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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 09, 2020 » X1 leaking exh manifold gasket, RnR difficult? « Previous Next »

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Robertb1958
Posted on Monday, October 07, 2019 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2000 X1 front exhaust manifold gasket is leaking - sounds bad. Maybe I am overthinking it, but it looks like it would be difficult to pull the header to replace the gasket? Does it pull out from the front then back and rotate or something?

Or, do I have to take the whole engine apart to get to those manifold gaskets?

I did not find exact info in a search...


X1 Engine
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Monday, October 07, 2019 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty easy, remove the muffler, front header hanger bolt, then take off the 4 nuts on the exhaust studs (this is the tricky part, they tend to seize up and break the stud) then the header comes off. Use a pick and pull the old gasket from the head, then push a new crush gasket and reinstall header first and work your way to the exhaust bolting it back up. The exhaust stud nuts only get like 10ftlb of torque IIRC. I replace them with new whiz nuts.
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Robertb1958
Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2019 - 06:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Woke up this AM, still don't quite get it. Does the "Y" header spring (bend) apart enough to come off of the studs, assuming I get lucky and don't break them off?
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2019 - 08:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The header doesn't need to spread to get over the studs. When you remove the 4 bolts, there's a steel plate on each side that will slide away from the studs, and the header should just slide down and out.

Just be gentle with the studs. hit them with PB blaster a couple times a day for a couple days first, and if you can wedge it in there, hit the studs with a little wire brush on a Dremel to clean up the threads to help those nuts come off.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, October 10, 2019 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

put Never-seez on those studs. It's super high temp stuff and you'll never hava a problem in the future.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, October 11, 2019 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Conversely, Put them on dry.
Rust is nature's lock-tite!
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Hawgford
Posted on Friday, October 11, 2019 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

woah up nate.. general rule dissimilar metals always get copper based anti seize especially in a heat app. stainless studs are the best to use handling the heat better and chrome/cad plated serrated flange nuts.. The header comes off easy with a mallet tap and a wiggle to back the flanges off the studs.Do not use nylocs or pinch nuts.Theres never a problem if the loose nut connecting the seat to the bars checks all the other nuts ...
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, October 11, 2019 - 05:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have never liked the interference fit nuts that came stock on my bike.
Too hard to tell how tight you're getting it.
I used to have to check the tightness of my exhaust hardware every time I got gas and carried wrenches to tweak them.
Then I noticed how the clamps of my "Daytona Boss" were allowing the whole shebang was jiggling around.

I brazed the clamps to the body of the muffler and the exhaust stopped falling off of the bike.

So now, I am quite certain that the nuts are ON there and will probably take the studs out instead.
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