| Author | Message | ||
     U4euh |
Hello Buellers, I am new to the internet, as to this site. Lots of interesting topics and conversations! I have had my '03 9S since March of last year. Now I suppose there are few others on this site who aren't knowledgable to workin on their own bikes, I am one of 'em. Give me a carbbed cycle I am OK, but I am new to Buell, and Fuel Injection. My question is what basic modifications can be done in my own garage without buying new parts.( I.E.- I see that some of you have drilled your air box, some have made their own exhaust. ) That is something I am strongly considering, but I don't know if I will need to change ECM to a race model or not. I don't seem to be finding any proof that it has to be done. Any other electronic goodies that can be added on, or instead of? My 2nd problem is- every once in a while after runnin her hard and then come to idle, if I gas it, I get a backfire which almost shuts the motor down. Any clues? I would like to say that I have enjoyed reading every thing here on the site. It is finally nice to catch up with others who share the passion that I have come to love, riding a Buell. Look forward to hearing from some of you and hopefully riding together. Thank ahead, JIM | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
2nd problem is easy, your trying to ride it like a carbed bike. Be smooth and Roll the throttle on, don't just whack it open. You whack it and get more fuel then air for a second where as with a carb you get more air then fuel til the fuel catches up. | ||
| Jabrien00 |
well you can take off the snorkel right beside the air box and I heard drilling the exhaust to make sound louder and can buy the 12r airbox and k&n filter if haven't done so.. I think both mods the filter and box is about a hundred or so... the snorkel removal is free... have fun modding | ||
| U4euh |
Mikel, Thanks for the throttle info. Never thought about that. Old habits do need to broken I guess! What does removing the snorkel improve? I understand the whole heat from the cylinders thing. Seems to me removing the snorkel would allow more hot air to enter, just thinkin. JIM | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
The snorkel is there for sound requirements. Pulling it allows more airflow. The snorkel is a rubber piece the fits up the air intake on the left side of the airbox where the air flows from inside of the airscoop into the airbox. A few people have put rubber around the airbox rim to hold it tight to the frame where the snorkle was removes and atleast one person has trimmed out the snorkel to allow the full airflow yet still have the seal to keep engine air out. | ||
| M1combat |
Keep in mind he is not talking about the velocity stack that is in the center, but the snorkel that runs up through the frame. | ||
| Xb9er |
I also experienced the backfire when whacking or blipping the throttle at idle. Smooth roll on is better. Also, verify that your idle is around 1050 rpm or in the recommended range. The '04 airbox lid (#P0215.1AA), K&N filter, and snorkel removal seem to be universally accepted by XB9 owners such as myself as the top bang-for-the-buck performance mod. I think there is a real, albeit small, horsepower gain, noticeably smoother throttle response and a more "aggressive" sound with this mod. I have my doubts as to the benefit of drilling out the '04 airbox lid, but some people have done it. Mike. | ||
| Odie |
Drilling (then cutting away entirely except for the very top) the airbox made a vast difference on my 12S.......Odie | ||
| Odie |
Also on 2 friends 12R's..... | ||
| Daves |
XB12 air box 34.95 K+N filter 64.95 Total 99.90 Badweb price 89.91 I have these items in stock. Ride to the edge! Dave 1-866-757-1651 daves@h-dappleton.com | ||
| Reepicheep |
Anybody check to see if the K&N filter is really much better then the stock one? Neither looks particularly restrictive, and the K&N is a little pricey. | ||
| Glitch |
I was wondering that myself. But, the main advantage I see with the K&N is the fact that you can clean it. Unless you move the breathers the filter gets pretty ugly fast. I've cleaned mine twice since I bought the bike. It was nasty, and made a noticeable change in the bikes performance. So even though it may not flow better, you won't have to buy a filter every time it gets ugly. (Message edited by glitch on October 01, 2004) | ||
| Midknyte |
On removing the snorkel - you need to take the air scoop off first. Then fold the top of the snorkel in on itself lengthwise and pull it down thru the frame (you can't just yank it out from the top). Then put your scoop back on. I went with the performance plugs too. Just seemed right to do. Part No.s in my profile. | ||
| U4euh |
Boy I am all giddy to go out and work on the bike! You guys got me excited about gettin some sound and performance. Dave as soon as I can I will be ordering those parts from you. I'll be going out to take the snorkel off tonight, and maybe cut it. Gotta look in the garage and see if I have any thing to seal the box with. What if a person was remove the top half of the air box. Then cut a piece of Lexan to cover up the air filter opening. Maybe a little wider so as to have a place to mount it to the base with some type of strap or bolts.(Imagine that on the cityX with a big ol light in there, Jhonny law wouldn't care to much for the blue glow!!LOL) Any body running modified exhaust withOUT upgrading to the race ECM? | ||
| Bomber |
just a data point -- K&N filters are touted to flow a great deal more air (when clean and oiled) -- I've seen tests performed by a couple of hot rod car mags that back the claims up . . . . they are pricey, compared to disposables, but cheap if you factor in the re-usability, and certainly a cheap HP gain -- I run em in everything I own, and have for, er, well, let's just say a while now ;-} | ||
| Odie |
U4euh, ping me on my profile address....Odie | ||
| Reepicheep |
U4euh...  I was thinking the *exact* same thing. I am currently thinking through the best way to reproduce the nipple in the right place, and most effective tiedowns. I don't think its necessary to drop bolts through the airbox base. Then I gotta get the lighting in there. I have some cool plans for that as well, involving a microcontroller, resting versus exerted heartrates, and simulated spark plug firing. First things first though, so the plexi cover would be step one. | ||
| Darthane |
U4euh, Several people have done just that, both with and without the 12airbox nipple. It is a considerable improvement over the stock airbox, though it doesn't seem to be much different than simply drilling lots of holes in the tope and/or cutting out chunks of it. Less to mess with, too. Have fun! | ||
| Bomber |
simulated spark plug firing like the old oldsmobiles! very slick -- what's old is new again! | ||
| Reepicheep |
I want the microcontroller so I can program a fake blue "heartbeat" that runs 24x7. I will bug Henrik (or somebody else) to try and get me some tables or equations for resting heartrates versus fully exerted heartrates, how they climb and fall versus effort, the delay and rate of change, the works. Then the microcontroller will monitor revs, and adjust the fake "heartbeat" the way a horse or human heart would really react. Some bright blue LED's buried *deep* in the translucid bodywork somewhere. Bike sitting in the parking lot at night? Faint slow beat. Starting a run across town? Moderate climb, never getting that high, but awake. Hard run through the twisties? Fast beat, and even after the bike stops it keeps going fast for a while. It would just be fun. Give the bike a little more personality, and give a nice surreal twist to random spectators day... kind of a "*&^$^@, did I just see that bike breathing?" kind of thing. The fake spark firing would appear to come from inside the airfilter, which would be visible through the airbox. It would look like fire coming out the velocit stack (hopefully). Again, just something fun to entertain fellow gearheads that might appreciate it. I would keep it all sophisticated, but relatively subtle. Good winter projects | ||
| U4euh |
Reepicheep, after I got off line I went out and cut the lexan. Three inch bolts on the upper right base plate and the lower left will work, You'll have to put two nuts on the bottom to tighten up and makem' stay. I havn't yet decided what to use as tie downs. In your case it might be visible, so they must look half descent. If your interested drop me a line and I'll try to get a picture of it. Jim | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm thinking screws into the top of the lexan, and safety wire going around them and around the tabs for the traditional airbox hold downs. Maybe even through holes in the lexan, that might be better. If I could find some of those super high quality rubber bands (actually silicone I suspect), I would use something like that diagionally across the top of the lexan with notches to hold them and it in place. It would look cool and work well... I think. I will probably run the stock filter until it starts to get dirty, then just get the race one. I would rather save my pennies for a drummer in the meantime. | ||
| M1combat |
I think instead of using clear lexan it would be better to use a chopped up cap from a 12 airbox. Just cut everything you don't need only leaving the part that seals to the filter. If you have a 12 and still have the exhaust valve controller and associated foam you could leave a little more material on the chopped down portion of the airbox cover. On my 12 it seem that the controller stuffed foam fits tight enough that it should seal the filter all by itself once the cover is put back on. |
