| Author | Message | ||
     Cbig |
I don't have the manual, but do have a atv jack, basic tools it looks straight forward to install front isolator,any tips, torque settings, blue locktite ? Bit of a story on the two isolators but I will put one up for sale if anyone needs one. Chuck | ||
| Reepicheep |
Most of the time it was pretty easy. Do jack up the bike to take the load off the mount as the bolt comes out, or you will have a really hard time getting it back in without cross threading something. For reasons I can't explain, it was a big headache one time on my XB9SX. No crash damage, it just wouldn't line up right. But other times on that same bike, and on my Uly, it was a near trivial operation. So just take your time taking all loads off before you remove the original bolts completely. A floor jack under the front of the exhaust will probably work fine, just leave it on the side stand also to tripod it, and be careful you don't pull the thing down onto your head while torquing to spec with a real torque wrench. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
With the bike on side stand or on a steady rear stand loosen up the isolator bolt and the two mount to head bolts a turn or two. (also undo the clutch cable clip) Put a scissor jack under the front side of the muffler ,jack it up till you see that the front isolator is unloaded. Remove the big isolator bolt and then the two smaller bolts. Putting on the new isolator is doing this in reverse! Take your time with this and everything goes smoothly! | ||
| Al_lighton |
It is fairly critical to raise/lower the engine to the right position to remove the big isolator bolt. If the engine is jacked too high or too low, it binds that bolt. And most importantly, before you put that big bolt back through the isolator, slather it in antisieze on both the threaded and non threaded portion. The manual says to coat it, but most of the first removals from the factory revealed little, if any, antisieze on that bolt. On bikes operated in the wet all the time, it was fairly common for that bolt to corrode to the sleeve in the isolator and the threaded insert in the frame. More than once I saw the threaded insert in the frame start to unthread instead of the big bolt unthreading from that insert because of corrosion. It is a royal PITA when that happens. | ||
| Phelan |
I can attest to the frustration when that happens, as it happened to me. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh, and I take back my comment about tripoding on the side stand for this job. Put a pipe / rebar through the rear axle with jack stands on either side, raise and level them to get the rear wheel off the ground, then jack up the front of the muffler with a floor jack. | ||
| Al_lighton |
What Bill said...you really want the bike level when you're raising the front of the engine up and down to take the load off the bolt. | ||
| Ducxl |
I KNOW you guys will call OVERKILL but...On both my Tuber AND XB I've found it easiest to support the engine from below and LIFT off the frame.How I would do isolators | ||
| Cbig |
Easiest bike job ever on a buell. I simply hooked the handlebars to tie down points in my toyhauler motrhome, jacked ever so slowly that I could turn the main bolt,bout it came, 20 min tops. Old one torn. If anyone needs an extra I may have one monday. |
