| Author | Message | ||
     Tatsu |
I noticed it takes a lot more up stroke to shift from 1st to 2nd. So much so, that sometimes I miss the shift to 2nd and find the "green light" instead. Is there a way to shorten that "length". | ||
| Martin |
I found that problem when drag-racing. The solution for me was to slightly lengthen the sleeve on the linkage so that I could arrange for the shifting arm to be at the same angle to to rod as the shift-lever (ie the ideal 90 degrees, to maximise leverage) when my boot was in the perfect place for the shift, which for me was the instep. You might want to shorten the shift lever but, of course, shifting effort would increase. I found Torco oil made a big diff. | ||
| Bomber  |
Tat -- try lowering the shift lever an 1/8 -- 1/4" I had the same problem with my tuber (and other bikes, for that matter) and a prety small adjustment fixed it up just fine! I love cheap and easy fixes! | ||
| Glitch  |
Or if you wanted, it's very simple to switch direction. One up four down. Doesn't change the "length", but does make for faster up shifting. Once you're used to it. | ||
| Tatsu |
Cool. I'll try lowering it. I was thinking reversing it, but I know I'm going to forget if I have a emergency and do something stupid. | ||
| Starter  |
Changing to race shift = very dangerous. I would recommend you practise on a jap screamer first. Remember this is a H-D motor and most of the time you haven't got a surplus 5000rpm on top of the revs. One down when you wanted up could badly over rev your engine. | ||
| Tatsu |
Yeah old habits are hard to break. I still try to step on the "clutch" in my wifes car, even though it's automatic. | ||
| Glitch |
I've had no problems. One down when you wanted up could badly over rev your engine. Rev limiter works fine too  | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Glitch, Do I need additional parts, or just reverse the parts for reverse shifting. Details please. If possible a picture (worth 1000 words). | ||
| Ortegakid  |
All my bikes have been upside down,('cause in the old rd days, thats what happened when you rearset), now you simply reverse the lever, will send you pics if'n you need,it's so much better,once you're used to it,I can't ride right side up, and no-one will ever borrow your bike either! It also shortens the throw to second, so allaround better! | ||
| Starter |
David and others who think the rev limiter will save their engines from over rev during a downshift are mistaken. If you shift down a gear when moving beyond the rev limit of the engine (ie drop back to second near redline in third)either of two things will happen. 1 - Hopefully for you engines sake the rear tyre will lock up. 2 - Usually the engine will over rev. Just cause the ECM has cut the spark it don't mean the engine won't over rev due to the speed the rear tyre is driving it at. If you guys wish to prove me wrong go ahead a drop it into 2nd at the 3rd redline and watch the tach needle promptly move off the scale then listen to your engine smash itself to peices. Changing the shift pattern is fine if your used to it but I'd suggest you stay below 5000rpm for the first few weeks till its second nature. Jap bikes are a little more forgiving due to the fact not many ride thenm near the redline like the Buells so there's a little more margin for error. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
I have accidentally downshifted before when I hit a nasty bump on the road and my toe hit the shifter. With the reverse shift, any accidental shifting will be up rather than down. Overall, once I get use to it, I think it will be safer. What do you think? | ||
| U4euh |
C'mon Glitch do give details. I never thought about this being done,but I must admit, my interest has been sparked. | ||
| 99buellx1  |
It's a two minute job. I'll try to illustrate, being I don't have a picture handy. When you look at the shifter side of the engine there is the shift shaft coming out of the primary case. There is an arm that is connected by a pinch bolt and the rod is toothed. From the factory that arm faces the right or towards the back of the bike. If you take that arm off, and change it so it now faces the front of the bike. Bingo, you have now successifully switched the shift pattern of the motorcycle. (remember the pinch bolt). Take some time to get used to it, its great when you do, but as mentioned, could do damage if there was an oopsie. Craig | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Craig & Glitch, I know basically how it's done, but I'm more interested in at what O'clock position the linkage connecting point should be at to obtain best shifting performance. I have placed mine at about between 8 and 9 o'clock position, but shifts sloppily. | ||
| Oconnor  |
now its sparking my interest. and I have absolutely no idea why. I agree with both sides of the arguement. Guess I'll just have to give it a try and see. So yeah, what O'Clock should the linkage be? | ||
| Ortegakid |
You want to adjust the rod to attempt to make them level, then adjust for toe height, will take picas and show ya! | ||
| Ortegakid |
And learn to spell! | ||
| Ortegakid |
here's the pic, notice how the lever goes forward now, not to tghe rear as on stiocker,hope this helps,thx! [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v162/oldschoolpl510/lhside.jpg[/IMG] | ||
| Oconnor |
so clean... | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
I had mine positioned very similar about 8:00-8:30 O'clock position as Orgeta's. It shifts terribly. The original position shifts so much better. It seems like the shift lever needs to have a different configuration to get the 90 degree connection between the shift lever and the linkage. You can see from the photo that the shift lever to the linkage is way beyond 90 degrees. | ||
| Ortegakid |
Tis true, to have the correct leverage, you would need a new, longer,link lever,(upper), mines been the way it is since o miles,(changed it in the delers lot), love it! | ||
| Xbolt12 |
Ortega, I was browsing through a performance mods to Harley book at the bookstore and a common performance mod for sportsters is to balance the gaps between first and second by re-shimming the gears on the shaft. It sure seems like the xb motor could use this, but since it is not a trap-door type transmission, I'm not sure the mod would apply. I does feel like the gap is larger between 1st and 2nd (mechanically I mean). Personally I would rather have a hard to find neutral and a cleaner shift. Perhaps this is a question for Slaughter or some of the race teams. xbolt12 | ||
| Slaughter  |
I have seen the S3 shifter installed to get better geometry for reverse-pattern shifting. I was gonna look in my box of goodies to see if I still have my S3 lever somewhere (I have the Banke stuff on my S3) I really don't notice much between 1st and 2nd - except at the start and back to the pits, I really don't ever get into first gear. Face it, the tranny is clunky and anything that can smooth things out is a good thing. I don't know as much as it might seem - still trying to figure all this stuff out before old age and senility overcomes my ability and judgement. (echoing a couple posts above - if you do go reverse pattern, change ALL your bikes - both Buells and the SV racebike ALL have reverse pattern - my mind doesn't switch back and forth) (Message edited by slaughter on November 30, 2004) |
