Author |
Message |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 12:48 am: |
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I have been chasing this leak for over a year now without much luck. Basically, oil would collect on top of the transmission until there was enough to run down the rear and right side around the output shaft. Originally I thought it was all from a bad o-ring on top of the rear pushrod cover that I didn't fix for a while, but a broken exhaust stud forced me to have to rotate the engine so I replaced all the seals and gaskets on the rear head so now the top end is clean and dry. It takes a while for the leak to show by which time it's collected enough dirt to look like engine oil which confuses the issue. I finally left the drive pulley cover off and used multiple cans of brake clean to be sure the whole rear of the engine case was dry then started checking after every ride. It really looks like it's primary oil coming out of the rubber grommet that the stator wires pass through in front of the starter motor. Either that or the starter gasket, but it sure looks like the wires are getting wet first. Has anyone seen this before? I don't even know if that's a replaceable part by itself or if it's part of the stator and wires. Any suggestions? |
Etennuly
| Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 02:56 am: |
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Is it in your top air box cover? Do you try to maintain your oil level above the second X at the bottom of the dip stick? Do you check the oil level when warmed up while it is sitting on the side stand? The swing arm tank is an oil reservoir for the dry sump oil system. We found long ago that it can be overfilled easily by trying to keep the oil level at the top of the X's, and, or holding the bike up right when checking it. Any excess oil pumps into the air box by the pcv system. It then runs down where ever it wants to, usually the rear head area. |
Etennuly
| Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 03:02 am: |
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Be careful with the brake cleaner. It will melt your powder coating. Use purple stuff or simple green 60/40 with water then add about an ounce of dawn dish detergent per quart. Spray let it soak, before it drugs spray it again. Rinse, repeat. |
Steveford
| Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 08:23 am: |
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I haven't noticed that on the XBs but on the tube frame ones you have to seal that rubber alternator lead grommet with silicone seal or else it'll leak. |
Dualsportdad
| Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 10:46 am: |
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Have you installed the updated (tighter) drive belt recently? Mine appears to be leaking from behind the sprocket, I'm sure it's the shaft seal. |
Arry
| Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 05:46 pm: |
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There is a trans/primary vent tube, that ends by the upper shock mount. If that got blocked, I wonder if it would cause a leak at that wire grommet? I have had vent tubes blocked by insects, building nests is the open end. |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 09:47 pm: |
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Etennuly, while I had problems with the top end before, that's taken care of at the moment so no engine oil is involved. Arry, good point, I did not even consider over pressurization of the primary/trans. The hose is relatively new since I burned the old one on the exhaust and had to replace it. Didn't think it would get plugged. The stator leads are way above the oil level so it would only be splash oil running out. Vent couldn't be in a worse place for access but still better than ripping the primary apart. Think I'll try that angle first, thanks. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, April 16, 2018 - 09:26 am: |
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I "cap" all my vent tubes to prevent the insect blockage. Get a plastic hose connector and slide it into the end of the hose. Get a small piece of shop rag / towel / some sort of rag, and use a zip-tie to hold it onto the end of the hose. The plastic connector gives enough structure that the zip tie won't collapse the end of the hose, and the cloth vents enough pressure to let the hose work, while keeping critters from moving in. |
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