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Bikerrides
| Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 06:41 pm: |
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So, I'm going through a divorce and had to rent a storage unit to store my bikes and stuff! I felt l should cover them just for the extra protection from dust, etc that wasn't an issue at the other place. One day in January, l went out on my S3 and noticed some mold on one of my fairing bags. We were having an inordinate amount of rain and there was also a leak in the roof of the unit, which has since been repaired. Didn't think much of it until the next time l went out a couple of weeks later and discovered mold growing on both bikes! Well, l am no longer covering the bikes, the leak was fixed, and it isn't raining everyday, like it was in SC back in late December/January! After washing the bikes to get the mold off, l put several pans of charcoal and clay litter to help absorb moisture out of the air. It seemed to be working. Now, l am noticing that some of the raw metal parts are corroding like screw heads, nuts, front motor mount, starter, etc. Anything plated or polished seems fine. I was going to buy a storage building to put them in, but l may be moving to another part of the state or another state altogether in the next 4 months and don't need to spend that money now. In the mean time, is there something l can do to stop or slow the corrosion on those raw metal parts? Would a coating of WD40 or silicone spray lubricant do the trick? |
M2owner
| Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 07:19 pm: |
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WD40 should help a lot. |
K12pilot
| Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 08:07 pm: |
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Wash.. Dry... cover in WD.. Good to go (or sit) for a while. I have a couple bikes pickled this way at the moment. Air flow is also critical, maybe a small fan in there would help also |
Ebutch
| Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 09:52 pm: |
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3 or 4 plastic pales of calcium will suck up moisture in a humid Building + keep an eye on them to be see an change as necessary.We don't have as much high humidity as the south up here.That Orange S3 is Very NICE !!!!!!!! An old mans opinion. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 10:10 pm: |
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Also in 1970 lost a Bucco leather coat in Marietta GA in a garage to Mildew. (Message edited by ebutch on March 13, 2016) |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 11:13 pm: |
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Is there electricity? Dehumidifier with a hose outlet on the pail - don't have to drain it that way, just route the hose through a hole in the wall. +1 on the WD40. This is about ALL that stuff is good for...but it should help. |
Waveguides
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 07:07 am: |
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I've had great luck with S100 Corrosion Protectant (on all surfaces) found at MC Stores and Dealers. For electrical connections get Corrosion Block, mostly at boat stores and good hardware stores. Anabec wash is best for mold and mildew remediation. Bon Chance... |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 08:53 am: |
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Storage units are generally not sealed so a dehumidifier will not really help. Sucks about your divorce. Find a place with a garage and get your stuff out of storage. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 10:39 am: |
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Actually a dehumidifier will help a LOT. It may not be as efficient (think a/c with windows open), but it will do wonders for keeping the unit dry. It'll just have to work a bit harder is all. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 12:52 pm: |
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I'd ask storage for a insurance claim form on damage to your Property !!!! They most definitely have a responsibility !!!!!! You paid in good-faith for a safe place for your property !!!!! |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 03:17 pm: |
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"Actually a dehumidifier will help a LOT" Some storage units have chain link ceilings open to all the other units and the rest of the non-insulated warehouse. You're trying to dehumidify South Carolina at that point. But even if it has a ceiling, in the South, where humidity is high, running a dehumidifier in a non sealed space...you may as well have the thing running in your back yard for all the good it will do you. If the room is reasonably well sealed (drywall, mud and taped, tight fitting rollup door) it may help, but as noted, it will run a lot. Most storage units only have lights in them, and the circuit breaker will likely not be able to handle the load of a dehumidifier, which is essentially an AC unit. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 03:18 pm: |
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There ARE air conditioned storage units out there. Going to be more expensive. |
Lakes
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 06:03 pm: |
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Well just thought i would tell you what i have always done. & i have never had oxidation or rust, but a friend of mine who does not do this & who stored his old Harley un covered in a steel container like ships carry, his alloy was covered in oxidation. i live across the road from salt water on the coast of Australia. i cover my bikes with cotton sheets & blankets canvas old doona's i have about 6 layers of them covering my M2 i wrap the race cleaner ( Carbon air cleaner ) with an old Towel i put a cotton rag up the tail pipe. no oxidation no rust been doing this for ever. cotton sheets with tanned leather covering bike also works a friend uses that. a metallurgist friend told me when he lived in Canada it snowed some people used heated storage to keep bikes , but he said that causes humidity , i have only seen snow a few times in my life & have never had it snow where i live. just saw it in USA & here in Alpine snowy mountains Australia. |
Bikerrides
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 06:54 pm: |
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Thanks so much guys! Some great sounding advice. Without spending $2500 on a storage building that l may not need in 4 months, assuming l move, in the middle of divorce expenses, is not what l need to do right now. The unit is not climate controlled and doesn't have power. Also, it is not sealed off from the other units. So, a dehumidifier isnt an option. My concern with WD40 is the mess it will attract if l go out for a ride or two. Maybe the S100 might work at that point; l may already have some. Keep the suggestions coming! |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 07:38 pm: |
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I forgot about the cotton sheet trick. I've never done it, but I have heard it works. Probably has something to do with preventing condensation at night...? You should still hit those fasteners with something, since it has already started. |
Bikerrides
| Posted on Monday, March 14, 2016 - 08:32 pm: |
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I just went over and sprayed the starter with WD40 and tried the silicon lube on the screw heads, etc. l need to get a cotton sheet, too! That will also help keep the pollen and dust off the bikes while in storage, too. Pollen at this time of year is hell in Augusta! Looks like smog it's so thick in the air. Both bikes already had a coating on them! |
Lakes
| Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2016 - 02:54 pm: |
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The cotton absorbs moisture, the more covering you put over it the better, don't forget cotton rag up tail pipe as your cylinders are bare metal you will always have a valve slightly open in head when motor stops most have free breathing muffler so a cotton rag up the pipe seals from moisture too & a towl covering air cleaner a good idea too. |
Renter
| Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2016 - 07:08 pm: |
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If i ever have to store long time i will use VacBag system and after vacuum fill partially with argon or nitrogen. Google vacbag for general idea. I am sure you guys have something similar available. p.s. get an axle stand to position bike, put extra pressure in tyres and remove remaining oil from tank after the bike shut down for a night and some seeped back into sump. Disconnect battery. (Message edited by renter on March 15, 2016) |
Bikerrides
| Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2016 - 08:45 pm: |
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The bikes are being ridden at least every two weeks and are not in long-term storage. I use the unit like a garage. It is about 3 blocks away and l can practically see it from my back yard. When l want to ride, l grab my gear and l'm there in less than 5 mins. But, there is enough of an environmental issue that the fasteners and raw metal on my S3 is getting a light, white, powdery substance on them. Oddly enough, it doesn't seem to be happening on my S2. Higher grade nuts and bolts l suppose! |
Jmanscotch
| Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2016 - 05:51 pm: |
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As someone whom makes a living mitigating corrosion; the advice here is good: avoid moisture by whichever means fits your ability. The parts effected won't get much worse if the environment stays dry and the bikes stay clean, so when you get the chance, do scrub the areas clean of the oxidation and coat them with some sort of barrier (wd40 works fine and would be annoying as it collects dust, but is also inexpensive and quick). |
Drhach
| Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2016 - 01:37 pm: |
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I'll have to try the cotton sheet trick. I will say that I'd rather clean WD-40 grime than rust off of my bike. |
Bikerrides
| Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2016 - 10:41 pm: |
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So, my brother made this suggestion and it seems to have worked great! He had me google Marvel Mystery Oil rust removal. Watched a few vids of people using it to remove oxydation from aluminum forks, rims, engine cases, chrome, etc on motorcycles. So, l bought some and a set of hobby paint brushes and proceded to paint all the fasteners with a coating of mystery oil. Wow, most of them immediately turned back to normal! When l went back a week later, everything looked great! Problem solved! |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Friday, April 29, 2016 - 11:55 pm: |
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I remember an old Harley guy told me to use spray furniture polish. Haven't tried it bu t it makes sense. |
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