| Author | Message | ||
     Dan_m |
Hello guys, today i installed the EBR kit for the front rotor hoping to cure the front brake pulse. So i assembled everything according to the instructions, torqued the bolts to 24Nm, but now if i try to move the rotor by hand side ways, it is not moving a bit. I know that in a fixed caliper and floating rotor combination you should be able to feel some free play at the rotor. So, am i missing something or this is how it should be? I noticed that there is ~0.5mm gap between the steel washer and spring washer. The wheel is not installed on the bike yet. Thanks!  | ||
| Ratbuell |
I didn't try moving mine when I installed the kit but I believe with the removal of the springs, it is now a fixed mount which also helps with heat dissipation, since the wheel can now better act as a heat sink. | ||
| Shoggin |
If you used the EBR mounting hardware it won't 'float' anymore. There is enough caliper clearance so pad knock-back isn't an issue. Where did you find the EBR hardware kit?? | ||
| Ourdee |
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBR-Floating-Front-Brake- Rotor-Mounting-Installation-Hardware-Kit-Buell-XB- 1125/112837114653?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_t rksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 | ||
| Dan_m |
Thanks for replies. So, this is how it should be in conclusion. After i will install the wheel on the bike and do a test ride, i will post here if it cured the brake pulse problem. I've bought the kit from here: https://dieselmoto.com/collections/brakes/products /front-rotor-installation-kit | ||
| Ratbuell |
It isn't designed to fix a brake that already pulses. It's designed to keep a good rotor from going bad in the first place. | ||
| Teeps |
If the EBR rotor mounting kit is installed according to the instructions. There is a small amount of "float", that's what belleville washers are for, they are the springs. The front brake on my '06 Ulysses pulsated continually until installing the EBR kit. After that, no pulsation. Never replaced the rotor. | ||
| Arry |
The pulsing on my bike went away by changing to aftermarket brake pads (EBC FA345HH). I believe the pulsing was caused by residue, from the stock pads, sticking to the surface of the rotor. Others have used different brands of pads. | ||
| Shoggin |
I agree ^^^^ I have found Buell OE rotors to be very sensitive to cheap pads and improper bedding. You get the pulsing, and amateur mechanics scream "Warped rotor!!" and buy all new stuff. I have solved the problem many, many, times by removing the rotor, cleaning the rotor and hardware{u, replacing with EBC FA345HH (ZTL) and bedding properly. YMMV} | ||
| Trevd |
When I installed my EBR rotor and mounting kit a few years ago, the pads would rub on the rotor on every wheel revolution, enough so that the brake would heat up quickly and lead to brake fade, in addition to the vibration I felt through the bars, and the knocking sound. After talking to the EBR engineer, and doing some measurements, we determined that my wheel mounting points were not of the same height. A couple of them were "off" by micro amounts. It's not an issue with the floating mounting system because the "floating" part compensates for the mismatched height of the mounting points, but with the fixed rotor, it was an issue. So I've stuck with my old rotor and floating mounting system. I could take my wheel to a machinist to shave off the required amounts off the wheel mounts, but I just haven't bothered yet. | ||
| Tootal |
Teeps has it right. Belleville washers or spring washers are what makes it feel tight yet they do give a little. I installed the thicker rotor on mine with the mounting kit and use the EBC pads with no problems. Another thing is if you do get a build up try doing some high speed heavy braking once in a while. I had an exit ramp, on the way to work, that was down hill with just a gentle bend. I wicked it up to 100mph as I went into the ramp and then braked hard to make the stop. I'd do that once a week and never had any pulsing again. |
