| Author | Message | ||
     X1bully |
Got my canister but looks like most of the inside packing is gone. I watched a few videos on packing material and the white ceramic stuff is pretty impressive. Does anyone do this service where I can send the muffler to them to repack with the correct rivits? | ||
| S1owner |
Not sure But you could try Deanadams off badweb he builds custom stainless exhausts. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Rock wool is what I used to repackage my muffler, it's really cheap pan with a good drill and some rivets it's really easy to do. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Stove rope or something like this, http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/12246/i/two-b rothers-racing-muffler-repack-kit | ||
| Reepicheep |
We have information in: Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Parts sources and recommended replacements » Repacking kits for Tuber "Pro Race" exhausts Here is the direct link to it: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=2554572#POST2554572 It says: Compliments of Al Lighton and shared by Steveford: http://www.bristolcore.com/product_p/e3-0125.htm Description quote: This packing pillow is designed to repack the 12.5" long Buell Race Muffler. It is filled with 500 grams of our high performance Spec 31 packing and pre-compressed with stitches to facilitate installation. This kit includes a drill bit and twelve rivets. quote: Product Code: E3-0125 (but it's formatted better there, so follow the link....  ) Thanks Al! | ||
| X1bully |
Do you guys know where to get the brace that wraps around the canister? It attached to a steel wire as a just in case measure for the race can. I still have the heavy cable wire but not the brace itself. Thanks. Interesting ideas of different materials. The one thing I'm most worried about is the rivits done right. The kit above has steel rivits with a coating. Not stainless. I read aluminum rivits won't last. Well the issue with my canister now is all the packing flew out when it cracked so it's empty. Then rivits started to pop out. Like explosions. Maybe the air was igniting the gas in the pipe. There are a few rivits missing. All at the end cap. Here are the pics of my new used can. 11,000 miles on it. I think I read the original packing lasts 15,000 or was it 5,000. It kinda looks like steel wool but I've seen videos where it gets burnt very fast. Maybe it's just dirty fiberglass. I'm thinking of just not messing with it and just install it now. Looks like half or 1/4 of the packing is still in there.   | ||
| Alfau |
I pack mine about every 2 years. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
It's better to check and repack now its off. When it's going empty ,everything starts rattling and could crack. | ||
| S1owner |
Why not order the correct rivets also? | ||
| X1bully |
The original stainless rivits can be ordered from a Harley Davidson dealership? Nothing is loose. I read the packing holds the sleeve in or something like that. The core tube is free floating? Not welded on? Any idea how many miles the new packing material type stuff can last? | ||
| Alfau |
original stainless rivets Stainless rivets are not necessary. I'm not sure if they ever were stainless. How many miles packing last ? In my experience . To avoid being arrested, around 2 years. whatever that is in Yankie Doodle Dandie. (Message edited by alfau on November 01, 2016) | ||
| X1bully |
What side cap is taken off for the repack? Inlet or tail pipe? I think the tail cap since the front is crucial it should stay original unless it's a design where the front has to be taken off to repack. I probably will let a professional handle this but always good to know. I'm in CA and it's a over populated traffic nightmare.. Every year there are more bikers of all sorts it's cool but hopefully does not get more restricting laws passed. Currently everything is pretty cool in CA. I've been riding daily for years. I've got over 100k miles in the concrete jungle of LA. Never got a exhaust ticket except when I was flogging like a mofo and it was not on the buell. Never got a speeding ticket on a bike either. After a trackday I'm pretty chill.. Track is way more fun. Good to do one a year to get it out of the system if you're a demon.  I've been thinking of getting a busa for commuting and drag racing. I do enjoy riding the buell. Everytime I ride it. I'm thinking it will need a clutch soon so probably should do that with the leaking transmission bushings. | ||
| Ralph |
Rivet choice depends on the cans material. My muffler has an aluminum body so I use aluminum rivets. Steel rivets will wear the holes in the muffler body out - rivets are cheap and easy to find, the muffler body is not. I check the muffler every oil change, if a rivet snaps, I pop in a new one. If you have a steel body muffler, then I suppose stainless rivets are a go. You can find all types of rivets in the big box stores or ebay. | ||
| X1bully |
Thinking of going with the bristolcore kit. No one seems to be willing to do it. Called two HD dealers and another dealership. Got to find a independent shop or muffler shop. More difficult than expected. Wonder why they won't repack it? | ||
| S1owner |
Because there is no manual on how to do it and they would rather sell you a new one. | ||
| X1bully |
Yeah I don't want it done wrong. lol. Looks like anybody that's done one for a mx bike could do it though. |
