Author |
Message |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 10:29 am: |
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The bike once fired up runs perfect, but starting it takes a lot of cycles, some times there is not enough juice in the battery for so many cycles, and I need to hook it up to the car battery, the battery holds charge fine, fuel pump runs fine, al seems ok, but after a few days with out using the bike, and on the tender I it refuses to start, after a while riding if fires up at first cycle, even after a few hours sitting. Any idea of what it could be? Thanks |
Ducxl
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 11:47 am: |
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Yeah...I think it's the battery..I know you say holds charge but,it MAY be weak and can no longer hold charge under Deep cycling at initial start.Upon that it loses enough charge voltage to run the bike.INCIDENTALLY...how OLD IS the battery? |
S1owner
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 12:21 pm: |
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Battery is done its not pushing the amperage needed to turn the starter fast enough to start the motor. Buy a nice battery spend the money its well worth it otherwise it will do it again in a year. Also if you dont have one buy a battery tender and get s quick connect that way when its sitting more than a day or two the tender will keep the battery up to snuff. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 01:03 pm: |
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Don't know the age of the battery, but it has good amp and I use a battery tender, if does cycle a lot but, bike takes a lot of cycles before it starts, so I know it's not the battery, but strange that once it starts all works fine. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 01:19 pm: |
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Try to start it with spraying some brake cleaner into the intake to see what it does. It could be that the injectors are not giving a good enough spray. Or try it with the car battery hooked up with first cold start. |
Akbuell
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 01:45 pm: |
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Have . . . . No, HAD that same problem with my '01 X-1. Good battery, on a tender, and if not started in a while it would turn over and fire but not start and run. Starting it w/the battery tender on really helped. I eventually went to the push button starter motor cover. Thought about that for a while, and finally replaced the ignition switch. That solved the problem. Poor internal switch contacts did Something (perhaps almost but not quite enough electricity/amps getting through) to prevent the ignition system from allowing a start. Might do to ohm the switch; could be less than ideal. Hope this helps, Dave |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 04:31 pm: |
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May I suggest you take a 10mm wrench and ensure your battery clamps are good and tight! Carry on |
Ducxl
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 04:56 pm: |
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quote:Don't know the age of the battery, but it has good amp
So you DID test it with an ammeter (IMPORTANT INFO)?? I still think it's the battery.Especially since you DON'T know it's age.4 years...5 YEARS MAYBE,otherwise you're overworking the regulator.YOU say it runs fine WHEN you can get it running which does not sound like a fuelling issue. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 05:21 pm: |
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I take notice and see where it ends up. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2016 - 08:19 pm: |
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How clean is the connection from the ground cable to the frame? |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2016 - 06:16 am: |
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I changed the plugs as I had some spare iridium ones ( I was using iridium) the bike sit for 24 hours the bike started up straight away, I guess it doesn't like sitting for a few days, I see in a couple of days how it goes. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 10:05 am: |
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Left the bike sitting for two days, battery voltage was 12'6 same problem. |
Akbuell
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 10:12 am: |
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Try making a jumper to bypass the ignition switch. Could help eliminate a possible trouble source . . . And if it has been a while, a TPS reset can't hurt . . . (Message edited by Akbuell on November 17, 2016) |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 11:48 am: |
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Checked the battery at full charge it gives 13'2 amp, at Tps and afv was done a couple weeks ago, I guess the cold doesn't help much, I have a spare battery I'll charge it up and see if it's better. I think the stock battery gives 200 miliamp, but some others same size give 250 that should make the start easier. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 01:13 pm: |
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You probably mean 13.2 volts, which is perfect. And for starting current, I think you mean 200 amp vs. 250 amp cold cranking amps. Bigger is of course better if the specs don't lie, but my guess is the specs almost always lie. Just make sure the battery fits in the battery hole and has the + and - on the correct sides and with the right kind of mounts. |
S1owner
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 01:31 pm: |
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Batteries can be deceiving and can appear fine accept under load. It could also be in your kill switch these bikes take full load through that little switch and it creates priblems. Some have put them on a relay. My S1 used to da a similar thing I replaced the battery and cleaned all grounds striped all paint and used dielectric grease and the issue went away |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 04:09 pm: |
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What is battery voltage while cranking, that is real test,if it dips too low injectors and plugs won't fire properly. |
Ducxl
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2016 - 06:28 pm: |
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^^^^^^^^^^WHAT HE SAID.You have a weak battery.I'll BET if you attach a voltmeter and hit the starter the voltage dips below 10 volts.Just spend the money and put a KNOWN NEW battery in it. |
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