the fuel type so hopefully someone who knows that specifically will pop in. When I had my tank repainted I experienced bubbling under the vinyl tank lettering and racing stripes after a number of years, but never had any paint lifting. My paints were allowed to cure for a full month, with some time in the summer sun without fuel in the tank to assure it was truly cured so the paint adhesion was good. I guess the plastic/vinyl just didn't allow fumes to pass through. | ||
| K12pilot |
#2 #3 and a prayer. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
From what I've gathered over time, it's the ethanol in the gas that causes it. You could use 100% gasoline, there is even a website somewhere that'll show you all of the ethanol free gas stations near you, but I remember the closest one to me wasn't really that close. Even if there is one near you, restricting yourself to 1-2 gas stations sounds like more of a hassle than the bubbles on my tank. Definitely keep the tank vent clear, and make sure you don't let your bike sit without the vent hose connected. A couple years ago I pulled off my tank and set it aside to work on something. 1-2 days later I noticed a spot about 2" wide and 3" long right under that vent was all bubbled and eventually just peeled off. Not horrible on my bike because it's already silver, and the part under the paint is kind of a silver color, but that'd be a tragedy on a bike as gorgeous as yours. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
It is the ethanol that ruins Buell tanks. Ethanol fuel runs fine but if left in the tank it will cause problems. Just use ethanol-free fuel and your tank and carb will last a very long time. | ||
| Icantdrive55 |
Guessing this ^^^^ is the correct answer. PO of my M2 said he ONLY used "pure" gas and the tank is blemish-free. So far, I'm keeping with his regimen to hopefully prevent issues. It also mostly eliminates the gumming during over-winter storage for the carb models. I'm lucky to have a station within 3 miles of me that sells e-free fuel, altho they're pretty damn proud of the stuff at $4.59/gal.... | ||
| 99cyclone |
Add "keep the tank full" to the list of preventive measures. A tank full of gas has less space for the build up of vapors. One of the early theories was vapors permeating the tank. I have been very careful with my tanks and *knock on wood* have had no issues with bubbling of the OEM tanks with 3D decals or my own repaints following the guidelines elsewhere here on BadWeb. | ||
| Falloutnl |
"altho they're pretty damn proud of the stuff at $4.59/gal...." lol, still, comfort yourself with the thought that I'm paying almost twice as much for the same amount here in the Netherlands. |
