| Author | Message | ||
     X3rs |
2000 X-1 this problem started after I wrapped the exhaust, but I can't say for sure it is being caused by the wrapping. I broke an exhaust stud off the front head (top most one). replaced it & used hardened studs this time. I believe they are actually carburetor studs for cars but the board recommended them so I used them. Could not get all of the studs out so only have them in a couple of spots. Anyhow, have now about 250 miles on the bike & noticed that the front head has a bent stud. Yep, the same one that broke before. So I guess the new hardened stud worked, but it is bent & on this bike if something is noticed & not fixed, it will fail. One other note, the wrapping is fraying in a spot that leads me to believe that wrapping is bad (tying the two headers together)is bad & the pipes need to be able to move independently??? Meaning the heads actually move a bit independently. Down where the two headers come together into the collector(and then down to the muffler), I had to terminate one header wrap & then wrap the other header down to that spot & then wrap both together a bit (about 2-3") to cover the termination of the first header - as I continued down to the end & on to the collector. It is at that area that I am getting fraying & a hole . Right in the middle where I have the two wrapped together 2-3"as they go into the collector. I guess you could leave both headers completely separate & stop each individual wrap where both come together at the collector & then start another wrap at the collector. But that would mean you would have to find a way to secure your collector wrap at the start & that would be a large oval area. Plus, you would have each header wrapped & would have to band the top starting point & the bottom ending point of each header & all bands would be visible. Anyway I do not know if any of this is tied together, but I have a stud problem. BTY - what nuts should be used to secure the headers to the heads? Grade & kind of metal please. I have to start all over on nuts. Don't know what the stock ones where anymore. So, thoughts. Actual experience please. I am trying to figure if I have to stop all wrapping. I did it for the looks, but found it lowered the head temp of the bike a bit & that is good. Yes I have a head temp gauge off an airplane installed in the dash. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I have heard it makes the stainless headers brittle due to heat not escaping. And quite honestly I think the stuff looks like crap, like someone is trying to mummify part of the machine. But to each his own. For the money, pull the header and have it jet-hot coated. Same heat characteristics, but a much better look in my opinion. Breaking studs is generally an alignment issue. When you remove the exhaust header, you need to torque it in the direction of exhaust flow. 1. loosen ALL fasteners - muffler hangars, muffler clamp, header hangars, head flange studs. 2. tighten the head studs first. I usually do rear head first, then front. Follow the book procedure. 3. tighten the lower front header hangar. 4. tighten the front muffler hangar 5. tighten the rear muffler hangar. 6. Tighten the muffler to header clamp - I do that one last so the joint can flex as needed when the muffler is torqued to the engine case. | ||
| Bluelightning |
As someone that just fixed my rattle issue and found it was the front exhaust mount, I would start there. these motors vibrate a ton at idle/low rpm. If you have a visible fraying occurring, make sure nothing is rubbing against it then make sure the front muffler mount has no play in it. With all of the bottom free to move, it will move/bend/brake the exhaust studs. If you still have part of the old stud in, you need to get the Jims drill fixture, and drill out the old broken piece. Might be able to use a left hand drill bit to work it out. Replace with good quality studs/nuts. Jims Drill plate: https://www.jpcycles.com/product/440-266/jims-exha ust-stud-drill-plate Generic Sportster stud/nut kit: https://www.jpcycles.com/product/4400265/exhaust-m ounting-studs-and-nuts | ||
| S1owner |
Header wrap will destroy the header. These are thin stainless the wrap traps the heat on and makes them very brittle mine had spider cracks everywhere in under a year. | ||
| Gusm2 |
If it's bending the stud I'd reckon one or all of your motor mounts may be worn and allowing too much movement........ Worth checking | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Even if the motor mounts are worn, the header is on the engine side of the mounts, so any movement that the engine has, the exhaust shouldn't really be stressed by it. I don't assume header wrap is causing you issues with the studs, but it will cause it's own problems so I'd ditch it regardless. | ||
| Gusm2 |
Your right it is, it makes no sense that it's bent a stud unless it was damaged during the install, I've owned my M2 for 17 years and never had an issue with exhaust studs  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Bending studs is an alignment issue / header install issue. |
