Author |
Message |
Steven_vuyk
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 12:30 pm: |
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Hi guys. New problem... 12.5vdc and then as i put ignition on it drops to 9vdc. Drains battery when i try to start and just clicks like the battery is flat but when i turn ignotion off it goes back up to 12vdc. Anything i could check.? As i went throught the wiring with my manual and there is nothing that has changed. All i did was replace the tail light but even with the tail light plug unplugged it still does it. Im lost for ideas. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 12:52 pm: |
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The battery is at his end of life! Get a new good quality battery and all the problems are gone! |
Upthemaiden
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 01:04 pm: |
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I agree! Stick a new battery in that sucker. |
Steven_vuyk
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 01:54 pm: |
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Using a car battery off jumpers |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 02:00 pm: |
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Use a car battery with proper battery cables bolted to your cables, and the old battery disconnected. The bolts from the dead battery work fine for cable-to-cable joins, and pieces of bicycle inner tube make great insulators. First, take the ground cable off your bike and file the end shiny, then sand the place where it bolts to the frame shiny, then re-assemble. (Message edited by harleyelf on April 03, 2017) |
Steven_vuyk
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 03:07 pm: |
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Ok I'll do that thanks. Post my findings tomorrow. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 07:50 pm: |
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It's the battery. 12.5 is low to start with, sitting should be a hair over 13. Instant V drop means you are carrying no amps. Put a new battery in and perform the same tests, you'll see what I mean. Cranking V should never drop below 11.5 IIRC. |
H0gwash
| Posted on Monday, April 03, 2017 - 09:06 pm: |
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I had this exact problem once on my M2. People suggested I get a cheap load tester. It showed that both my bike battery and car battery were dead. (Message edited by h0gwash on April 03, 2017) |
Steven_vuyk
| Posted on Tuesday, April 04, 2017 - 11:37 am: |
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Ok cool I'll try using the cars battery with decent leads firstly. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Tuesday, April 04, 2017 - 02:12 pm: |
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The new battery will last longer if it has clean cables, especially where the ground cable meets the frame. I like Interstate. HOgwash has a good point. Use a known good car battery or don't bother with the test. |
Brentx1
| Posted on Tuesday, April 04, 2017 - 02:14 pm: |
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Ground!!!! Had the same issue with my S1. Found the ground that connects under the battery tray bad. Just a thought. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, April 04, 2017 - 08:49 pm: |
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Bad ground wouldn't show as a voltage drop at the battery. At the starter, maybe...but at the battery, nope. The battery is on the battery side of the ground strap. |
Midknyte
| Posted on Wednesday, April 05, 2017 - 01:48 am: |
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Do note though - if jumping from a car battery [that is still in a car], do not do it with the car running as you would if you were jumping another car. Run the risk of overloading the bike. |
Steven_vuyk
| Posted on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 03:20 am: |
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Thank you all fir the guidance. It was the battery. Previous owner put in a 14Ah. I went and bought a 18Ah as per specs. All good and running like a boss again. Again thank you to all. |