| Author | Message | ||
     Crazy04 |
http://racingmotorcycles.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BecinRaceExhaust I saw this exhaust and was wondering if anyone has used it or seen it and if so how is it? Thanks | ||
| Daves |
I have seen them and heard them. I am hoping to have them available soon! Dave | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
wow that thing is ugly i hope it sounds and works better than it looks. in any case will it fit under the full fairing? | ||
| Daves |
Yes, it will fit under the race fairing. | ||
| BadS1 |
Its the very same exhaust that Hal's run' on there FX bikes.Come on Dave you knew that. | ||
| Daves |
Yep, and several other racers run them too. Yes, I knew that. | ||
| BadS1 |
Funny thing is when I emailed them a year ago with interest of putting one on my XB12 they told me it may not perform very well on a stock bike with just race ECM and filter.They didn't suggest it.The guy that builds them isn't really far from at all.I wonder what they have done to them cause now they say they perform great on a stock bike???? | ||
| BadS1 |
And I was told by Hal's when I was interested the same thing.Also asked how well they hold up and they do have to weld them up sometimes cause they do crack frequently.But damn you thought Force was loud.  | ||
| Daves |
I was thinking the same thing Bad, that it might be a little much for a stock bike. I'm going to be talking to the guy that builds them hopefully this week yet and see what we can do. | ||
| Hobanbrothers |
When I spoke with Tom last, he had an agreement with Erik/Buell that he could only sell them to racers. I am surprized Rich c still has them on his web site, but maybe something has changed. You would also need the tuneability for this pipe. (I also think the Force is louder than this one, we may even have the decibal readings from Barber to prove it??) It is a very good pipe in race form, I would guess on a 12 it is not bad, but it may be a bit much for a 9. Dave, have you talked to Terry F about this, and my other gig with heads yet?? I know Terry either had this pipe or Tom Becin was going to give him one? | ||
| Slaughter |
I use one on my racebike. It does tend to crack (but I tend to crash - maybe there's a connection?  ) The newer version is SUPPOSED to have another spring connector in mid-pipe but you have to take care when mounting up the pipe NOT TO have any stresses on it. You cannot get a Beson pipe for use with an oxygen sensor (no ports in the pipes, so you'd need a full race ECM in order to run a FI bike) and as far as I know, he won't sell to somebody for street use. Don't know if that is because he has an understanding with Buell or just doesn't want the BS that come with retail sales and whining/b*tching customers. Figure the cost of the pipe PLUS the race ECM... you're pretty close to $2000 We did a "science project" at Bartels Racing with Jeff Ecklund. They put a standard race exhaust on their bike and did a couple pulls and then bolted on my Beson exhaust and did a couple more pulls. The Beson exhaust makes at LEAST 5 HP more than the factory race exhaust. It's also quite a bit lighter. | ||
| Blake |
Cool stuff Steve. Any chance you can snag a copy of those dyno charts and post 'em up?  | ||
| BadS1 |
I think I can maybe take a stab at why they are now avalible.Starting next year BUELL has to meet the desable level at the tracks.And I can see that they have these pipes in just limited quanities.So maybe when there gone there gone.Beson has probably designed BUELLS new race pipe. | ||
| Slaughter |
Blake, I'll see if I can get the charts. I had my pipe off fixing a busted stud and they asked to try the comparison test. I can ask - certainly doesn't hurt! | ||
| Blake |
Thanks. We all will be much obliged. | ||
| Xbolt12 |
I thought the article on the Hals bike in Roadracing World mentioned a different exhaust fabricator from the off-shore racing scene. Obviously the Kosco bike runs the Becin pipe though. Are these one and the same? BTW Roadracing World mentioned the development of a quieter pipe. Sounds interesting. Also one could always weld a bung on for the O2 sensor. xbolt12 | ||
| BadS1 |
Hals run's the Becin and there race bikes are going to be quieter and by alot.They have already been heard and seen. | ||
| Coyote_xb12s |
Off topic a bit but... -Slaughter: I am struggling with repairing a broken stud on my XB12 right now, is this a common thing that has happened to others as well? Is the factory aware of it, I wonder. It really sucks 'cause it's a lot of work to get the headers off, especially the back one. I couldn't afford the labor cost from the shop and it's killing me that I haven't had time to fix it and then when I do get to work on it, I am close to pulling my hair out with frustration!! | ||
| Xbolt12 |
Coyote, Isn't that still under the 2yr warranty? Sure sounds like a warranty issue to me. BadS1, Damn, there goes next years tax refund (quiet Becin=must have xbolt12 | ||
| Slaughter  |
Coyote, First, if you can get it done under warranty, do it... BUT yes, this can happen often. My theory is that a couple things happen: people sometimes over-torque the nuts and the studs fatigue or what SEEMS to be common, is the nuts just loosen. If one side loosens, then the other stud breaks. When you look at it, you have a busted stud AND a loose nut on the other side. I go to a nut-and-bolt specialty house and buy the high temperature engine stud self-locking nuts. They are kind of like a self-locking nut without any insert - they just have the top of the nut squeezed in just enough to "grab" the bolt - giving you a locking feature. I make sure I'm ONLY torquing to 8 ftxlb and just check them every once in a while to make sure they're not loosening. The top rear CAN be reached by using an extension and a universal on your torque wrench - just takes some fiddling to do it but you can pretty easily check all 4 nuts in just a few minutes. Also, use the Screaming Eagle exhaust gaskets - they don't tend to compress and loosen like the stock gaskets do. First thing to do if you're doing your own work you need to buy a Jim's Exhaust Stud Drill Guide. This guide bolts onto the good stud and a protrusion fits into the exhaust port... and the other side puts a drill bushing right where you need to drill out the old stud. Unfortunately for the rear, you need to drop the motor. Fortunately, you don't have to disconnect any electrical, oil, fuel lines if you do it carefully. You will have to hold up the bike because when you pull all the engine mounts, the rear swingarm/wheel is no longer connected to the chassis through the engine (I use a ratchet tie-down up to a chain through a beam in the garage overhead). You'll need a 5/8 x 18 helicoil, tap and installation tool. I have not heard of anybody having any luck using an EZ-out type tool on the studs because the tool is so small and often breaks off in the stud... and then you have to have a machine shop clean it out! There's a pic of the Jim's drill guide at Drill Guide You can see the one side bolts to the good stud, the other side has the drill guide. Comes with the proper size drill (1/4 inch) Once you drill the 1/4 hole, you have to free-hand drill the #21 pilot hole for the Helicoil tap (at least my memory tells me it's a #21 - it's listed on the Helicoil instructions and my tool box is too far away from the computer right now) You can get it at any dealer out of the Drag Specialties catalog. Again, when you drop the motor, it's all easy until you take out the rear isolator and then it can all fall down because the frame needs to be held up. My take on exhaust studs is to NOT over torque them - to use high-temperature, self-locking nuts (the stock nuts can loosen) - DO NOT use "NyLock" type nylon insert self-locking nuts - the nylon will melt out. The nuts are maaaaaAYBE 20 cents apiece. If you have trouble finding some, it just happens that there's a place right by my work that has them, I'd be glad to go get a set of 4 and mail them to you. I've just done a full day on the track yesterday since re-installing the pipes and so far, the exhaust seems to be staying in place. Today is a practice day and tomorrow is practice and 3 races. We'll see if it all holds up. Terry and Hals' said it's even better to safety wire the nuts - but that means dropping the motor to re-tighten or remove the exhaust - but regardless, do not over torque. FOR THOSE WISHING FOR A BESON EXHAUST FOR THEIR STREET BIKE: Again to those considering a Beson for your streetbike, you CANNOT run it on a fuel injected bike without the full race ECM because there are NO PORTS FOR OXYGEN SENSOR! The only way I have heard of buying the factory ECM is through Kosco (though don't know if that's a rumor or not... I don't know HOW they do that???) and then you still need a map - another $250 from them. If you're racing, that makes sense. You MIGHT be able to get a custom pipe made with a port for the oxygen sensor but I haven't heard of it being done. The race module uses a map that you input based on your dyno results, and then there's a "Learned Fuel Value" that you use similar to re-jetting for different conditions - altitude, temperature, etc. This is probably why Buell does NOT WANT the pipe and module sold to non-racers, it takes a LOT to get it right. IF Kosco sells the pipe and module - the $250 for a map based on your particular engine - bore/stroke, cams, valves, compression ratio... that $250 is cheaper than the 2 days on the dyno you'll need to build a map from scratch. | ||
| Glitch  |
Thanks for that Slaughter! +10 Great Post | ||
| Bigdaddy  |
Slaughter, What would be the show-stopper in tapping the pipe and adding a OS port? I'm just posing a question here and not questioning anyones knowledge or logic. I've seen it done on aftermarket auto systems | ||
| BadS1  |
None the less the pipe would not perform well on a relativley stock motor. | ||
| Slaughter |
BigDaddy, You certainly COULD take a Beson pipe to a speedshop who can handle stainless and have them weld a port on the rear for you. That would allow a pretty straightforward swap. You would have to make sure the port did not allow the sensor to extend into the tube at all. Airflow is very critical. You could cut a port out of a stock pipe and have him scab it on maybe??? Keep in mind that to date, there are NO pipes available for the street that won't get you pulled over by every cop in your home county within 5 minutes of starting the motor in the morning. Yesterday in racing at Willow Springs - even the announcer was commenting on the noise and he was in the tower behind closed doors. You really are almost as loud as straight/unbaffled pipes. Supposedly Beson is making a more muffled set of pipes for places like Sears Point and Laguna Seca - and other tracks with noise limits - The pipe is REALLY LOUD - if you've never heard one, you really ought to before you consider it for street - I cannot exaggerate how loud it is. I get other racers commenting/teasing that they can tell when I'm within 100 yards of them - they hear me coming. | ||
| Matty  |
That was funny! I think it actually went something like, "I can't tell if it's Steve coming down the front straight or a stray P-51 ten feet off the deck!" It's funny though. I'd bet a decibel test would show that it's no louder than a force pipe, but since the outlet points straight up to ear level it seems WAY, WAY, WAY louder than anything else out there. Of course it could just be that it is really fu$%^#in loud too. =) |
