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Footstuck
| | Posted on Monday, November 09, 2015 - 06:14 am: | 
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Hi mate
Been wondering if you got it sorted
Just been out to the garage to have a look at mine, and i see the fairly limited depth of the case where the securing screws fit. I had forgotten that.
Its been 18 months or so since i did mine.
I've not tried this on a casing before but you could try the method that is commonly used when removing a pilot bearing from a car flywheel. As-in; fill the hole with heavy grease and drive a good fitting bolt into the grease filled hole.
As long as you don't drive it into the crank case and destroy the thread, if it fails to loosen you have not lost anything.
if there is a locating Ferrell on any of the screw positions those are the ones i would try as they are the points it is most likely stuck on. The grease may just Oose out of the joint, but on the other hand a firm JOLT from the compression of the grease may move it enough to give you the starting point you need to work something around the casing.
I still think that Tapping a thread into the casing albeit shallow, you would get plenty of 'forcing effort' over the top of an installed grub screw in the casing thread, and would free it easy.
When you take out that central casing plug, could you not get a small three legged internal puller behind the casing with the forcing screw on the crank end (properly protected of course)?
Here's hoping mate. |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2015 - 11:16 pm: |
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Chris
Just take it slow and easy.
Once you get the cover off, clean up any galling with a fine(jeweller's) file, add some grease and re-assemble.
Z |
Footstuck
| | Posted on Friday, December 04, 2015 - 06:39 pm: |
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Hey Mate
Any Joy?? |
Panshovevo
| | Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2015 - 04:42 pm: |
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While working on the R model recently, I discovered that you can pull the ignition cover off without draining the sump.
I had recently drained the oil, checked and cleaned the sump screen, changed the filter and refilled the sump with three qts.
Then after running the engine a bit, and doing a few other odds & ends, I decided to pull the cover and check the condition of everything under it.
With the bike straight up on the lift table, I measured the level of the oil by pulling the dipstick and measuring from the top of the oil level to the o-ring on the dipstick, and from the o-ring mating surface of the case to the lift table surface, and found that the oil level was lower than the bottom of the cover.
I stuck a drain pan under it to be safe, but I don't think I got more than a drop or three out of it when the cover came off.
YMMV
Still like to hear an update on this thread. |
Jc1125r
| | Posted on Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 06:04 am: |
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Yesterday I installed a new stator and a modified rotor. I used the locating dowels to be sure that I got the timing cover aligned properly and I used some assembly lube on the end of the shafts to be sure that nothing would be seizing.
When I went to start the engine after the install it did exactly what yours did in the video.
At first it started to turn over and then stopped and then would only make the high pitched sound after that. I tried putting it in gear and turning the engine over with the rear wheel, and could not get it to budge. Finally, I removed the sealing cap to expose the crankshaft through the end of the timing cover and manually turned the crank shaft using a socket wrench. I was surprised that it turned over relatively easily. The only thing that I noticed is that some of the Lucas Pre-Assembly Lube came out when I took out the plug. After turning the engine over manually, I put the plug back in and tried the starter.
The next attempt at the starter produced a spark plug cleaning procedure with the loud pop. Then, the engine turned over and started. No strange sounds, just a normally running engine. I ran the engine long enough to get meter readings on voltage output from the new stator (Maybe 15 minutes) and all seems fine. I did stop and start the engine several times with no more drama. I was not able to ride as it was snowing, but I think that whatever the issue was that caused the electrical whine and the failure to turn over is no longer in play.
I also had disconnected the connection of the stator to the voltage regulator after manually turning the engine over and it was disconnected when I tried the starter again, and got success.
My thought is that the thick viscosity of the pre-assembly lube may have caused something like a hydro-lock at the end of the crank and when I removed the crank plug from the timing cover it released. I realize that it is a long shot idea at what the issue was, but that is all I can come up with. Some of you with more experience with this engine might has a better idea, but what ever the cause, the 1125r lives again, even is she is confined to the garage for the winter. |
Footstuck
| | Posted on Saturday, December 19, 2015 - 08:49 am: |
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interesting read Jc1125r
I can understand the original authors frustration.
Think i would have tried winding over the engine by the same method as you used if i had found myself in your situation.
I weigh 16stone+ and could not get the motor to turn on a rolling bump/Push start, thats with jumping on it at the 'critical clutch engagement point'. Not surprised he couldn't turn the motor through the transmission from the back wheel. I just looked it up and the compression ratio is 12.3:1 the compression ratio. as a wild guess i would say the cold cranking compression pressure must be around the 210-220 psi mark?
Happy days for you fella
Hope matey logs back soon with the same good news after doing as you did. |
Fred_is_not_me
| | Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 08:00 pm: |
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I have been ignoring this machine for awhile now. After feeling a bit defeated I'm coming at it again. I did call a few local shops to see what they could do for me. Don't know if they could just fix it for a couple hundred and get it over with. Which way does the crank turn for you manually? When I manually turn it to the right it sounds like gears are moving and is a lot easier to move. When I turn it to the left it is harder and doesn't sound like anything is moving.
This time around I turned it to the left a few times and attempted to start it. The barely moved and then did the squelch noise. I currently don't have any oil in the engine, but turning to the left doesn't sound like anything is compressing. Something is stopping it, though. |
Fred_is_not_me
| | Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2016 - 03:25 pm: |
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Just adding a video of what happens when manually turning the crank.
https://youtu.be/PfxwoBcpMMo |
Nuts4mc
| | Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2016 - 04:52 pm: |
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Good to see you can manually turn the crank, even better to see the starter spins it a little.,. Sounds like a weak (dis-charged) battery... Put a vom on the battery and see what it reads when you're cranking the engine. |
Footstuck
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2016 - 06:47 am: |
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Mate
Wondered if you had sold the bike, good to see you've regained interest.
I'd agree that Your battery looks to be shot.
When you hit the starter your motor was spinning albeit painfully slow.
That squeeling noise I think comes from the relay. it happens when the battery voltage is insufficient to fully hold-in the contacts within the relay, when suffering with the volt drop that 'engine Start' produces if the battery is in a poor state(discharged or shot).
12.6 volts should be the standing voltage(not sure about Li-ion), which the battery should hold after being off-charge for an hour or two.
I dont know what the cold cranking voltage should be, but someone will and it will confirm the diagnosis.
Mine is dropping to 12.3 after a day off charge and is becoming sluggish to start
unless i keep it optimized, so its getting changed in the next 2-3 weeks.
Get some Oil in it First mate, sort the battery and i recon you're good to go
I'm thinking that battery threw you off course. Keep faith in your abilities mate, or all is lost
Good luck |
Footstuck
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2016 - 06:51 am: |
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By the way, i think read somewhere that a poor battery will shorten the life of the sprag clutch on the starter gear. |
Fred_is_not_me
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 07:47 pm: |
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Okay, so update... bike is running.
I was never able to get the cover off. I tried putting oil in the bike and manually turning the crank. I purchased an 80 amp starter/charger and stuck that on the battery. It took me a few tries, but it eventually started up and ran.
I really have no idea what happened. My guess is I tightened the rotor nut super tight and had nothing oiled in the bike. I was never able to get the cover off. I let it run for about a couple minutes and didn't see, hear, or feel anything odd. I kept feeling around the stator cover to see if it was getting abnormally hot quickly and it was not.
We'll see. Next steps are to put the air box back on, etc. and take it for a ride. |
Footstuck
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2016 - 08:07 pm: |
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I recon I should have changed my battery sooner
Bought a new one yesterday and when I took the seat cowl off to fit it, the Stator plug wires were burnt.
The male and female are both cooked
Think the battery was the cause but not sure.
Only posting this here because of your starter problems.
Regards FS |
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