| Author | Message | ||
     Demoniktriple6 |
I'm taking my 1125 down for maintenance. Both are doing this and I think this is a good chance to address something that bothers me just a little. The clutch never slips. It doesn't fret. It only has a couple thousand miles since new. I'm the only owner. It does, however (on all the 1125's I've owned), engage the clutch only at the last 1/3" of lever travel. Coming from other bikes in my garage to this, it becomes just a minor irritation, not a huge issue and I can live with it, but since I have it down, I can look at it now. I'd like a little more resolution. Is that possible to alter? | ||
| Araignee |
You can improve the clutch feel with the EBR upgrade at a minimum, with of course a good bleed. Beyond that, you're looking at a new master cylinder, preferably with a 19mm piston. The original Buell/Nissin piston is 15mm, and isn't the best choice given the volume of the slave cylinder, which has to move a big part a long way. I had the same annoying feel from the clutch on my 1125R, and finally went for the Brembo RCS upgrade, doing the brake m/c as well. It was not easy fitting the Brembo components; the remote master cylinders try to hit the fairing bracket and the adjuster knobs for the lever travel try to hit the instrument cluster, the front brake lever banjo bolt tries to interfere with the idle cable, and there are some minor braided line routing issues. It was worth the cost and the effort: much lower lever pressure, less slop and wasted travel, better feel, less weight. It also unclutters the cockpit view, which is kinda cool. I sourced my parts from kurvygirl, who included all the washers and hoses, and even lightened titanium banjo bolts pre-drilled for safety wire. As always, google the forum for alternative takes and advice. | ||
| Torquehd |
An adjustable clutch lever will improve clutch feel. IMHO. | ||
| Araignee |
A couple things I forgot to mention: My problems with interference when mounting the Brembo RCS levers and m/c are partly related to my retaining the OEM upper triple clamp with it's integral clip-ons and mounting system. Others have opted for real clip-ons and custom or EBR upper clamp, which might make your task easier. Vortex makes a decent clip-on, as do many others with underemployed CAD/CAM mills. You may be able to solve the banjo bolt problem by buying another brake line that doesn't cause interference. The cheap solution would be to relieve the top of the titanium banjo bolt to provide clearance -about 1/16 or 1/8" will likely work. And hey- it saves some weight! I plan to trim my bolt next time it needs bleeding. I was also handicapped by switching to bar-end Oberon LED indicators and CRG mirrors, which involved running the indicator wires through the bar to the stock switchgear, then out through the stock sleeving to connect to the original wires. This limited the relocation options of switchgear and the new lever mounts, but I eventually found acceptable and functional compromises. Valtermoto makes several sleek billet alloy covers for re-attaching the fairing at the mirror mount holes. The Oberon bar-ends make a noticeable difference in airflow by eliminating the stock mirrors/indicators. The Oberons and CRG mirrors are also significantly lighter than the OEM items, and the absence of all that silly-looking stuff on stalks cuts fairing vibration. I kinda liked the goofy OEM mirrors: they look like anthropod eyes on stalks, with the pods mimicking claws. Despite their small size -I was skeptical that they could perform at first- the CRGs actually provide a much clearer view, and stay where you put them. Shocking to be able to see something other than fuzzy yet manly shoulders when you check your mirrors, but one adapts. Sometimes less offers more. The Brembo RCS brake comes with a brakelight switch, but it allows a bit of lever travel before it is compressed enough to fire the taillight. Worth bearing in mind if your being followed closely by some poser on a Ducati. If you want to keep your stock clutch switch, you can order a titanium banjo bolt from kurveygirl with an integral switch, which looks similar to the OEM rear brake m/c switch. You're on your own there in coping with interference issues, however, as I just took the easy route and binned the OEM switch. Check the forum for threads on coping with the ECM changes spurred on by that option. I couldn't have done all this without reading tons of advice and opinions from others who had trod similar paths. Chapeau! (Message edited by araignee on September 22, 2017) (Message edited by araignee on September 22, 2017) (Message edited by araignee on September 22, 2017) | ||
| Demoniktriple6 |
OK, good advice here - Also, I have adjustable levers. The dealer had my bikes fully kitted when I picked them up  I'll keep in touch if I decide to go with mods - I'll make some motovlogs about this upgrade and post it. |
