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Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2022 - 09:36 pm: |
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My 06 Uly (37k miles) has stopped charging. I have the Shindengen regulator on so I'm pretty sure it's not that. I eliminated the whatever-connector (77 connector?) years ago so I know it's not that. I pulled the primary inspection cover, and it wasn't a knock-me-down STANK smell...but there's definitely burnt electronics in there. I get a single green on my Kuryakyn voltmeter with my headlight off (I have a switch on my HID so I can start it with the light off, then fire the light once the bike is running), but soon as I turn on the light the green goes away. New battery about 200 miles ago. I pulled the stator out of my '07 parts bike and it looks good...but it is a pain in the ass so I'm not sure if I want to use a used part and possibly do it again. I do have aux lights (LEDs) on the bike. Heated jacket and glove thermostat. Heated grips. HID low beam, LED high beam, both-on mod. Garmin GPS (antique Quest II, because it refuses to die). I've repaired/replaced the steering head ground wire so that issue is long gone. I'll start my searches in a bit, but what options are there for stators for these 3-phase units? Is stock "it"? Or are there some reliable aftermarket - possibly higher output - options out there? It's been so long since I broke anything on this bike, I'm completely out of touch with what's out there and where! I have a clutch cover gasket. I'll get a primary gasket. I'll check my primary shoe while it's apart but shifting is fine. I have fluid. That should be it for parts, from what I can tell...my 77 was replaced by submersible well pump connectors so I can just splice those into the new stator leads... Actually now that I think about it...I'm gonna check those splices first to make sure they aren't "bleeding" voltage through worn sheaths... It's all coming back to me! Been a few years since I rode consistently (busy building and selling houses, buying collectible cars and playing with them, and working. A LOT.), and even longer since I broke anything, so all this is pretty foggy! I am enjoying riding again though - even if the driving force behind it is these stupid fuel prices.... |
Smorris
| Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2022 - 09:46 pm: |
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IIRC i've used "Rick's" on one of my '06, quite sure used on Triumph 955i. AMERICAN made, at least were when i purchased |
Smorris
| Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2022 - 09:48 pm: |
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pretty sure the reason had to replace was result of the OEM "77" frying several regulators prior to deutch upgrade |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2022 - 09:59 pm: |
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One thing- don’t forget there’s a tech bulletin that increased the torque spec for the crank nut from ~210 ft-lbs to ~250 ft-lbs. Be sure and clean the crank and nut threads thoroughly with brake cleaner, coat with fresh red Locktight, and torque to spec fairly quickly. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2022 - 10:15 pm: |
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Yeah, I have that written in my FSM from when I switched to a 9 primary...then back to the 12 because I missed the highway legs. Thanks though! |
Pushr0d
| Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2022 - 09:03 am: |
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I bought a Cycle Electric stator from J&P (I think). It's still on my shelf - my problem turned out to be a bad R/R. I had already replaced the stator with an HD unit (pictured). CE doesn't make a stator for the Buells, but the one for the Sportster fits. The lead from the 'bulkhead' plug to the R/R connection is 11 inches longer. So, you'd either cut and splice it shorter, or tie up the extra length. I recall looking at the two and three phase stators, as well. So you'll need to make sure your replacement is compatible with the Shindengen, which should be 3-phase. They are warrantied for two years! One other thing - make sure the connection to the R/R is good - I had a charging failure, and it turned out that the big plug was not fully seated and locked.
(Message edited by pushr0d on April 14, 2022) |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2022 - 11:31 am: |
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I eliminated the plug years ago - that's the 77 connector. Faiure point. I cut it out and spliced the leads with submersible well pump splices - there's a thread on it here in the archives, with photos. All I need is bare wires to connect to my bike harness. I have found a couple places online who do rebuilds with improved insulation and heat resistance, I may check them out. For now I'll likely toss in the used stator I have - after I check my connections and make sure I don't have voltage bleed through bad sheaths. I'll also do a stator test with my multimeter just for grins...but the smell I got out of the primary leads me to believe the coils are burning out. The reason it doesn't smell absolutely horrible is because I caught it early with the voltmeter...not with a dead bike after it completely burns out. |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2022 - 01:11 pm: |
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Not that it matters in this case, but the Shindengen regulator works on both two wire and three wire stators. Put one on my ‘08 when I got tired of replacing the stock regulators. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2022 - 03:23 pm: |
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Not that it matters in this case, but the Shindengen regulator works on both two wire and three wire stators. Put one on my ‘08 when I got tired of replacing the stock regulators. I did the same thing on my 09-engined 07. Also makes it easier to upgrade to a 3-phase stator in the future if I ever wanted to. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2022 - 04:33 pm: |
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Yep, my '06 (and the donor '07) is a 3 phase. It'll stay 3 phase. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2022 - 08:23 pm: |
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well, I opened it up....the stator connector (46) is cooked. I need to find my voltmeter to do a stator test...but that's definitely a fail point. Whether it has been like that long enough to damage the stator (or VR) is yet to be seen...damn them for cramming all those wires into that little space in front of the belt pulley, tucked around the oil lines.... |
Cupcake_mike
| Posted on Friday, April 15, 2022 - 08:34 am: |
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ce6014 has been on my 06 uly for about 5 years and 80K miles with no problems. Didn't have to do anything special with the wiring. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2022 - 09:29 am: |
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Check the 46 connector, the 3 wires from the stator. Apparently mine didn't have enough dielectric grease and was arcing, cooking the plastic. Verified dead stator. No ground shorts but only 6VAC across any legs. Surprised it's charging at all... (Message edited by ratbuell on April 17, 2022) |
Tootal
| Posted on Monday, April 18, 2022 - 08:11 pm: |
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I lost my stator early on. I replaced it with another Buell stator and never had another problem. Buell had some birthing issues with the Uly but everything I've replaced never failed again. BTW, I've been riding mine more now that the price of gas has gone Buyden! |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, April 19, 2022 - 02:08 pm: |
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Yeah, that's the reason I'm getting more seat time too. Fuel prices. FJB. Although down-for-stator hurts less when there's a freak snowstorm that dumps 5" on me in Maryland in the middle of April....grrrrr.... |
Smorris
| Posted on Tuesday, April 19, 2022 - 06:40 pm: |
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Let's go Brandon. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, May 02, 2022 - 08:28 am: |
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Well, part showed up...I installed it...got everything done...went on a shakedown run...and thought. I know I zipped the stator screws in (4) with my cordless...but did I torque them? I torqued every other bolt (yes, I torqued the engine nut to 250...well...-ish, since I don't have a wrench that goes that high but I do have a breaker bar!)...but I don't think I torqued the stator screws. Guess I'll pull it apart again tonight. I don't want one backing out and shorting out my new stator... At least the electrical side is done. Replaced that 46 connector (the AC stator plug) with another screw-terminal submersible pump connector. THAT won't arc! |
Ourdee
| Posted on Monday, May 02, 2022 - 02:35 pm: |
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Doin' it nice cause we do it twice! I seam to forget more stuff these days. It's nice when I can't remember why I don't talk to some people. I just know I don't and ignore them cause they got on that list somehow. LOL Ah, but you're OK Joe! |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, May 02, 2022 - 04:13 pm: |
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Yeah...part of me is like "ride it". Then the (wallet-holding) other part of me is like "don't let one come out and short your $tator...that would just be dumb...." Sigh. At least there weren't pieces left over when I finished... |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2022 - 08:52 pm: |
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Yea, you might do worse things than destroy your stator. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2022 - 05:32 pm: |
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Yep. I also noticed on the screws from my parts bike, there's loctite on those. DEFINITELY didn't loctite the new ones. Gonna address that, too. It's on the lift draining. I'll knock it out tomorrow, I'm off since they're letting me work Saturday... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2022 - 10:18 am: |
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So, reading the manual (I know...), it says use NEW stator screws?? They're a 30 in-lb spec so I know they aren't torque to yield (stretch) fasteners... Should I just red loctite and torque them? |
Tootal
| Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2022 - 02:19 pm: |
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I wouldn't use red on that small of a screw. they make purple for those small screws but I'd probably use blue, just in case! |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, May 10, 2022 - 09:11 am: |
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I found a local shop that had 4 in stock. Just used new - for all of $2.28/each. Now I just need to adjust the clutch cable...when I get home tonight. I could do it at work today, but I have a sinking feeling it's not "adjustment" so much as "cable stretch", and I don't wanna break it 22 miles from home... They also had a battery for my 1125 - TWO bikes running in one weekend! I forgot what a pain in the ass it is to swap an 1125 battery.... |
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