| Author | Message | ||
     Damnut |
I had an issue riding home the other day where my dash kept shutting off and my electrical accessories where acting up.(blinkers/headlight not working right) When I shut if off, it wouldn't turn over or fire up. So now I have it in my garage and I'm reading 10.8V at all of my ground points, even at the ground point on the frame behind the headlight. I have the dash disconnected and was reading voltages on pins 5 & 6. (P5/GND-P6/12V) I get 12.8V on pin 6 and 10.8V on pin 5 from each pin to the negative terminal on my battery. I connected the negative wire from a LED taillight that I have to the negative on the battery and stuck the positive side of the light into pin 5 on the dash. Well the taillight lit up. If I unplug the KEY SW fuse the voltage drops to 1.3V If I unplug the IGNITION relay the voltage drops to 9.6V. If I unplug the KEY SWITCH relay the voltage drops to 9.6V. If I unplug both of the relays above the voltage drops to 1.3V and if I plug any one off them into either socket I get 9.6V. If I connect a wire to the negative side of the battery and ground out the chassis everything seems to work ok. When I do that I can hear the relays click. So I'm not sure of it's an actual grounding problem or something else weird going on. Any advise would be most helpful as I don't want to fry anything by grounding out the chassis. | ||
| Sparky |
"If I connect a wire to the negative side of the battery and ground out the chassis everything seems to work ok. When I do that I can hear the relays click." That tells me that the battery negative post to the chassis ground is open. Try replacing the battery negative cable or, as a minimum, check continuity of the negative cable after disconnecting it at both ends - it should have zero resistance. If it checks out OK, then clean the place where the cable attaches to the chassis. | ||
| Damnut |
Yeah I've been overthinking it, it's definitely an open ground problem. I need to find out where the first chassis ground is on this bike, I think that's where the issue is. Ideally I'd like to find the problem instead of just adding my own battery to chassis ground. I don't really want to cut into my main harness but I'm going to have to in order to fix it. The electronics on the front of the bike have a separate chassis ground behind the headlight and that part checks out ok. | ||
| Crusty |
Jim; before you cut into the harness, see if you can find the point where the negative cable connects to the frame. it might be something as easy as a loose bolt or maybe a bit of corrosion between the cable end and the frame. I just have a strong suspicion that it's going to be something simple and easy to remedy. | ||
| Damnut |
The problem is that I don't know where that chassis ground is. | ||
| Coolice |
Main ground is to the left of the fuel pump. 8mm or T-27 to tighten. | ||
| Damnut |
Thanks Mike! | ||
| Damnut |
Well it seems as though someone forgot to put the bolt through the eye of the ring terminal of the main ground. This is the way I found it. The bolt was there, I just thought to take a picture after I removed it. Before I bought the bike, the dealer replaced the fuel pump because something was wrong with it. It looks like the mechanic missed a crucial part of the reassembly. Oops. Thanks Mike for saving me valuable time by letting me know where that ground point was! I asked on multiple platforms without an answer, BadWeb rocks.  | ||
| Crusty |
I love it when my instincts get validated. I'm really glad that the cure is so easy and simple. |
