| Author |
Message |
    
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2020 - 04:28 pm: | 
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Hi Dennis, the TPS is 2.0 at idle. The area where I’m having problems is the 3.5-4.0% range. |
Dennis_c
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2020 - 05:34 pm: |
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do you have any codes? |
Panshovevo
| | Posted on Friday, July 17, 2020 - 12:40 pm: |
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Just for the hell of it, before you tear into the ECM ground point on the left side of the engine, try running a separate wire from a good ground point on the engine, directly to the negative post on the battery.
It may or may not make a difference, but it smoothed out the low rpm part throttle performance of my CR considerably.
I used a 12 gauge wire.
(Message edited by Panshovevo on July 17, 2020) |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Friday, July 17, 2020 - 02:04 pm: |
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Panshovevo- I’ll give that a try today. Thanks for the tip!
Dennis I had a bunch of codes relating to fuel pressure and baro sensor, I think they were from my fuel pump work and pulling sensors. I’ve cleared them and they have not returned. |
Panshovevo
| | Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 06:05 pm: |
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Rob, if you want to check the ground point on the side of the cylinder, it can be done without rotating the engine. It’s kind of a bear getting to it, but it’s easier than dropping the engine.
As I recall, I removed the left pod, and maybe the the backing plate/radiator. Not certain about the latter, it’s been a while.
Seems like I disconnected the ECM wiring, and shifted the wire bundle to get clearance to get a 10 mm wrench up to the bolt.
If anyone has a better recollection than mine, feel free to contribute to the discussion. |
Professorbarnhouse
| | Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 10:09 pm: |
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When I cleaned up the grounds on my bikes I used a scotchbrite pad and noalox grease, you can get it in the electrical section of Home Depot, Its used on aluminum wire on house electrical entrances.
Aluminum is a great conductor, unfortunately when exposed to oxygen a layer of aluminum oxide forms which is an insulator.
The grease keeps the layer of oxide from forming and helps maintain a good connection to the frame. |
Panshovevo
| | Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 11:30 pm: |
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I'm not familiar with that particular grease, but many greases act as an insulator.
When I use grease, I clean the surfaces thoroughly, assemble and tighten to spec, then cover the assembly with high temp waterproof grease. |
Panshovevo
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 28, 2020 - 10:35 am: |
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@Throttle monkey1
Any news? |
Stevel
| | Posted on Thursday, July 30, 2020 - 06:08 am: |
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Just for your information all petroleum products are superb insulators. that includes oils and greases. If my memory is correct, I think the number 50 micro Siemens per meter conductance +/-. In order for greases and oils to be a conductor, other ingredients need to be added. |
Professorbarnhouse
| | Posted on Friday, July 31, 2020 - 11:36 pm: |
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Definitely, use something formulated for electrical connections Noalox, Oxguard, there are a lot of different brands.
They're conductive and they keep the connection from oxidizing. |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Thursday, August 06, 2020 - 06:43 pm: |
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Hey guys, thanks for the tips! I just got home from vacation in the mountains with tons of twisty roads. I didn’t bring the bike because I’m fed up with it. I added a ground, with no change. I’m going to attempt to reach the engine ground without dropping the engine. I’d like to fiddle around with tunerpro to figure out how add fuel to that area of the map in 5% increments to see if there is any change.
User Stimbrell was kind enough to take my barkers map and add stock fuel trim and ignition timing to it. It didn’t make a difference.
I was farting around with ECMdroid and was looking at some live data as I held it in that throttle position & RPM. Definitely drops RPM down to around 1500 and the spark goes nuts too, wondering if it’s electrical or that’s just resultant. Gonna head out now and mess around. |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Friday, August 07, 2020 - 09:31 pm: |
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I took the bike for a rip yesterday after setting the AFVs to 106 and it seemed to run better, it was a hot day (30C) and when I got stuck in traffic it seemed to run worse. Figured that the IAT was reading a higher than actual ambient air temp because of no air flow. My brain came up with a theory that the ECM leaned out the A/F mix a bit which made it cut out more at that RPM range.
I decided to try to trick the ECM. Instead of messing around with resistors, I pulled the IAT from where it’s mounted and had my wife hold it in a bottle of water from the fridge while I started the bike. It was reading 3C so I figured if it ran worse at an elevated air temp the ECM should fatten the A/F mixture at a low temp and the bike should run better if it is a lean condition causing this. Tried holding it at that RPM range in neutral and it still popped and hesitated. So much for that theory.
After that I decided to pull the left pod and get at that engine ground as per Panshovevo’s recommendation of getting at it without rotating the engine.
As I’m pulling the bolts for the left pod I notice the fuel pump priming. Weird. I put a new fuel pump in and have checked primed pressure and running pressure probably 30 times since I put the new pump in. Go into diagnostic mode and pressure is dropping fast. Goes from 550 down to 200 real quick. I grabbed the fuel line from where it goes into the block where the fuel pressure sensor and pushed it hard into the block and the fuel pressure instantly jumped up to mid 400s. The engine was very hot when I was doing this.
I’m gonna let it cool down and see if it keeps doing it. It starts fine and runs at around 440 kPa. Could a brand new factory Buell fuel pump assembly be toast after putting on 500 miles all summer?
Oh yeah I took a vid to show you:
https://youtu.be/AMnXsulY2oY |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Friday, August 07, 2020 - 11:48 pm: |
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Another update- pump wasn’t priming nearly as much (almost not at all) when cold when I cycled the ignition. I finished ripping the left pod apart and checked the engine ground. It was tight. I was able to tighten it slightly, like a couple degrees.
Went for a ride and it was 17 degrees and bike ran worse in that RPM range. Who knows? I decided to head out to the back roads so I wasn’t in stop and go traffic and ••••••• I was wheelying everywhere. It’s like a dirt bike. The handling is great too. I did notice a whirring/whistling noise coming from the left pod area when the rpms are coming down when coasting to stop. I heard it a few weeks ago and brushed it off as a squeaky rotor. Now I’m thinking it’s wind hitting the pod or something rotor related. I think I’m over thinking this.
Question- when you pull the cover to check the stator/rotor are you normally able to reuse the gasket or does it self destruct? |
Xbuell12s
| | Posted on Friday, August 07, 2020 - 11:57 pm: |
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That gasket needs to be replaced. |
Mhpalin
| | Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2020 - 03:14 pm: |
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I have a gasket you can use if you have to order one just give me the one you order.
 |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 08:14 pm: |
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MHpalin- much appreciated! To be honest I’m done with the bike for the year. I’m taking it down to a dyno in Calgary in October to get a couple runs done to see if there are any rich or lean areas around there.
If it’s still doing and ends up being a mystery gremlin, I’m done. I’ll sell the bike and pick up something else. Life’s too short to deal with stuff like this.
I did bring the AFVs up to 150 and it did seem to do it less which is great but the the bike was super rich everywhere else |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Friday, September 18, 2020 - 04:47 pm: |
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So I just did about 220km worth of riding on the bike am not so sure it’s fueling. I’m wondering if it’s an ignition/electrical problem. Bike still does it, but I was doing a lot of downshifting while coasting. It will bog like it’s either getting zero fuel or the spark is cut in that same RPM range while coasting with no throttle. It just gets weirder and weirder. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Friday, September 18, 2020 - 08:24 pm: |
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Is there any chance that the ECM is cracked?
This was a common occurrence on the Ulysses earlier models. The more something is handled, the more potential for damage.
Didn't you say on your first post that the bike ran fine with the stock ECM and exhaust?
Is it possible you have an exhaust leak? Intake leak? |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2020 - 07:27 pm: |
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Hey two season there is a possibility that there is an intake or exhaust leak. I checked for intake leaks using brake clean, ether and propane. Nothing. Checked the exhaust with soapy water before the headers got too hot and nothing.
Got both injectors cleaned and flow tested a couple days ago and they were within 0.4% of each other and the tech said they’re mint.
Finally got my gasket in the mail after pulling the ignition cover and bolted it all back together and fired it up and it shot oil everywhere because I forgot to install the plug and snap ring on the ignition cover. That’s what I get for rushing.
Anyways got it topped back up with oil and went for a rip. Purposely rode around at 3K RPM in all gears and one time when I let off the gas it bogged and died. Was doing about 40mph. Pulled in the clutch and down shifted and bump started it while still coasting. I think it’s electrical. As per the manual I bought an inline ignition tester (a real cheap one) that broke when I was installing it. Just finished repairing it so I can test the ignition system to see if spark is cutting out. I was gonna head out and test it but then I poured myself a rum and coke.
It’s very pronounced in that RPM range at cruising, like bucking/cutting out repetitively. When I accelerate through that rpm range it usually bucks HARD once. Decel/coasting through that RPM range causes it too buck and not as well.
On the plus side I found a couple good deals on a Ducati hypermotard (I’m a dirt bike guy at heart), an FZ09 and a Ducati streetfighter 1098 |
Ceejay
| | Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2020 - 11:17 pm: |
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Not sure if this has been mentioned yet but take a look at the speed sensor - specifically where it runs by the rear header. Mine has melted once and the symptoms sound exactly like what your describing. The insulation melted off of both wires and was shorting out. After cleaning it up and soldering back together I rerouted with zip ties to ensure it didn’t happen again and haven’t had a bucking surging problem since. I originally thought it was my fuel pump, but that has checked out fine. |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2020 - 11:29 pm: |
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Interesting! I will check that out tomorrow! Thank you for the tip! |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2020 - 03:02 pm: |
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Tried the speed sensor no dice. I pulled the ignition cover and looked at the rotor again. I did check it and where the two teeth are machined off there was about 0.005” sticking up. I didn’t think it was an issue but today I said •••• it and filed it smooth because I’m ready to sell the thing.
Took it for a rip and it runs like a top. No hesitation stumbling or anything! I’m happy as hell! The weirdest part it didn’t do any of this when it was stock it really makes me wonder.
Thank you all for your input, very appreciated!
I’m going riding! |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2020 - 10:37 pm: |
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I would not call it good yet.
Have you pulled the air box apart and checked everything underneath the throttle bodies?
Like you, when all goes to s*** I do some thinking and drinking. Usually works!
 |
1125rr
| | Posted on Saturday, December 12, 2020 - 07:16 pm: |
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Do we know this was a permanent fix? I feel for the guy...if he was closer I would've dedicated a day to swapping parts one at a time to see what fixed it. I never saw him post that he had tried going back to stock exhaust just to verify that it still had the condition in that format. It seems unlikely that tooth on the pickup was the issue but who knows... |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 01:56 am: |
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1125RR- it seems like it’s the fix. We had good weather up here so I rode for another month before winter hit. Last day I got to ride was on November 2nd. That doesn’t happen often.
To make matters worse I picked up an 08 Ducati hypermotard 1100S for a good price and now my wife thinks I’m selling one of the two in spring. Lol. |
Mhpalin
| | Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 11:37 am: |
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Thats great Rob if you know anyone looking for a R or CR I will be selling mine in the spring. Have a great Xmas |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 04:22 pm: |
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MH- I was down on Whyte ave where riders all stop for coffee and a kid came up and offered to buy my CR on the spot, said he had one and sold it and said it was his favourite bike. He’s always hanging out down there so I will let him know yours is for sale when I’m down there in spring. Have yourself a Merry Christmas as well! And thanks again for the help this spring! |
1125rr
| | Posted on Monday, December 21, 2020 - 08:00 pm: |
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Kind of amazed this fixed it. When I DM'd you TM I'd suggested just combing over the bike to see if anything was amiss...as unscientific as that may be. I guess that's what it took.
I still wonder if it did the same thing with the old exhaust, and if anyone cared to speculate how this caused the issue as described, I'm all ears. It seems ambient temp was not a factor, right? It did it in cool spring temps the same as they were last fall? Just a finicky tune on the new exhaust that reacted to a quirky spark caused by these pickup teeth?
Given that the constant has been it's run fine only in fall, and the latitude--I'll suggest it's clearly related to the Van Allen belts/northern lights, the rocking/wobble of the planet as it relates to the 72 degree Vee angle and the celestial houses and whatnot, and will resurface after spring solstice. But that's just a theory, as plausible as it may be. |
Throttle_monkey1
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 22, 2020 - 12:12 am: |
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1125RR, definitely the Van Allen belt!
It ran great when I bought it and it was all stock, that was in August of 2019. Did all these mods over winter and it ran like crap.
The only thing I can think of is the remapped ECM didn’t like those two tiny ridges on the rotor. There is a service bulletin about those rotor teeth from Buell but through all my googling I couldn’t find an actual copy of it. I saw an old thread around here where a guy had similar symptoms and dremeled his and was good to, so I gave it a go with a small file and it worked. |
