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Decter8425
Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2016 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello all,

New to the forum. Got back around a year ago from deployment and my wife had bought an 02 Buell Blast as a starter bike for herself.

Great idea, perfect to learn on, low weight.. Fast forward a year, she had ridden it once and starting a few weeks back it doesn't want to start.

Originally, I thought the battery was just low so I charged it. The bike then just keeps turning over until the battery died.

Next, tried doing a manual jump with speed. At speed, around 10 mpg, it runs just fine. Below that, it dies. Finally got it going, and it doesn't maintain idle well.

A few weeks later, figured it was a carb issue so I removed it and did some cleaning. Had just done some work on my VMax's carb so I figured why not?

Now, the bike wont start and I got some smoke out of the carb while trying.

Any thoughts?

Thanks all,
Nick
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, September 19, 2016 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not familiar with Blast but I'll throw out some ideas to think about. Sorry if I'm off-base. I'm sure someone will correct me.

Make sure your fuel lines and fuel vents aren't pinched. Maybe it's just not getting fuel.

Is the gas in the tank old and nasty (Ethanol additives absorb water)?

Maybe the idle is just set too low. Is Blast FI? Does it need TPS reset?

Not sure if a Blast has a Vacuum Operated Enrichment System (VOES) on it. It easy to leave it un-hooked after doing carb work.

Charge the battery and then take it to Auto Parts store for a load test. The batteries seem to loose there ability to pull a load if they sit flat along time.

Clean all grounds, battery connections, connector connections, relay terminals, etc. Clean with Electronics parts cleaner and small stiff brush. Do not use sandpaper as it can wear off the very thin outer coating on connections. When clean, put a thin film of dielectric grease on all connections before re-assembly. This will correct problems you never knew you had and prevent problems you will soon have.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 07:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How confident are you in the carb work? That might have made it worse because you did something wrong (easy to do, put a needle in wrong, bent the float tang which sets the float height, messed up some soft brass jet).

Or it might have made it worse because you are on the right track, and you are moving junk from where it was to on it's way out but not done yet.

It sounds like something you did messed something up, so I would track that down first, and that's hard to do without seeing things.
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Decter8425
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the responses.

To update you, I verified I am getting consistent spark and changed both the plug and wires. Consistency was done with a spark plug tester. I bought and installed a new battery just for good measure, all to now avail.


You make an excellent point that I may have made a mistake and/or moved some junk around.

Do you know where I can find a tutorial on how to properly completely clean a Buell Blast Carb? Or a diagram of it at least?

All I did when I pulled it off was spray it down with carb cleaner, including into some of the jets and then blast it with some low pressure air. Same solution which worked well on my Vmax.

Should I have done more?
Nick

(Message edited by decter8425 on September 20, 2016)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 08:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know of any good guides. The most likely things I can think of from rebuilding a bunch of carbs would be:

1) Fiddling with the air/fuel screw and putting it out of spec
2) Fiddling with the idle screw and putting it out of spec
3) loosing / bending needle
4) Loosing float hinge pin
5) Bending needle tab on float (which controls float level)
6) Buggering up some orifice by using hard metal to try and clean soft brass

Dumb question, but isn't the blast carb a CV carb like the M2? If so, I suppose you could have blown compressed air in the wrong hole and blown a hole in the diaphragm. Other than that, I can't think of much in a carb that compressed air could hurt. So check the diaphragms (if the carb has them).
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Britchri10
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Look at the Thumper forum on this site.
To the best of my recollection, the Blast carb is diagrammed there.
Also, there are many Blast owners who post solely in the Thumper Section. (It is Blast specific).
The connector boot between the carb and the engine intake is a known weak point on Blasts.
(It's commonly referred to as the Boot)
Check this for air leaks and for correct installation as a starting point.
(Sorry, but I haven't owned a Blast for the last seven years)
Chris C
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