| Author | Message | ||
     Malott442 |
1. Sag: I want to know what the front and rear sag needs to be, not how many clicks the load is.... 2. Chain tension at 30mm- is this on the side stand, under natural sag, or loaded sag? Thanks, and Merry Christmas! | ||
| M1combat |
1. Sag doesn't depend on motorcycle type. The manual lists a setting to get you in the right area. After that it's about riding it and seeing how it works for you. You won't be riding it hard enough on the street to need an adjustment beyond what they say in the manual unless you just prefer something different. That said... The sag measurements effectively define the "balance" of the motorcycle. It's not to be ••••••• with in sizable amounts. It's a very fine adjustment that is best adjusted after finding the limit on tracks. 2. If they don't say to put the rider on the bike or to stand the bike up then measure it on the stand with no rider. | ||
| M1combat |
I suppose another comment is likely needed... Buell/EBR has been generally known to put settings in the manual that are much more aggressive than other manufacturers that put "idiot safe" settings in their manuals. The settings in the book should do fine as a roughed in track setup. It will need some tweaking (Likely a little more front sag) but should be a good ball-park to start in. (Message edited by M1Combat on December 24, 2015) | ||
| Malott442 |
@m1combat: at the recommended sag, with the chain adjusted on the side stand, my chain is taut at rest with me sitting on it. I'm highly skeptical of this adjustment. Tight chains beat up bearings, sprockets, and rob horsepower. Loose chains are not great either.... I'm just looking for what will work best for longetivity, since front sprockets are white unicorns. | ||
| M1combat |
Makes sense... Are you sure the preload on the shock is correct? I would imagine that as the rider weight goes up a bit more slack in the chain while on the kickstand is warranted. You definitely don't want it tight. | ||
| Stevel |
Correct chain adjustment is minimum slack at the tightest point within the travel arc of the swing arm. This adjustment has nothing to do with your suspension settings. This depends on the sprockets and chain in use....nothing else. The easiest way to do this and have confidence of it being correct, is to disconnect the suspension spring and shock with the back of the bike suspended off the ground and then manually lift the wheel throughout it travel arc. You can then determine easily the exact axle position required for the parts in use. | ||
| Tpoppa |
I've always found Buell's (never had an EBR) recommended suspension settings to be too stiff for aggressive street riding. After incrementally softening the comp and rebound, I find them much more capable of high speed cornering on less than perfect roads. | ||
| Surfsofa |
I have a follow-up question which I'm almost embarrassed to ask, but hey, this is the internet and many stupid questions are asked on the internet. The manual says that preload should be set with "turns in from minimum". On the fork leg the dial is labelled H<->L, with low presumably being all the way counter-clockwise. So, if going with manual settings should I be counting clicks clockwise from L/Minimum, or counter-clockwise from H/Maximum? The reason I'm confused is they have two ** in the preload column, and the description for that says clicks in from maximum, rather than from minimum. The bike has felt very stiff at the front end, which has been awesome for cornering confidence, but way too stiff for California's terrible roads. | ||
| Dannybuell |
preload is at the top of the forks, you are screwing the spring down. | ||
| Jeremyn |
I literally just emailed tech@ebr about the chain adjustment. I was afraid that mine was to tight because mine seemed much tighter when I sat on the bike. I told them I set it to 30 mm while on the side stand. They replied that is the correct procedure as with the idler sprocket the tension changes much less. Their response. You are adjusting it correctly. The chain will be tighter when you sit on it, but not much. With the idler sprocket the tension on the chain changes much less than it does on most other bikes when the swing are sweeps through its motion. Thank you, EBR Tech Just in case anyone needed additional help. | ||
| Surfsofa |
Useful, thanks Jeremyn Dannybuell - I beg to differ, that's not what the manual says. Preload is at the bottom of the fork leg according to my manual. So my question above stands. Anyone know? | ||
| Surfsofa |
OK, played with settings and found my answer. I'm pretty sure L equates to full anti-clockwise equates to minimum preload. After tweaking this and rebound my SX is now nicely balanced between comfort and feel. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Danny - the BPF has comp and rebound on the top cap. Not sure how they do it but preload is at the bottom? Just did a quick scan thru the "service manual" and only saw the top cap. Z | ||
| Snacktoast |
Not sure how they do it but preload is at the bottom? There is a wedge-shaped block inside the bottom portion of the fork that will add or decrease pre-load when the adjuster is turned. |
