| Author | Message | ||
     Buellrobot |
I just finished replacing the stock oil drive gear, put on XB rocker covers and breathers, and replaced all the oil lines. This was my first time taking off the cam cover and rocker covers. My biggest concern is about getting the cam-gear timing correct – I'm 94% sure I got it right, but want to know if there's anything I can do to confirm 100% before I try starting. And in case I was off a tooth in one direction, will attempting to start the bike destroy anything? I coated the cams/oil drive gear with assembly grease, torqued everything carefully, replaced all gaskets/seals/etc. Aside from replacing engine/primary fluids are there any other major caveats or common pitfalls to watch for? Looking forward to getting back on the road, but am a bit nervous. Thanks for any advice. | ||
| 34nineteen |
If I was in your shoes, I'd pull the spark plugs, then pull the primary cover and spin the motor over using a small ratchet and socket on the front sprocket nut. Then, you can spin the motor over slowly and easily. If something hit/taps you should be able to feel it if there is interference. | ||
| Akbuell |
Another caution: When I did mine, I had the same concerns about cam timing. At start-up following assembly, the engine sounded terrible; so bad I immediately shut it down. Spent a long time considering taking it all apart, decided not to. Thinking about the situation, I decided a lifter had bled down, causing excess valve clearance. Did a careful, sub 2K rpm lap around the block, and all was well. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Harleyelf |
You can turn the motor over without pulling the primary if you just suspend the rear wheel, put it in gear, and turn the wheel (plugs out, of course) by hand. | ||
| Buellrobot |
I did what harleyelf suggested and also reset the static timing. Things seem to sound ok when I turned the engine over. I did notice that my running lights didn't turn on. Although most everything else worked: headlight, blinkers, horn, brake lights (w/ lever or brake pedal). I checked the fuses and they visually all looked good. Anyone know of an easy ways to troubleshoot? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Start with the bulbs. Then check the wire behind the socket. Then get a multi-meter and chase the wire until you find 12 volt current and restore the path from there. (Message edited by harleyelf on May 15, 2017) | ||
| Buellrobot |
The bulbs all seem work as expected when I turn on the blinkers and put on the brakes – it's just the running lights that won't turn on. I'm a bit dense with electrical; there's just a single bulb in each light that has less power running through it for "running lights mode", or is it two filaments? I re-routed the part of the wiring loom that goes under the battery and forward to the voltage regulator. Possible that I caused a short or something... (Message edited by buellrobot on May 17, 2017) | ||
| Buellrobot |
Found the culprit for no running lights (brake light bulb). Thanks for the tip(s) Harleyelf.  | ||
| Buellrobot |
Replacement bulb for brake light and the running lights were in good order. I buttoned everything up last night and then said a little prayer before pushing the starter button. It fired up and made a real loud racket. The lifters were super noisy for about 2-3 minutes – and then they started making a metal pinging noise for about 10 seconds – I gently blipped the throttle and it went away (and didn't return). After letting the bike warm up for 5 minutes or so, I rode gently around the block a few times. It seemed like things settled in and it was running really smoothly, so I took it out for a longer ride... overall it ran well, but going to write a short (separate) post about what happened. Thanks Harleyelf, AK, and 34nineteen for the encouragement and tips. |
